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Ty for the link Simon
I use a lot foam patterns as suspenders combined with sink tips/full sink lines
Surprise Surprise:))- I,m going to come at this from a different perspective..
Just as there are many levels of guides- there are also many levels of clients:)))
Clients choose guides based on reputation etc etc – guides get the clients they get!!!!
A good guide will- given no other info- size up a client on meeting them and some cursory chat,
I am a 52 year-old native Arkansan, and have lived most of my life in Northwest Arkansas but also Toledo and Dallas. Have traveled a fair amount–about 30 states. Drove to and from Alaska in 2004. Fished the triangle–interior around Fairbanks, the Russian and Quartz Creek near the Kenai, and the Clearwater River at Delta Junction. Have never fished in Montana, but have fished Wyoming and Colorado quite a bit.
Formally educated in vocal and choral performance (U of A) and a graduate degree in theology and biblical languages (Dallas Theological Seminary). For fun, this year I have been teaching a few students beginning biblical Hebrew. However, I have always enjoyed and been draw to the outdoors as well. Started fly fishing in the 70s with my dad’s J.C. Higgins fiberglass rod and popping bugs.
In 1996 I built my first drift boat and started a full-time drift boat fly-fishing guide service on the White River tailwaters. Been doing some outdoor writing and photography for the Morning News of Northwest Arkansas since 2000.
My interests are: photography (first camera was a Brownie Bullet; 1st 35mm a Konica FD and Pentax K; presently use Canon bodies and lenses); computing (first computer a Timex Sinclair with 2K of Ram, BD=before DOS; presently use a Dell XPS with Windows Vista and older IBM thinkpad); building drift boats; teaching Bible studies (beginning an extended exposition in January through the Bible) and of course fly-fishing. Want to build a wooden teardrop trailer to travel with my wife some before we are too old to climb in and out of it–but at the present ratio or irons to the fire, it’s not happening.
My wife Sharon and I have been married 30 years. One grown son (more or less) and a stout Yorkshire terrier, useless cat and Betta fish.
Glad to get acquainted with so many talented flyfishers across the globe.
P.S. Also glad to see several of you involved professionally in conservation organizations and efforts.
Just saw your note Matt. It was great taking you and Brent out on the tailwaters and hope to see you on the river in your newly refurbished Hyde soon. We’ll be at Rim September 15th floating with another wooden boat from Springfield and perhaps Drifter (here on this board) if he can make it. Would love to see you too if you could find the time.
Zach-
some of the edge effects/frame effects in Tibor’s work may be polaroid neg. ( they made a 180 that was basically with a couple of tweaks a small view camera that used polaroid film that made a pos and neg at the same time) or PS versions thereof. Robert Frank really exploited that process way back, using the
Patrick, really enjoyed the photos and the essay. Thanks for the moon shots too. At least someone got some eclipse shots! love the Aurora photo.
Scott
Highlander, hopper fishing is in full swing at the moment.
Generation pattern has been:
Norfork – every afternoon and evening both units running. Heavy wade pressure on Norfork tailwater anytime it shuts down and the Bull Shoals powerhouse is running continually.
Bull Shoals – some around the clock generation with low flows through the night, but starting to see some 10-12 hour shut down at night. Still running very heavy in the afternoons and evenings and will until hot weather subsides.
By mid-October generation lessens considerably typically.
Happy fishing,
ScottVery nice, gentlemen!
I missed the total eclipse early this morning (Tuesday). Did not find out about it til after the fact. Would have been fun to get some shots.
Got me curious and looked up an older book by Cecil Heacox, “The Compleat Brown Trout.” It has a discussion on this on pp. 29ff.
He says in short, “the brown trout does not have a standardized appearance” and “Throughout its range, original and adopted, a brown’s color varies in different locales and habitats; sometimes from stream to stream and, not infrequently, in the same stream.” He then alludes to the camouflaging ability Gary mentioned above.
One thing of note is he says a touch of color in the adipose fin is a fairly reliable indicator for identifying wild browns.
Beautiful fish they are.
Scott
Cameron I am a little surprised that more people have not made comments on some of your pictures.
