Got a Gheenoe
- This topic has 193 replies, 43 voices, and was last updated Mar 4, 2014 at 9:18 am by
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Brian –
The shaft is 15″ from the transom so I would say it drafts around 8″ with it down. I would also like to explore a jack plate but from what I have heard you need to pair it with a four bladed prop to get the most out of it.
This is the one I would buy: http://www.basspro.com/Mini-Jacker-for-Clamp-on-Outboards/product/8782/122143?hvarAID=shopping_googlebase&om_mmc=shopping_googlebase
Zach
In my opinion, if you need a jack plate in a shallow draft boat, you are running your gas motor in too shallow water.
In my opinion, if you need a jack plate in a shallow draft boat, you are running your gas motor in too shallow water. I see way too many shredded grass flats.
Can’t speak for Zach, but on trout tailwaters and carp flats, I tend to be running over rock or possibly mud. No worries about hurting any grass.
The shaft is 15″ from the transom so I would say it drafts around 8″ with it down. I would also like to explore a jack plate but from what I have heard you need to pair it with a four bladed prop to get the most out of it.
You’re probably right on the 4-blade prop, though every inch would be a plus even with a 3-blade prop. I’ve also heard that a hydrofoil stabilizer is good to pair with a jack plate for super-skinny running, but I’m not sure.
I hadn’t seen the jack plate you linked before. It looks like it might be a possible option for a gheenoe though.
The hard-core Gheenoers in FL use Bob’s Jack Plate….twice as much as the Bass Pro model:
Here they are with paint on. The Gheenoe rails curve more than I realized at first so I am having to reposition the front and rear ones and I am out of rivets. They work great though.
Zach,
I bought some of these bunk slicks at Bass Pro last week. It took about 10 minutes to mount them on bunks. The stainless steel screws were included.
http://www.basspro.com/Bunk-Slick-Boat-Trailer-GlideOns/product/1111100500571/315090
The boat slides back and forth with one hand!
BTW….are your trailer bunks too far apart? Mine are about 14 inches apart and extend all the way to the end of the transom…..so the weight of the motor is directly on top of the bunks. Your motor is pretty heavy so you may want to consider moving the bunks in a little to get them under the transom and motor. There is a lot of stress on that fiberglass transom and it is amplified when you are bouncing down the road.
On the subject of your motor bouncing around, a support for the bottom unit will keep the motor from constantly flexing the transom and eventually breaking something.
JCI think it must be the carpeted bunk. The only place the bait touches the trailer is there and the rear roller.
BTW, nice boat Zach! Probably a better boat for the upper Delaware than my 350 lb drift boat.
Michael,
I have the same driftboat trailer….and your right…it can be a little tough to get the boat off the trailer when you are somewhat level. As you can see…on the Gheenoe trailer, the bunks run parallel to the direction you are sliding the boat. With the Hyde trailer, the bunk runs perpendicular to the direction you are pushing the boat. So to answer your question…I don’t know if it would be easier to slide off. I really think the bunk slicks would help though. I can tell you this….they are mounted directly over the carperted bunk. If you put them on…and they don’t work….the screws would cause minimal damage to the carpeted bunk if you take them off.
I have two sections of the bunk slicks left over. I’ll put them on my trailer and see how it works. I’ll let you know. It will be a few weeks though…I store my boat in another location (closer to good trout water.
Just spent the last hour looking through this thread. Awesome job, Zach! I would love to do this to my ’95 Highsider but would not have any idea how to do it. Plus, for now with a 3 and 6 year old, it a lot easier to have them sitting on the benches when they go out with me. Oh, a boy can dream though
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