[John Bennett]

The Sigma beast is almost as bad, forget the specs but I want to say 600mm f2.8?? You’d need a forklift almost to use it.

[John Bennett]

Full disclosure.
I have access to gear for purchase/demo, but Im noy a “shill”/fanboi. I simply know what I like and Im really impressed with their stuff.

Not being envolved in the retail busniess I can only guess, but I think over the next year or two you might see a push by Loop to gain some NA market share.

The problem is that they are up against well established manufactorers and they are a little known Euro co and distribution in NA. Both of which (distribution and presence) to the best of my knowledge they are working on.

A friend of mine was brought into the guide/Pro staff program (see increasing presence) and needing some exposure shots for his use, I was invited out for an outing.

http://jben.zenfolio.com/p2001873

That gave me good look at some of their hardware but just as surprising was some of their technical wear and outer wear. Ive known of Loop hardware and its quality for quite some time, I wasn’t aware just how good their technical/outer wear  is.

Have since acquired their wading jacket (its fantastic) and will be getting more Loop stuff in due time. I wont recomened a rod/reel above any others…a) I’d want more time, hours on water with what I have ( the Opti 7 combo) and b) as an angler who just loves to fish I’ll leave recomendations of hardware to others more qualified but thus far I am incredibly impressed with both the reel and the rod.

To each his own, Loop gear is not cheap but I wont hesitate to recomend someone give it *consideration* if its in the budget.

[John Bennett]

Thats why I’m thinking a Gimbal mount will do the trick. They are designed primarily as tripod heads for use with long lenses…yet are fully manouverable, so as to track or pan subjects. Properly balanced, once you take your hands off or stop applying pressure, the rig is rock solid.

My thinking being, if a Gimbal can do that with 15 pounds of lens/body and still allow for tack sharp images at slow shutter speeds (as with mirror lock up)…With practise you should be able to pan/swivel freely without shake and tremors disrupting vid recording.

Again, not as good as systems specifically designed for vid but a still photography tool that can (should) be adequate to allow for both.

[John Bennett]

Dusty for lack of better words think of sharpening as “defining” the borders (edges) of contrast. Its really all it amounts to. Some images of mine I apply no sharpening at all. Others a little ‘capture” sharpening to the master file to recover whats lost at capture vis a vie the AA filter. All DSLRs have an AA filter, the strength of which varies body to body, te trner the AA filter, the “softer” a raw file will appear.And other images still a little “output” sharpening thats dependant on whther the files for web display or print.

As a “general” starting point I set my sharpening parameters to .3/100/2 and then adjust from there.  Also if your using CS3 or 4 use “smart sharpening” rather than unsharp mask.

Radius essentially defines the “width” of the line of contrast being defined.

Amount defines how much the “contrast” along the line is increased

Threshold determines how much contrast needs to be present before its sharpened (contrast on the edge is increased)

While not entirely accurate think of the three common things done to any raw file…
1) black point set
2) global contrast is “boosted”
3) sharpening

all 3 impact or emphasise the existing contrast present in any image

With regards to your “blacks” slider in ACR, heres a little trick.
My “preset” is set to 5. but on every image I check for clipping by holding the alt key, while dragging the slider. It gives you a very good idea of whether to or not to back off or increase your blacks. The same is true of your exposure slider (hold alt while dragging). Any clipped area will appear as you exceed, or dissapear as you back off.
Sometimes clipping is good…a siloette for example in which case you migt want to increase your blacks. Its still a good way to get a sense of where to set your blacks in the raw file and then move onto global contrast, curves etc

[John Bennett]

Its appears like it might be over sharpened a hair but that could be a result of sharpening the original and then resizing for web. Contrast and reds likewise seem a hair overdone but these are definately subjctive ( a persons taste) so it really doesn’t matter what I think. The banding in the lower right?? No idea, I’m inclined to think its something in the background and can be easily removed if desired.

Over all Dusty its a fine image, PP might be a hair over done but its not in your face overdone and the only people who might care (and hence notice) are other “photogs”, very, very few “viewers” will notice or care

[John Bennett]

Cory the guys at Fly max are using some kind of support called a spyder. Before getting the 500mm I used to use a Bushhawk. My body and 500 is too heavy for a BH, but I can see it helping with lenses lighter than the 500.

