[J A Y M O R R]

I like how you are thinking Gerard. There are a few of us who will be following this closely and checking more reviews of the camera as they are made available. I am very interested but will not drop the coin on it until I see the IQ.

On a side note I have a D4 in the shopping cart 🙂 This camera would look pretty good right next to it.

[J A Y M O R R]

The boxes look great Zach! Nice work. Those are going to work great. You will fall in love with soft-boxing.

The only issue with the DIY is that they don’t break down. When you decide to do it in the field, the convenience of that option will come into play.

[J A Y M O R R]

Nice Zach. One thing I personally challenged myself to do early on is to stick to using 1 modifier for a set period of time. The goal to learn everything I can about the light modifier before moving on to something else. Each modifier has strengths and different aspects in how it can be applied. Having a great understanding of how a modifier can be used and its limits has helped me tremendously before moving on to the next one.

I started with a 60in Brella. I spent 6 months shooting with it in so many different ways. I learned a ton.

The difference in any image is light or the lack of it.

Have fun with your project.

PS. Colvin, “Dude Put That Away”! I know how you roll! 😉

Some examples of a 60 Brella from sometime ago:

Softbox:

Hope you enjoyed the last example 😉 Post your pics Zach. Good stuff.

[J A Y M O R R]

<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>Mike McKeown wrote:</div>
Jay, you rock!!

One of these days Mike, you and I need to hit some water.  Glad you like the images.

[J A Y M O R R]

Definitely one of my favs over the years:

One from this year:

 

 

[J A Y M O R R]

105 Macro, because it looks better when the subjects beek is in focus!

 

 

[J A Y M O R R]

Thanks Zach. That is nice of you to say. It’s not about the print. I learned that a little while ago. However, if they come knockin’, I will provide. They know how to find me 😉

[J A Y M O R R]

Just a few…

[J A Y M O R R]

Big Congrats Zach! I like how they were able to flip the shot. Awesome work!

[J A Y M O R R]

Love them Stu! The clarity is awesome and so are the smiles! Thanks for sharing. Brings a grin to my face. Really cool!

[J A Y M O R R]

Thanks Tim and C.B.

Fun trip for sure. Big bugs out with some big guns. Glad you liked them.

[J A Y M O R R]

I know how you roll Colvin! A setup that can be held, which produces both in the studio and in the field.

Inquiring minds want to know….

shot of Brett Colvin getting it done.

[J A Y M O R R]

Zach,
{echoing what David Anderson has mentioned)
Rather than use a sheet, you can use anything white. I use poster board a lot or anything white. I use my lights to blow out my backgrounds white. I use the same technique with product photography as I do with my subjects in the studio.

This shot was a grey wall. I used to strobes to blast out the wall and the grey concrete floor. I use this technique with product as well. The trick is to pull your subject far enough away from the backdrop and to also “flag” the light in the direction you want it to go. The below I used a three light setup. Two lights on the back drop to blow out my whites and a single key light in the front. You could do the same with product work. Find a white wall. Grab a poster board and blow out the background:

Same dealio here:

Reverse the technique now and get black backgrounds on white walls. Just pull the subject further away from the background and let the light fall off. With product photography and portrait work I have been able to find great results with controlling light using these methods. This last shot is for you LOL 😉 Single strobe white wall…

Give it a try.

• This reply was modified 13 years ago by J A Y M O R R.

[J A Y M O R R]

Glad you asked David. That little gold “N” on your lens represents goodness.

N A N O is the Difference. 😉

http://imaging.nikon.com/history/scenes/20/index.htm

[J A Y M O R R]

Thanks Adam! Much appreciated. I dig the drip images as well. A couple more:

[J A Y M O R R]

Love these little guys!

• This reply was modified 13 years, 1 month ago by J A Y M O R R.
• This reply was modified 13 years, 1 month ago by J A Y M O R R.

[J A Y M O R R]

I use the 85 1.4 a lot on a D700 and it has been a favorite when I am not shooting with the 300 2.8 for head and shoulder work. It is not a lens I use a lot on the water based on what Ben talks about but I think it is an excellent choice for the D800 for portrait work which you mentioned David. Some examples below:

As Ben mentioned, the 50 1.4 is also a nice option. I like using it on the water when I am not shooting wide. The weight is far less then a 14-24 or the 17-35 that I almost use exclusively on the water. The problem with some of the wide angle glass is the bulk. It gets heavy after a full day.

• This reply was modified 13 years, 1 month ago by J A Y M O R R.
• This reply was modified 13 years, 1 month ago by J A Y M O R R.
• This reply was modified 13 years, 1 month ago by J A Y M O R R.

[J A Y M O R R]

Nice David. Welcome to N A N O !

I echo the 1.7 TC.

[J A Y M O R R]

Mike the 7100 is a huge upgrade from the 7000 and is a APS-C image censsor (Crop).  It is not full frame however, built around a new 24.1-megapixel image sensor and the same Expeed 3 image processor that drives the full-frame D4.

It is a very nice camera that will burst out 6FPS and has a 51 point auto focus system.  

It will work nicely with your 10-24.  It is a tough choice between the 7100 and the D600.  The 7100 is a 24.1MP but you can set it to shoot at 15.1.

My opinion….full frame bodies are coming down in price and with the launch of the D600 and D800, both full frame bodies, I would have a hard time investing in DX glass only to upgrade when you go the full frame route.  

Hope that helps.  Either way the D7100 is a very nice crop body and much improved over the D300s which I still use as a back up to my D700.  

Oh one more thing, the LCD on the D7100 is tack! Probably the best LCD Nikon has put out to date.  Good stuff.

For the cost you could also purchase a full frame used D700 which is very solid.

[J A Y M O R R]

Filters have their place but they do not replace the same effects of strobing mid day wide open.  It just doesnt.

I have a different opinion regarding PW’s and for me they do not take up any room at all.  I am not packing 10 of them into the field…..I am packing two for a single strobe for fishing or wildlife in most cases. Than on the other hand I am not rolling with lots of  different filters either, nor do I like putting them over my precious tack sharp NANO!  🙂  (to each their own)

As far as making adjustments to slaves in the field for the groups you mention …..You previously stated that weight in your kit is an issue and refer to filters as a substitute,  do you honestly ever use this feature in the field JB for the light groups you are referring to?

Sure, their is a savings and a little convenience in not having to use remote triggers with a 1Dx but I am not relying on ND filters for the kind of work that I do.  

Units frying are extremely rare and they are very reliable.  I know because I shoot with them every day in studio and so do thousands of others 😉

And while we are talking shop….hahahaha  the QXD system on the D4 will shoot 200 RAW files before filling the buffer at 11fps.  That is over 20 full seconds.   Tell me how that buffer is on the 1Dx wildlife images you are getting JB….do you like the 4 seconds results?   😀  

1 thing you and I can agree on is that every second counts with buffer when birds or fast action is bombing in.

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