john michael white
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Here’s a couple more in addition to some of the excellent ones mentioned above:
Sorry to hear about your layoff Chad, but glad to hear you are being positive and using this time for yourself to enjoy it, while you have it.
Shout out to the Denton boys…I was born and raised in Denton.
Stuart, you might want to check out Fly tying Made Clear and Simple by Skip Morris http://www.amazon.com/Fly-Tying-Made-Clear-Simple/dp/1878175149
This is the book that was reccomended to me when I first started tying.
EDIT*looks like Zach and I were writing at the same time, so this may be a little redundant*
Mike,
Many folks here are way more experienced than me, but maybe what I have learned (through their’s and other’s help) will be helpful to you.
I have learned pretty quickly to try to get things as *right* as possible in camera. Post work quickly becomes a drag… Still, I want the control of post processing. I think if I had the most current photoshop version, things would be a heck of a lot easier and faster, but I can’t afford that. So I make up for that with time and labor.
I am using Canon DPP (RAW converter) and Adobe Elements 2.0, so I am sure you have much more, or easier capabilities than I do, with your CS2. With that said, I start in DPP and try to do as much as possible there (in RAW).
First, I apply a basic recipe that I have saved which adjusts the sharpening, ups the contrast 1, and ups the saturation a little…I apply this as a basic first pass adjustment by copy and pasting.
Next, I adjust the WB as needed using the Kelvin slider. I look at each photo and do this individualy. (If you had shot everything in a controlled studio where the lighting never changed, you could batch edit this step I believe) Occasionaly, I will work with the curves at this point if there are a few images I really want to do a little extra on and the previous adjustments have not given me the look I want.
Unfortunately, pics with water often need to be rotated a little to get the water perfectly level, and then re cropped. DPP doesn’t have a custom rotate feature, so at this point I have to convert to TIFF files and open them in Elements 2.0, and do my rotating/leveling there.
Then I go back to DPP to do my final crops (because it is easier/faster there).
Next, I will do any cloning that needs to be done (small touchups, stuck pixels, etc in elements 2.0 (I don’t like the way the clone feature works in DPP)
Finaly, I will batch convert the files into high quality JPEGs for my final files (keeping the Raw and TIFF files as backup and to work from in the future if need be).
From here, I can easily go back in DPP and batch convert the TIFF files to make B&W or sepia files, etc.
Honestly, I haven’t learned to work in layers at this point. That is the next step. I think the above is all you need on 95% of your images, at least it is for me for where I am currently.
Hope this helps.
I just became aware of this issue a few days ago as I was reading The Drake. There is a series of 3 articles that are pretty interesting and talk about the AMP in the Winter 2009 issue, for anyone who hasn’t seen this yet.
I think I’ve listened to pretty much every podcast now, so I find myself waiting for a new one to be released.