Another option which likekly what I’ll do given Im planning on doin some with the 500 is a Gimbal mount. Likely a full gimbal but may opt for a sidekick. Personally I think a Gimbal is the best coarse

[John Bennett]

At the end of the day it adds an *option*. As a “photographer” having options is powerful, it’s not alot different than having a few lenses that allow for different things to choose from. Which ever lens best suits the situation/application is the one you mount. With out the option to switch to a faster, longer, TS, macro your limited.

I don’t see this as being all that different. It increases for lack of better words your artistic options with regards to how you want to record/portray what ever is that’s in front of you. As Chad said, any of these are still great bodies, just now you have the option to shoot vid as well as stills

[John Bennett]

I’m sold on Loop.
Before my season shut down in towards the end of Nov, I had the chance to use/demo their Opti reel on a Opti 7wt. As a result I’ll be buying the pair in time for spring migrations.

And yes the Opti does look good

[John Bennett]

Tim it depends on what he’s hoping for.

If he doesnt care at all about the end product and IQ he could use a 2x but he should know that unless he’s using a great lens to begin with hit to IQ could be heavy. With regards to IQ and TCs the more stringent you are with regards to IQ the better your lens and tc need to be. Even the best of the best suffer some degradation. I can use a 1.4 or 2x with my 500mm f4L. I wouldnt use either with the 100-400 L. My unacceptables (deletes) could and would likekly be just fine for most people who just shoot for themselves. To each his own. Long way of saying if he doesnt really care about the quality of the end product and is more interested in getting more reach for “records” than go for it. Better a shot thats not “tack sharp” than no shot at all

2x TCs reduce light by two stops, this could and likely will negate autofocus if the min aperture exceeds f5.6 ( entry and pro sumer DSLRs) or f8.0 on 1D bodies.

Meaning if he’s using a lens that is f5.6 at the widest and mounts any TC (either a 1.4 or 2.0) his body wont autofocus unless its a 1D

If the lens is f4.0 and he mounts a 1.4 TC ( 1 stop) his min aperature setting is then f5.6 which is fine for all of Canon’s DSLRs. Using the same lens and a 2X TC only the 1D series will retain auto focus.

In short, if keeping auto focus is critical and someone wants to use a 2X TC they need to be using fast glass (f2.8 or better) if their body is anything but one of the Pro 1D bodies. Which means big $$ for longer lenses (200mm +). There are workarounds (taping pins or using non reporting) but thats best left for another discussion…

With regards to TC manufactorers. Personally Id stick with name brand (Canon) but if I wanted to save some coin Kenko next, then Tamron

[John Bennett]

Depends on just how cold it is.
Around freezing or a little above light Helly Hansens leggings and light flannel pants.

A little below freezing, say -5 to -15 expedition Polar tec leggings/flannel pants

-20 or more I wear heavy fleece over the Polar tecs. Although this isnt while wading but while out shooting and my outer layer is a pair of fleece lined snow boarding pants (substitute waders)

The key is a good base layer

[John Bennett]

Love the beached fish Morsie.

Zach’s point about using a net is critical (imo). Not only do nice nets look good in images, it allows you let go of the fish, and gives it a place to rest while you set up.

[John Bennett]

I’d like to see waders with some mid sized external pockets located around both the hips and thighs..Similiar in idea, function to cargo pants.

[John Bennett]

Thanks Corey, will check those out.

At this point Im only theorising but I’m planing on approaching it much like I do my still photography.

Wildlife/nature type stuff
1Dmkiin with the 24-70 for landcapes.
1DMKIV with the 500mm for vid and stills.
What really excites me is the mkIVs capacity for low light. Early test shots that Ive seen at high ISOs are fantastic. So during those false dawn/first light times I hoping to get some good animal behavior vids ( initially all I’ll shoot vid of). Regardless having the *option* to shoot stills or vids with a 500mm of wildlife is tantalising. I’m *hoping* to have a crack at some Owls taking voles this winter for example.

But what I’m really itching todo is some fishing while armed with both, and each set up for different types of shots.

I’ll continue to use the 24-70 with filters as my work horse at f4.0 to f11, shots on the fly stuff. Then will have one of the two 85mm lenses on the mkIV, wide open ( at f1.8 or f1.2) for portraits with dreamy backgrounds or vids depending on whats happening around me.

