Michael Phillippe
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Steve – the boiling water and soap did it! I had used that technique on both the grips and the new tip guards but just never thought of boiling the oar stops. Thanks!
Zach is right – you get what you pay for. I fished a guide’s Scott S4S in NOLA last year and liked it so much I came home and bought an S4 for trout. One of the best rods I’ve ever fished.
Simms waders? My wife buys me a new pair for my birthday every 5 years. I average between 75-100 days in them each year. And, I’m not easy on them. I take naps in prickly pear, slide down banks on my butt (a habit of older anglers). My last pair was repaired by Simms and returned in perfect (well, almost) condition with 72 holes repaired.
My favorite pair of wading boots – no more than 10 years old – is a pair of Weinbrenner Gary Borger felt soles (made in the USA). I leave them in Montana with my son now so as to avoid transporting anything back East, but for wading the slick western rivers they can’t be beat.
Matt, Just caught up to this. Try this site for help with the red-green issue:
I think it must be the carpeted bunk. The only place the bait touches the trailer is there and the rear roller.
BTW, nice boat Zach! Probably a better boat for the upper Delaware than my 350 lb drift boat.
So, I wore my new Costa 580G Silver Mirrors for a couple weeks in Montana. Both bright and overcast/rainy conditions. These are really fantastic glasses. Expensive but certainly the best I’ve ever owned.
Steve, I looked at the oar rights a couple times. Mentioned them to my son (the MT fishing guide) last week and he mumbled something like “learn to row” and “they have no place on a wood driftboat.” Obviously, I’m now shamed into trying to get my rubber stops back on.
I have a pair of Gull wood oars which I just refinished and rewrapped. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to get the rubber oar lock stops back on the new wrap? Unfortunately I think the answer is to find someone half my age and with twice the hand strength.
I agree with Steve on the Alaska versus YNP attitude. In Alaska, I seem to simply be “bear aware” and just give them their space. In YNP, a grizzly at half a mile makes my hair stand on end. I also agree that it’s probably the food availability. Some of the guides in Alaska told me that bears don’t seem to be so docile before the salmon run.
And, bears definitely have personalities. Check out the different expressions on these guys. Both were about 60-70 feet away as we floated (quickly!) by.
You should check the TSA web site for “approved” carry on items. They specifically state that expensive reels should be in your carry on bag.
Prices are outrageous to Montana was well this summer. If you have time and energy, consider flying to Salt Lake City and driving. Besides, rental car deals are available there, whereas a sub-compact will cost you $300 per week in Missoula.
And Joe, since you haven’t felt the need to cover for the past few decades, may we be so bold as to suggest a check up with your local dermatologist.
Allan, I really like your set up. It creates less bend in the rod than my current design.
I actually headed for Montana tomorrow for several days of spring fishing, but I will post some pictures when I return.
Did you make the rod butt holder from mahogany?
BTW nice fillets on the dry boxes. I screwed mine up the first time and when I tried to redo them, the epoxy had stained the original area so they aren’t as nice as yours.
Allan – I’ve been experimenting with rod holders since I built the boat. This year I’ve taken 2 inch flexible black pipe, wrapped it in black oar wrapping rope and mounted in just under the aft gunnel. It kind if matches. I’m working on some wood holders for the rod butts. The curve in the rods sometimes bothers me, but I guess they are actually made to bend aren’t they?!
Allan – Great green! I really like the matching rope for the seats. Must have been fun trying to dye it to that color.
I really like your interior layout. I used Jason’s basic Guide interior so I have the rear casting brace that extends all the way across and limits your ability to move around the boat. It also makes shipping the oars difficult. If I had it to do over, I’d build a Kingfisher with the cobra casting brace. Rod storage and ability to change places in the boat. What do you do for rod storage?
Matt – Build a boat when you get old. Enjoy the cool kids first!
I hate to admit it, but I caught more fish before I built the boat. I didn’t spend time messing with the boat and floating over the fish. BUT, I have more fun and I certainly look cooler now….
Zach, My son put the vacuum bag shoe on his wooden boat for the reason you state. And I do have that concern for low water times. I haven’t seen his yet, but I will when I’m in Missoula fishing next week. I’ll let you know after I see it.
BTW, Zach, you should look at Jason Cajune’s skiff designs. He had a hull design that draws very little water, has good rod storage, and three can easily fish from it if you can’t get out to wade.
Peter – When I launched my boat the bottom was 10% graphite in epoxy. That’s a cheap and lighter alternative. My buddy built the MBB skiff and had Linex applied to the bottom. After 5 seasons chines were worn and my buddy’s looked new. Last September I coughed up the $500 (like another 500 on top of $6500 I already have in it in materials alone is a big deal!) and had the Linex applied. It added about 60 lbs we think. Anyway the boat actually handles differently – a little better track perhaps. It does draw another inch of water also which can mean more dragging on the Delaware in low water. But it should be maintenance free now – unless I hit a BIG rock.