JoelI know I have enjoyed the thread and the photos. Been a little busy to follow posts in detail here recently. But thanks for sharing the trip, guys. I am jealous as I haven’t been out west in 3 years. Cameron, you always makes me hungry for civilized adventure.
Hey Carter. A “je ne sais quoi” shot. I like it. Where was this taken?
Need a Minnesota moon shot, Tim.
I live in Central Virginia, Orange County, we have been put on water restrictions. We need rain! Some of the best small mouth water is a trickle now!
I’m not much interested in the title of Most Impressive Young’un….
I’m an infrequent visitor to this page, and the various reactions to my post yesterday on this thread explain to me why that’s so. The original thread asked if there were any Landon fans. The thread had languished for 12 hours without a single response. So I jumped in, and in so doing, I paid Zach a backhanded compliment. Too bad he can’t read it that way.
As for Landon’s “marketing” — interesting choice of words — he’s a big fish specialist. And yes, he explains why a 15-inch brookie is a trophy, too. Landon’s a fine young man with a bright future and I’m more than happy to sing his praises.
I’m also an admirer of Kelly Galloup, and own his book and CD.
And Mr. Pommer, what, may I ask, is your point? Yawn to you too.
Realize that I’m late to the discussion, but here’s some info from Cabela’s. If there’s more to say on the subject, I can’t imagine what it is:
Seeing Through The Confusion – Sunglasses Buyer’s Guide
By: Frank Ross
Outdoor sportsmen have a lot to worry about like what bait to use, or what tactic to use in a particular situation, but your eyes shouldn’t be one of the things on your string of worry beads. Yet, eye protection is one of the most important things you consider when leaving the comfort of hearth and home for the harsh environment of field and stream.
Selecting a pair of sunglasses can be confusing.Eyestrain is always a factor when I get a headache, and the glare off of water is a situation that will set off a dash for ibuprofen faster than any other factor. Unfortunately, having the right pair of sunglasses is not as simple as it might appear and one pair doesn’t meet all needs. With all of the brands, styles and lens configurations, selecting a pair of sunglasses can be confusing.
Many people pay more attention to how they look in a pair of glasses than form and function, and consequently they are only happy with their choice when they look in a mirror. If you want performance as well as good looks, consider these factors before selecting your next pair – shade, tint, polarization and fit.
Shade
Choose a lens shade relative to intended use. Generally speaking, in an around town, a light to medium tint is adequate. While on the water, near white sand or snow-covered fields a darker shade provides more comfort. Ultimately, the amount of light a lens should transmit relates to the brightness of the environment and individual comfort. Individual is the key element to that statement, since we all have varying degrees of sensitivity to light.Bright flashes off of water, snow or shiny surfaces subject the eyes to 10 to 12 times more light than required to see, which can be painful and dangerously distracting. To be certain that sunglasses will be adequate for flocking glare, try them on in front of a mirror. If you can see your eyes, they are probably not dark enough to block glare. For comfortable vision on bright, sunny days, sunglasses should block 75 to 90% of visible light. Lens tinting should be uniform, not darker or lighter in spots. With gradient lenses, the tint should lighten gradually and uniformly throughout the transition area. The advances of technology have increased the number of options available to you in terms of the degree of shading as well as the style.
* Solid tinted lenses are evenly tinted across the entire lens to cut glare from all directions.
* Gradient tinted lenses are darker at the top and lighter at the bottom to cut overhead glare and provide clearer vision straight ahead and when looking down.
* Double gradient lenses are darker at the top and bottom and lighter in the center to cut overhead and reflected glare from the ground and provides clearer vision and straight ahead.
* Mirror-coated lenses reflect light across a wide spectrum including the infrared or heat rays (IR) and may tend to be somewhat cooler to wear in both a physical and aesthetic valuation. Mirror coated lenses have a thin layer of vaporized metal that is bonded to the lens’ surface in a vacuum chamber. Metalized coatings, which often use chromium, are less durable than high-performance dielectric coatings that use titanium or quartz. Metal or mirror coatings tend to darken sunglasses uniformly.
