greg mitchell
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Have you looked at the Peak vise? I’ve owned several vises but like the Peak the best by far. Reasonable price, true rotary, nicely machined, and holds any size hook rock steady. What more could you ask for?
I’ve looked and never seen a negative review or comment on this vise either.Greg
I don’t think I agree – I don’t think any of the big name rod companies would repair a poorly cared for ebay purchase basically for free. Most of them give good service but that is above and beyond.
Greg
1. 8 1/2 foot 5 wt custom built on St. Croix blank – use this one 90% of the time.
2. 7 1/2 foot 4 wt custom built by me on forcast blank.Greg
I have the Simms L2 boots and have been very pleased with them. They are the first pair of boots I’ve had that have lasted more than a year. They seem well constructed and are comfortable. Only drawback was the elastic lacing system. Mine was shot after just a few weeks. I’m sure Simms would have replaced them but I just put regular nylon laces in them.
Regarding the boot wearing out faster than the felt – that’s happened to me 4 different times. I always bought cheap $50 or less boots until the L2’s.
I’ve never been displeased with anything made by Simms. I recently bought a used Simms guide vest off of ebay and couldn’t be happier with it. It’s several years old but still in perfect shape. It was missing the foam fly patch. When I contacted Simms and offered to buy one – they sent me a new one for free. That’s customer service!
Greg
I really enjoy reviews like that. I just enjoy reading other peoples opinions about fly gear. You just have to realize any type of review is largely subjective – that’s just the nature of the beast. You don’t have to agree with the reviewer to enjoy the review and respect his/her opinions.
Thanks for posting the link to the article.
Greg
Thanks Cameron. I remember seeing those old wonderods as a kid. I think I’ll keep my eye out for one.
Greg
I’ve built 3 rods. I can’t add a lot to what has already been said. But I’ll reiterate a few things.
1. I don’t like the color preserver either. My wraps/finish looked much better without it. But just be aware that if you don’t use it – your thread color will change drastically.
2. Patience. My rods all turned out pretty good but I think they would have been even better if I had been more patient.
3. Kids and pets! Keep your work away from them. I have a story similar to Zach’s. On my first build – I had just finished the wraps and the rod was drying on our kitchen table. My teenage son came in from a date and immediately knocked it on the floor. We have 2 dogs that shed and the wraps were covered with dog hair! Had strip off all the guides and start over.Good luck.
Greg
There was a really hot discussion on entry level lines vs top of the line ones on another board I frequent. Some maintained that the $60 lines were by far the best and that this is what most fly fisherman should buy.
But I and several others maintain that a lot of the entry level lines are great and that you give up very little performance wise by using them. My favorite line is the Bass Pro CV2. It is $19. It casts great, floats high, and has been a durable performer for me. In fact my wife has Rio’s top of the line $60 line on her trout rod – and neither she or I can tell a difference between it and the CV2 line on my trout rod. Maybe the Rio floats a little higher but beyond that….
I don’t have one but I have no doubt that the Rio Mainstream is a great line at a great price. I’ve not found anything made by Rio to be anything but top notch.
Greg
I love topics like this. This board has some of the best discussions on gear. I’ve usually always chosen some shade of green for my line just because I happen to like that color. That’s real scientific isn’t it?
It is interesting that there are so many colors out there including clear tip/stealth lines and they all seem to work. But do some work better? Are the clear tip lines just to “catch” fisherman? It’s a good question and one we probably can’t answer definitively here. I think I agree with Carter that color doesn’t make much difference. But I’m not sure color wouldn’t make at least somewhat of a difference in heavily fished waters.
Greg
Hey Mike thanks for posting that. I have a friend here in MO that is obsessed with trying to catch a muskie on a fly rod. He’s caught a few on conventional tackle but not on a fly as of yet. He has had a couple of “follows” this year though. This will give him some hope.
Greg
Zach thanks for your input as well as the others. I did in fact read your article on bamboo rods last week. Unfortunately if I get one (bamboo rod) $500 is about my budget at this time. At some point my kids will graduate and I could afford what I want. But for now……
So the teastick may serve me well. I’m really leery of used rods. I’ve been burned a time or 2 there.
Zach can I ask what you think of your Teastick bamboo? I’m really interested in a boo rod for certain conditions/occasions and just because it sounds like fun. I do know they are imported. But I just can’t shell out $1000 or more for one with a kid in college.
thanks,
Greg
Thanks for the info and advise. The only Scott I’ve cast is one of the old G’s that a friend of mine has. I do like it but prefer something a bit faster.
I’ve seen those eagle claw grangers on ebay and wondered if they were decent rods.
Greg
Just MHO’s but if you’re throwing clousers and such I would want a stiffer rod than the 2 you are thinking about. Here’s a pretty good article on 6 wt fly rods:
http://www.flyfishinginsider.com/aArticle_display.asp?id=60
The verdict of this article was that the TFO TiCr rod was the best all around 6 wt.
Greg
Carter,
Go to http://www.drakemag.com and you’ll see the link to subscribe. They have a very…..ahem… “unique” bulletin board as well.
I agree with Zach. I like Scheck’s book a lot. I’ve built a couple of rods and looked at a lot of books and think his is the best.
Greg
I agree with just about everything that’s been said. And I really like your approach of learning to tie one pattern at a time. I think that’s sensible. Going along with that you might think about buying the basic tools and then buying a “tie a fly” kit. They cost about $20 each and include everything you need to tie one pattern – hooks, material everything. Here is the link:
If I was doing it over again that’s how I would do it.
Just some more thoughts about tools: I would sink most of my money into the vise. It’s the most important. Slipping hooks are really frustrating. I think Zach made a good recommendation with the anvil. Another to consider is the peak vise. With the other tools I’ve found the cheap stuff works pretty well. I’ve got $5 scissors from bass pro that work almost as well as the $15 Dr. Slicks. Bobbins – just make sure the thread tube is flared or it has a ceramic insert. Otherwise breaking, fraying thread is a real hassle. I’ve found these cheaper bobbins very good as well.
Good luck,
Greg