Re the 7D.
It’s a great bod and even has a couple features I wish they’d have incorporated in the mkIV. The people I know (about half a dozen) shooting with it, all love it, although none are shooting vids that I know of.

Fly max is starting to shoot some of their vids with the 5Dmkii

[John Bennett]

I will be once I get the new body later this month. I’m itching to get out and have both bodies in use. One set for general stuff with the 24-70 and the new with either the 500 (stills and video) for wildlife or one of the 85mms f1.8 or 1.2 for stills/video when fishing.

Post and editing wil be a big undertaking but none the less Im really hoping for some good material

[John Bennett]

Nice Neal. Good job on the 2nd to last with the flash.

And yeah, setting up in the river can be a little unerving. In time, you learn to ignore the butterflies 🙂 Wait till you go for low angle shots with waves breaking a foot away or on ice covered rock in winter..:)

[John Bennett]

Sweet Mike.
I would love to fish water that clear.

[John Bennett]

Forgot to mention potential legal pit falls Will.

“Feeding” wildlife here in Ont is “legal” and baiting deer can be done, some species it can’t ( waterfowl). Scents are or may be made illegal this year. Electronic calls are legal for some, illegal for others.

In all cases whether it (some activity) is legal or not “Harrassment” of game is illegal..What constitutes “harrassment” you ask? Good question and here in ONT I beleive its left up to the CO to make a discretionary call.

Pursuing some animal/bird without respite would (imo) constitute harrassment, especially nocturnal or even diurnal animals but which usually “rest/sleep” during the day.

You dont have to be “hunting” in the classic sense to fall afoul of various game/wildlife laws although they are most commonly applied to hunters and hunting. One example given on the MNRs website relates to “jacklighting”. Everyone knows its illegal to jacklight while hunting. However, they (MNR) specifically state driving back roads and using headlights to locate deer in fields at night, even without any firearms present could lead to a harrasment charge.

As Eric said in Michigan its illegal to bait deer. To the best of my knowledge that prohibition does not exist in Cda, so you should be okay to toss out a bushel of apples/corn to keep the deer coming back to the spot….but you might want to check into some of Manitobas game/wildlife laws.

Oh and if your not in a conservation are wear HUNTER ORANGE, especially now ( Shotgun/Rifle seasons). No picture is worth a stray bullit or worse some idiot not enuring what they are pointing their gun at. Every year there are accidents. Personally once a season open I dont venture into area’s where hunting is permitted and stick to CAs.

[John Bennett]

Tried their largest in a store to see if it would hold my 1D and 180 macro. It failed.

That said it might hold a lighter body and lens, but wouldnt I trust it

[John Bennett]

Deer are fairly habitual Will. They have bedding areas and feed areas.
Typcially as a hunter you will want a few spots, each being placed to intercept them as they move to/from one of the above. Which spot your in on any given day is decided by the wind. Pattern Does, the bucks will follow them.

Calls. Any can work, I usually stick to Estrus bleats and rattles.

Food
Corn or Apples.

Scents:
Dont bother with urine and estrus. Just reduce/remove your own. You dont want to get busted too often, that can push them off.

Re Coyotes.
They will return until its gone. Having said that they can finish off a WT in a night

[John Bennett]

Files look good Morsie, but theres 2 things I wanted to point out.

The focus seems to be inconsistent but I that down to me not being used to the new system. When its on its really on.These gliders were coming in at well over 100mph so the 8fps was useful, shot at 1250 ISO and f8@5,000/sec. This was the first real shooting did with the camera using a 70-200f4 and a 1.4 extender

The 7D line AF/AI servo isn’t perfect but its darn good. I wouldn’t though draw a conclusion from these early test and there’s two things going on that will have compromised it a bit.

First and foremost is the addition of the TC. No matter what lens/body you have adding a TC only taxes your bodies ability to AF. With a zoom as opposed to a prime, thats made worse. Its going to hunt a bit, its going to miss a fair completely. Thats true with my 500 f4 and 1D, its going to more of a factor with a zoom/pro sumer

Second. The heat. The atmosheric haze is also going to play havoc, the longer your focal length, the worse that becomes.

I would reserve judgement until your putting the AF/AI Servo to the test under conditions that arent going to stack the deck against it.

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