* Photochromic lenses appear lighter indoors since they darken in sunlight and fade indoors to provide comfort according to the brightness of the environment. This is a convenient option for prescription wearers, however, in my opinion, they do not darken enough to be acceptable in extreme glare. The amount of light a photochromic lenses transmits varies greatly with each manufacturer and even the darkest lenses aren’t adequate for bright or reflected light. Prescription lens wearers should consider options such as Cocoon or Fitover glasses that they can wear over their existing glasses.
For fishermen, polarizing sunglasses are a must.
Tint
Under various conditions, lens tint can be a major factor, to both function as well as comfort; and for fishermen, polarizing lenses are a must. When selecting a tint, keep in mind that some colors are not recommended for use while driving due to the problems they can cause in recognizing the color of traffic signals. If you are uncertain that the sunglasses you intend to purchase meet traffic signal recognition requirements, read the labeling to determine if there are statements recommending that the sunglasses should not be worn while driving. Here is a breakdown of the most popular tints and situations where they perform best.* Gray is a popular neutral color that allows true color perception. Gray is a good color for general purpose tinting but it does not enhance contrast. Gray is a good tint for golf, cycling or running.
* Green provides true color perception and is a popular neutral, general-purpose color tint. Generally, green provides a fair degree of contrast in low light and reduces eyestrain in bright light.
* Brown is a better tent in hazy sun. Brown enhances contrast and is a good tint for high-glare sports, such as skiing, fishing or sailing.
* Amber blocks blue light and brightens cloudy, hazy or foggy days. It makes everything look yellow or orange and provides excellent contrast, minimizes eyestrain. Amber is a good tint for fishermen, pilots and skiers.
* Yellow provides enhanced depth perception and contrast in low light. Yellow is also a good tint for trap shooting or sporting clays. Yellow intensifies objects against a blue background and really makes the clays stand out.
* Vermilion is an excellent tent for increased depth perception in low light. Vermilion increases contrasts of objects against blue and green backgrounds.
As the name implies, sunglasses are intended to be worn in the sun, and darkly tinted glasses should never be worn while driving at night. So-called night driving glasses are generally amber tinted eyewear meant to reduce the glare of oncoming headlights. While they may make the driver feel more comfortable, they reduce visibility of the darker portions of the roadway and are not safe, especially in areas where deer often dart from the roadside into oncoming traffic.
The degree to which sunglasses will block UV rays varies.Lens Quality
Sunglasses are intended for use in the attenuation of bright sunlight. They are generally worn while driving during daylight hours or while participating in general recreational activities. The degree to which sunglasses will attenuate sunlight and block UV rays varies with the physical, chemical and optical properties of the lenses.When selecting sunglasses, it is a good idea to test the optical quality of the lens by putting on the sunglasses and viewing a vertical edge or line. Move your head back and forth allowing your eyes to sweep across the lens. If you detect any wiggle in the line, then the lens may have an optical defect and you should choose another pair.
Sunglass lens materials are designed and manufactured to meet the requirements of ANSI standards for UV absorption, flammability and impact resistance. Glass lenses are the most optically stable and scratch resistant lens material but they are also heavier and more expensive. Conversely, plastic lenses are the lightest and least expensive, and some are coated to increase scratch resistance. Polycarbonate lenses are the most impact resistant. Laminated lenses are combinations of glass and/or plastic to achieve a specific performance.
Sunglasses are required by federal law to be impact resistant, but they are not shatterproof nor are they an unbreakable shield to be used for impact protective eyewear used in high-risk impact sports or for industrial safety uses. Also, sunglasses are not intended for use as protection against artificial light sources, such as sun lamps, lasers, etc. Never stare directly at the sun or at an eclipse with or without sunglasses.
Frames
Frames should fit comfortably and allow the lens to be positioned directly in front of the eye. For fishermen, the wraparound style is popular and serves a function beyond style. Wraparound frames, and frames that have inset lenses in the side, prevent eyestrain from spurious light entering from the side of your glasses. In addition to the wraparound protection from extraneous light, the curved lenses sheet off moisture during brisk boat rides and although not safety glasses, they can be effective for deflecting lightweight airborne debris such as dirt and flotsam that builds up on a boat deck.UV Protection
Ultraviolet Radiation (UV) consists of the short, invisible rays emitted by the sun, that travel to the earth’s surface. These rays measure between 200 and 380 nanometers or one millionth of a millimeter. There are three bands of UV, (UVA, UVB and UVC) but only two are of any concern, UVA and UVB. UVC rays are the most detrimental, but UVC rays are absorbed by ozone in the upper atmosphere and do not reach the earth’s surface. Therefore, UVC rays are not relevant to sunglass performance or of any current health concern.UVA rays measure from 315 to 380nm and are responsible for your tan.
