Michael Phillippe
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I would second Craig’s suggestion of a skiff design. If you aren’t doing bigger water a skiff with an open floor design is great. We use a Montana Boat Builders skiff on the Delaware with two or three anglers and it’s great. It draws less water than a drift boat and with the open design rod storage along the side decks is easy.
Not sure how far you are into the process, but you should read Fletcher’s “Drift Boats and River Dories.” Also hang out on the drift boat builders forum at http://www.montana-riverboats.com/phorum/list.php?3. Other important sites are http://www.montana-riverboats.com and Jason Cajune’s Montana Boat Builders (http://cajuneboats.squarespace.com/).
Hull design is the most complex question in the process. Guys spend years experimenting with dimensions and most especially rocker. depending on the what you’re going to carry, where you’ll use the boat and how you will out of it. Keep in mind that traditional drift boats were never designed to have a fisherman in front and another in back. Hull designs were based on having two people side-by-side on a bench seat in front. So mind your rocker if you plan to use it differently.
You didn’t say whether you were going framed or stitch-and-glue? Definitely you’ll want an adjustable rower seat, plus a couple of different oar lock positions and adjustable foot brace. Otherwise you’ll end up being a rowing slave for your buddies.
Anchor set ups are all over the place. Stay away from the Clackacraft type floor stomp releases in a wooden boat. And start thinking about rod storage now. That was my mistake. I’ve been trying to resolve it for five years!
Here are a couple pics of my boat. It’s a Montana Boat Builder’s 16′ Guide design by Jason Cajune. I built it in 06. Note the modification of rear area to accommodate my Lab who can’t row but is a great companion.
Well, I just can’t help but weigh in on this one! First let me admit my prejudice> I built and row a wooden boat. It’s a stitch-and-glue boat designed by Montana Boat Builders. Stitch-and-glue are the most beautiful of all driftboats – and actually easier to build than framed boats (you don’t all those double-mitre cuts!). They do take some maintenance but it’s like tying flies. What else are you doing in the winter (unless you own a place where bone fish live)?
I’ve know Boulder Boat works for a long time. They are good guys and good fishermen. You can see it in the set up of the boats. I’ve been trying to emulate their rod holders in my boat for 5 years. You can certainly guide out of them. I know three guides in Missoula who’s been guiding out of them for about 4 seasons – doing probably 130 days per year each. Their models had the wood trim and looked kind of nice – for a flat bottom canoe. I also know a bunch of guides in Missoula who row framed wood boats and take them to some very hairy places.
In my opinion Hog Island’s ugly. If you want to buy a “plastic” boat, take a look at RO and Adipose. The Adipose Skiff is a sweet ride if you’re not doing really big whitewater. (Check out their Wounded Warriors paint job. Really awesome). Ro makes a nice boat as well – especially for bigger, nasty water.
One of the great lines was delivered my the founder of Boulder Boat Works one day when I was visiting a few years ago. We were discussing chine design and asked him about repairing their chines if you hit a rock. He said, “Well, you’re not really supposed to hit rocks.” I always try to remember that….
I’ve used a Pelican box in rafts and drift boats and I really think they are the best. And, they really float!
Tim, If you ordered your glasses directly from Costa, you may return them within 10 days if they are too small. You may already have seen it, but the Costa Web site lists sunglasses by frame size.
I received my Fisch Silver Mirror 580’s last week. Took them to one of the local spring creeks. Zach is absolutely right about the silver mirrors and bottom contract. I had a pair of Maui Jim rose to compare them with and I definitely saw more fish with the Costas.
Todd – I think I read that Green Mirror is the same tint as Silver but with different light transmission. You might consider that option. Have you checked the Costa Web site to make sure the combination you want isn’t available directly from Costa?
I went to Cabelas (Hamburg) to see if they had a good inventory in the store. And they do – except they have no Silver Mirror 580G ‘s in any model. That was what I wanted to try. I was able to try on frames and found on that fits (Fisch) my big head. Now to find a pair of Sliver Mirrors to see what Zach raves about!
Tom – You’ve hit on the the number one problem for us senior anglers – beside bending over far enough to get waders off! I tried sunglasses over my regular glasses (which are progressive so I didn’t need a flip focal. Aweful. I finally went to contacts a few years ago and wear regular sunglasses. If I fish well into the evenings, I’ll take my contacts out and put my glasses back on. Makes seeing the fly and changing flies easier, and I still get the protection of full glasses.
I think my decision at this point comes down to silver versus green mirrors in the 580G. I fish fresh water – mostly medium to larger streams and rivers that I float, so I’m guessing that either one will serve me well.
Actually, I’m looking to replace a pair of Maui Jim plastic (Rose) glasses. The peripheral distortion is significant. I mentioned this to my optometrist the other day as I was picking up my new (outrageously expensive) progressive (plastic lens) glasses, and he said he thought plastic lenses, especially wrap around, we prone to distortion no matter how expensive.
So where did ‘Silver” mirror Costas go? You guys only mention green ad blue.
Thanks guys. I wondered about your experiences. A couple years ago I carried (onto all the airplanes) my EF 70-200 in my backpack, in the soft sack with a fleece wrapped around it. When I got the to lodge in Alaska, the lens cap had come off and the UV filter was smashed. It made me nervous about humping the lens around.
Nice! I’ve been thinking of building a strip construction Adirondack boat. I did a stitch and glue drift boat and enjoyed every minute of it. More pictures, please!!
A couple of thoughts. First, shorter is better. I prefer 6′ but one of the 7′ should do if you’re not trying to fish under too much mountain laurel. Second, I like a 4 wt. I think it casts better in the shorter, tighter situations. I would think one of the new fiberglass rods might be just the thing.
I have a couple older 7′ Winstons that work well, but my preference and prize is a 6′ 4wt cane rod built for me buy the late George Mauer (Sweetwater Rods) specifically for this use. It’s a Paul Young taper so it’s soft enough to enjoy those six inch brookies!
I switched from felt to the new Simms Vibram boots in 2010. I was going on a multi-river roadtrip in the West and knew I wouldn’t have time to let the felt dry between rivers. In most cases (Montana’s Rock Creek excepted), the Vibram was fine. I added the studs on occasion and that helped.
However this fall I went on a multi-state steelhead trip. I’d heard about how much ‘fun’ the Deschutes and its neighbors can be, so I dug out my old Borger felt soles. I had forgotten how great felt is! I’m not sure I’ll use anything out West again – unless they are banned, of course.
For walking/hiking streams in the East, the Simms boots are very comfortable and provide adequate traction. But for big rivers, give me the security of my old felts!
I think Zach’s posting here a couple years ago was right – we’ve been “marketed!”
