nemoblackdog
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nemoblackdog
MemberFrankly, no one makes anything that would resemble my ideal vise.
I like the sturdiness and hand access afforded by a simple design like the HMH Spartan. It’s great to rest the palm of my left (material) hand on the vice while doing fine detailed manipulations with my fingers. I especially like it adjusted to a steeper-than-45-degree angle – I find that most comfortable of all.
That said, I also like and use the “true” (in-line) rotary functions found on Renzetti-style vises. But on those vises, hand access stinks. Oh – and it’s not because I’ve not put enough time into adapting. My main vise *is* a Renzetti Traveler.
So, what I want is a true-rotary vise with the solidity and hand-clearance room / angles found in the better “non-true” rotaries. The “V” would be quite large and deep – 2-3x deeper than anything I’ve seen out there.
As far as I can tell, nobody does this. Obviously, it’s possible, but I suspect it’d be relatively expensive because to combine those two characteristics, you’d need to machine some pretty stout parts so things aren’t too wobbly.
nemoblackdog
MemberOne still shot (particularly with on-camera flash) isn’t often very flattering.
Check out this short video from over on Midcurrent:
http://www.midcurrent.com/video/clips/wff_7.aspx
Gierach looks and sounds quite “with it” there.
nemoblackdog
Memberbraid for tippet? you gotta be kidding me?
No doubt – it’s very real:
http://www.rioproducts.com/product.php?recKey=137
If you’re in the camp that visibility of tippet is not nearly as big a deal as it’s often made out to be, then this may be a product for you.
nemoblackdog
MemberBetter on the hand then braid though I bet..
Extreme Tippet from Rio is braid.
nemoblackdog
MemberNo doubt – low light situations are the bane of P&S cameras.
nemoblackdog
MemberI think that this aspect of photography is exciting and may ultimately re-define what a “normal” photograph will appear to be.
nemoblackdog
MemberGreat unit.
nemoblackdog
MemberThis has been a very interesting conversation!
At the risk of thinking way out of the (light) box – I’m wondering what this type of shot would look like employing HDR techniques?
nemoblackdog
MemberOn the advice of a buddy, I did some casual poking around.
nemoblackdog
MemberI’m not sure of what the real requirements are here – do you need/want a strobed (cold) lighting setup or can you manage to go with a hot light setup (continuous tungsten or fluorescent) lighting?
I’ve not used these, but I have heard there are some pretty neat fluorescent systems out there that have near daylight (5500K) balance and don’t have the brutal heat of traditional hot setups.
nemoblackdog
MemberI know this is not exactly what you’re after here since your main gear is a DSLR, but thought I’d mention that this is one area where many small point-and-shoot digital cameras actually offer some advantages over DSLRs – at least when using normal lenses and techniques.
Many P&S cameras can focus down to 1cm from the subject – yes – the lens is 1cm from the subject!
nemoblackdog
MemberFor natural materials like hackle and other feathers, fur, hair, etc… unsweetened Kool-Aid works really well.
nemoblackdog
MemberI’m also a Gudebrod 10/0 fan, and have a few spools left that should keep me going quite a while.
nemoblackdog
MemberSome (but not all) kids/teens find activities that are real passions for them.
nemoblackdog
MemberFor those interested, check where your wading jackets , vests and wading boots are made – you may well find them to be made on continents other than where the waders of the same brand are made.
nemoblackdog
MemberSure I “hand tie” leaders!
nemoblackdog
MemberI use markers a lot – to color tying thread, dubbing, rubber legs, wire, yarn, etc…
nemoblackdog
MemberPlaying with my W10, If I use ISO 400, no flash,
nemoblackdog
MemberThose high ISO shots are simply amazing (25600!)
nemoblackdog
MemberLow-light situations will likely always be a challenge with small P&S cameras.
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