Polarized lenses enable you to see beneath the surface of clean water as well as reducing glare.UVB rays are responsible for damage to tissues such as corneas and skin when you forget to use a sunscreen. Grass or dark objects reflect about 1% of UV rays, sand, 10%, water, 20% and snow a whopping 80%. Environmental UVB in concert with cold wind and micro crystals of snow has the potential to cause photokeratitis, (inflammation of the cornea) commonly know as snow blindness. While a rare occurrence, it is quite painful, but temporary disorder of the cornea. Generally, Photokeratitis symptoms will dissipate within 12 to 48 hours.
Medical experts generally agree that there are many factors that might be associated with the gradual clouding of the lens of the eye know as cataracts. Although not all scientists agree, there is some research that suggests an association with daily exposure to UVB in very bright sunlight over a period of many years. Other factors that are thought to have a causal relationship with cataracts are age, gender, ethnic origin, genetic factors, smoking, nutrition, use of alcohol, microwave radiation, and diabetes. UVA rays are mostly absorbed within the lens of the human eye. While there are no documented disorders of the human eye from UVA, it remains a much studied and debated topic.
As a result, sunglass standards place limits on UVB and UVA for sunglass lenses. Pick glasses with the highest rating possible for UV blocking capabilities, 100%, to be sure that you are adequately protected.
Polarization
Conventional sunglasses reduce visible light but provide little protection against glare. Polarizing lenses selectively absorb horizontally reflected glare from surfaces such as water or roadways to improve visibility. Polarization has nothing to do with blocking UV rays, but most polarized lenses contain UV-blocking chemicals. Because they cut glare, polarizing lenses are very popular with fishermen. Polarized lenses enable you to see beneath the surface of clean water as well as reducing glare. Polarized filters are added to glass lenses by a special lamination process. Hard-resin and high-index plastic lenses are polarized during molding and on polycarbonate lenses, polarizing films are added while they are still in liquid form.Care
Once you’ve selected a pair of sunglasses, some simple steps will help you care for them properly. When your glasses become soiled and dusty, wash off loose grime with water before using a clean, soft cloth to wipe the lenses. When you wipe dust off with a cloth, or as is often the case, a shirttail, particles can scratch the lenses; and everyone knows how much strain scratches create. The optimal choice would be to use lens-cleaning liquid, but failing that, clear water is better than nothing.Keep your glasses in a protective case or bag and don’t leave them on the dash of your vehicle in the summer heat when you go inside or you’ll find them turned into a pretzel and be shopping again. Worse yet, you could have to spend a day on the water without protection.
I’m with you, marktronic. I bought the DVD directly from Landon after he spoke to our trout club in Centennial. He made such a fine impression that I booked a Dream Stream trip with him in October, when the browns will be running out of the reservoir. I’ve been fishing much longer than Landon’s been alive, but I know for sure that I can learn from him. On his video, he dances across those river rocks as if he’s Baryshnikov, for godsakes.
With all due respect to the proprietor of this board, I think Landon is the most impressive youngster in fly fishing at this moment. And his book is filled with detailed information, much of which I haven’t seen before.
I’m counting down the days until our trip. First guided trip of my life.
Awesome shot Bob.
Enjoying the photos and details. Thanks John.
Didn’t know where this would go, but getting great contributions. Anyone else have one?
Scott
We sell Lamson Reels at the shop I work in. Man, they are machined like Swiss Watches! The new “ALOX” coatings they are using are incredibly tough and durable! I’m liking them more and more. (I used to think they were a little too “high-tech” looking.)
Matt:
Shame on Dave’s Boats! I talked to Dave afterwards and he said he was needing to find someone in the area to do fiberglass repair. So it looks like he would not have been any help to you anyway, but a return call to you would have been courtesy.
Glad it worked out well for you. Enjoy it on the river. Not a bad investment, drift boat bro!
Scott
