Buzz Bryson
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Actually, there is less surface contact because of the nature of the Sharkskin impression on the line.
What Zach said.
I’ve gotten several of the Sharkskin prototypes to play with, including some sinking heads, but have (unfortunately) been having to work more and fish less of late.
Carter,
If the lab is pretty good, you’d be better off to send an unaltered file, and let them do any uprezzing, color correction, sharpening, etc.
Well, if looks don’t matter, go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of plastic pipe and end fittings.
The problem for some, as Zach said, is that they miscalculated, or didn’t calculate, the relative cost of rod warranties when they established them.
I guess it was Orvis’ 25-year warranty the eventually prompted other rod makers, when sales began to slow after the big sure in the late ’80s, to institute the unlimited warranty.
Office supply places sell sheets (maybe 3″x5″) of clear stuff made to cover LCD screens on PDAs, cameras, etc.
As far as I know, the SB-600 will work the same as the SB-800 in a slave function.
I use two SB-800s in that manner on occasion, and they work well.
Mike,
Out of curiosity, what combination of head, running line, guides, water, etc., are you having that cuts through guides, and how fast?
Asking solely from trying to understand what is weak link in system, and whether it is actual gear, or fishing conditions (some huge silt load in water, coating line and abrading guides).
Thanks
Buzz
Eric,
Having both, and liking both for different purposes, I’d always pick the Pelican over the Great Divider for a “true” camera box.
Back when I was a kid, before we knew we were all supposed to eat healthy and exercise, and before I knew what was in it, Spam used to be a favorite of mine.
I’ve had several Pelican cases over the years, and with the exception of one sprung hinge, all have served me well. They have some strong competition (e.g., Storm cases), but I’ve stuck with the Pelican.
I use mine in boats all the time. One thing I’ve done is to put two strips of “industrial strength” Velcro (the “pile” side) on the bottom, and aligning strips (the “hook” side) on a section of closed-cell foam. When the water is really rough, I slap the foam on the bottom. Might not help, but makes me feel better, as I think it further protects against both hull slamming and vibration. This particular case is the 1510, the max carry-on roller size.
I’d also suggest getting the padded dividers instead of the foam. The padded dividers don’t “shed” like foam eventually starts doing. Plus, as you change gear (don’t we all continually buy/sell lenses and accessories?), you can change the dividers around. Once you pluck the foam, it’s tough to change.
If you’re out in the tropical sun a lot, I’d opt for the lighter colored models, paint the top, or remember to throw a white towel over it. The black models can soak up a lot of heat.
I don’t use the Pelican much on streams; they’re just not easy to carry, even the small ones. Yes, there are “backpack” harnesses made for them. No thanks: uncomfortable and heavy. I use a Watershed shoulder bag or a LowePro Dry Zone on streams. Hate them both, because of slowness of access, but they work to keep gear dry.
That’s another reason I like the Pelican in the boat. They open/close quickly, so it’s easy to grab a shot. If you’ve ever thought, “I’d take a picture but it’s so much trouble to open/close that zipper [roll top/etc]”, maybe you should consider a quicker-opening system.
Lot of positives, few negatives, at least for me.
Buzz
