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Those big labels from the fly line case indeed get worn off very quickly.
Here’s how I do it:
* cut a SMALL piece (size quarter of a stamp size) from Scotch Magic Tape
* write down the type & line weight (e.g. WF3) using a water resistant fine tipped pen
* stick it onthe BACK SIDE of the spool.This way the label doesn’t get worn out and I can always see what line is on which spool.
Jay
Balloons are almost unbeatable. They are very hard to break, can survive spey casts, can be resized according to conditions, can float heavy split shot or multiple fly rigs, can be seen from a distance, can’t swamp, and cost next to nothing.
I’m sure balloons are effective but I have a hard time seeing balloons as a part of fly fishing.
Jay
Yeah, making widgets out of window parts of a site is brilliant indeed! This makes sure you’re not annoyed by ads and other screen area you’re not interested in.
I still use Tiger on my new Macbook Pro. I intend to upgrade to Leopard within 2 months.
Jay
Ian, SOME reels in the high end ARE overpriced. You just gave the correct example by mentioning reels that fail. I won’t call names but also in the high price range many reels just aren’t worth their high price.
Not to mention that reels that are made in the far east fetching similar prices as reels that are made in the US just doesn’t feel right. I’m not talking about craftsmenship but the factor labor cost in the product price should be in balance.
If we are talking about purely what a reel is supposed to do: hold line and fight fish, I’m sure that you will probably land many bones on a simple click and pawl reel using rim braking. That’s how fishermen stopped these fish long time ago. But again, we evolved to cork drags and that’s fine.
High price of reels (or any other gear) is also the result of the call for service. If an item fails we want them to be replaced. This costs money and it’s simply transferred by the manufacturers to the buyer.
I doubt most people consider getting gear as investing for a long term use. Today we mostly buy something to serve us for a period and after a while we get a new item that’s the hot thing to get. I rarely see anyone who still uses a rod or reel that’s older than 10 years. So where’s the supposedly LIFETIME ownership?…
What I’m saying is that for some items the price & quality we see these days are mismatched.
However, liking a nice piece of gear and buying them is fine too…
Jay
I think the Sharskin on the line probably will open the skin on the fore finger when fishing stripping line with streamers?
Jay
By the way, I just love the Orvis Superfine grips (cork grip tapered down to the blank, reel rings) ! ;D
Here’s the same grip from a 1968 Superfine (the bamboo rod series was named this way) bamboo rod series.
Wow the fall colors in the bright autumn sun is just spectacular!
I was in the Alberta rockies during end of september once. Indian summer and the colors were just mindblowing…
Jay
The superfine is even worse with the bulky fles or nymph rigs than rods of comperable line weight. I had a 3 weight superfine and though I loved it would not bother bring it for any kind of indy nymphing, streamer fishing or terrestrial fishing.
I disagree.
I’ve tossed everything from dries, streamers to heavy nymph rigs with the Superfine Tippet (7,5ft #3). No problem at all.
The 7,5ft length is superb for fishing from small mountain streams to medium sized rivers.
Big fish is no problem either. You can put a lot of pressure on the rod.Both rods are Orvis Tippets. The black hardware is a rod from (I think) around 2002 and the bright hardware rod is a rod from 1978(!). I sold the new one to my buddy and kept the older version.
Thanks Zach.
The Hardy Perfect is the workhorse of the classic Hardys I think. Too bad the LHW versions of the Perfect are much rarer that the common RHW. The LHW versions tend to be quite expensive.
If you don’t mind winding the ‘wrong way’ you can save quite some bucks.Jay
Well I’m a sucker for nice gear too!
But it’s also a weird idea to ‘be ready for things to come’ if you do most of your fishing in TN?
I’d like to do bonefishing too but I see no point in getting a Xi2 with a Nautilus if no near future I’m heading for Christmas Island. But I do have a 8 weight rig that is still a fine rig for bonefish yet costs just a about 40% of the price of the high end stuff.I do have all the finest gear I need for trout fishing which is just about 99% of the fishing I do.
About Orvis:
I love Orvis for their history as well as their nice rods of the past. I’m not excited about heir rods from the past 15 years, but their Superfine rods (which are slow rods considred today) are fabulous when the conditions are matched. I have this 7.5ft #3 rod (Tippet) that kicks butt with heavy nymph rigs on streams and medium sized rivers.But if you just love high end gear (and have the money), just go for it! ;D
Jay
Why not go for a rod with a lower price tag?
Since you want a rod that is easy on traveling, why not try those 5-9(?) rods made by dependable companies like Orvis, Cabela’s or LL Bean? These multi piece rods aren’t the fastest rods, yet with current technology aren’t sloppy joes either. Their service is second to none which is always nice to know.I’m sure you will enjoy a ton of fun with these rods fitting in your suitcase.
In the mean time you might want to improve your casting. Once your casting is better, you’ll probably know which type of action (super fast – fast- medium – slow) you like best. I’d say then go for a nice high end rod which fits your style.Too many times I’ve seen people using a rod which doesn’t fit someone’s casting & fishing style, yet they keep fishing it because ‘it’s such a high end rod’…
About fishing with nymphs on slower rods:
I fish 95% of the time using (heavily weighted) nymphs. It’s not a matter of the faster action of the rod turning of the rig but to keep the tension of the line when casting. You don’t need a lot of speed in the casting either, just make sure the rod is loaded when casting forwards by keeping the tension (= no slack) on.
I fish both bamboo & graphite rods with different actions.Jay
Well not sure if my contribution adds to anything but here goes…
Spencer’s tip about trying out a more affordable rod (yet still very good rods!) is probably what I would do. Most high end rods are fantastic casting & fishing rods, yet the differences are barely noticable to novices. If one gets more experienced, these small differences will be the key points which one will prefer one rod to the other.
I personally bought the Z-axis because I didn’t like the XP’s stiff all-the-way action. Wonderful casting rods though! Yet only when casting longer lines (say upwards of 25-30 feet). Overlining with one weight also helped to smooth out the rod when casting shorter.
But again, if you got enough bucks, just get them all! 😀
Just my 2cts…
Jay
Spencer….here’s some G2s for $130.
http://www.georgia-outdoors.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63541&referrerid=7160
Link not working?
If I remember correctly the G1 was a 4-5 reel while the G2 was a 5-6 reel.
You could also look for a classic reel. I often use a Hardy Perfect on my Scott G2 905.
You could look for a Pfleugler 1492 or a Young Pridex.
Jay
