Buzz Bryson
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Google “bulldog clamp” and you’ll see plenty of choices. Fisher Scientific or any of the lab supply vendors have all sorts of varieties of them.
Buzz
A somewhat lesser solution: I have a really strong, complex prescription. My ophthalmologist has an associated optical shop next door, and between them, they came up with a pretty good solution (polarized, tinted whatever “flavor” I wanted – – – neutral gray, brown, amber, yellow, green, etc.). But, they had to be in plastic, and basically flat lenses (no complex wrap around frame). All resulting from my coke bottle prescription. And they were monovision, which definitely didn’t help when I need bifocals for tying on flies.
Those worked, were expensive (although actually less so than Costa/Smith), and had no particular warranty that I know of, other than the optical shop has been great over the years about any issues I’ve had.
In the end, I switched to the slip-over polarized glasses. I use Cocoons, usually amber in streams, gray in saltwater. They’re relatively cheap, let me use my normal glasses, and, for what they are, are really pretty amazingly good optically.
An extra benefit, if you fish in the salt much, is that one pair can be used for running (and keep salt spray off your prescription glasses), and a clean pair can be kept in your pocket to slip on for fishing.
Adding layers is rarely, if ever, better for vision, but this is a case that’s worked for me.
Buzz
Hey Zach,
Offered with the caveat that I haven’t had that many boats, or even with them gone through a very sophisticated prop selection process.
That said, if you buy a package (boat & engine) from a dealer, they usually have worked with the makers of both to put on a prop (or offer a couple of choices) that optimize pitch and diameter for running the engine in its RPM power/economy band for your uses. Lacking that, some dealers will let you test/swap props to find the one you like best (and assuming you don’t damage the prop) for your package/uses.
There are always compromises, spinning up fast vs economy causing, etc. Not sure it’s that big a deal on relatively low HP engines, within reason. There are plenty of on-line articles from various prop makers, boating mags, etc. with general information. But hull manufacturer should be the first to ask about prop for a specific model and engine make/HP.
And don’t forget material: aluminum vs. stainless.
Buzz
Can’t speak first hand to Iceland, but expect it would be a wonderful trip.
But, along the lines of what Zach and Mr. Greeley said, going west is an experience one never tires of. The diversity of fishing (species, size of streams and lakes, fishing conditions, etc.), the scenery, the wildlife, the food, the people, the weather. It’s a tough act to top. And you never know who you’ll meet: somebody from back home, Wall Street, Hollywood, and of course the locals.
And two trips a year can be great. Compare new waters. And, if you get a chance to fish some of the same water twice at either end of the season, some will be similar; some remarkably different.
My wife and I are headed out again this summer, the difference being we’re both retired. So we don’t exactly have a start date, or an end date. Don’t need them, as we’re driving. So we can count the rows of corn in Iowa, or perhaps find some more exciting stops on the way out. It’s a long way from NC to Montana/Idaho. And pretty much the same distance back . . .
Buzz
Zach,
There have been several projects over the years, sponsored variously by state/federal agencies, TU, etc., to add supplemental calcium and other minerals to streams to adjust pH, add buffering and the like. Some were on pristine, but mineral-poor streams such as those you mention in GA (and here in NC), some to counteract acidic drainage from mines (e.g, WV), and some to counteract spills (as from tanker wrecks).
The process works. Frequently, the setup involves large, water-driven, rotating drums that grind and dispense the limestone chunks. The problem is that, unless continued indefinitely, the stream will revert to previous conditions. Also, the involved biologists/hydrologists/geologists have to model the stream, and periodically add more as tributaries enter or the minerals are diluted and need supplemented downstream. We’re talking huge quantities in some cases (truckloads), and often, access problems. And low/high water events can be troublesome.
I think one of the issues that has to be overcome is the long-term commitment to such a project. There’s typically a lot of support, but, over time, enthusiasm wanes, and “sponsorship” is lost.
I’ve seen studies that showed significant increases in insect and trout diversity and biomass downstream of “free” (no additional costs) discharges from . . . trout farms and . . . wastewater plants.
Buzz
Aaron,
Yes on using different numbers of wraps. In fact, Lefty used his knot machine to test various numbers of turns. He recommends (if I recall correctly off the top of my head) as few as a couple for heavier materials to as many as seven or so for lighter material. But five is a good number of middle of the road, streamer-strength tippet materials. Heavier tippets and “grabby” materials (seems mostly the harder nylons and fluorocarbon) might require a bit of finessing and help (lube – – – spit works, but something like lip balm or some of the fly line dressings are slicker).
Agree with Kent on the knot. The description does sound like an arbor knot, but I suspect the intent was to describe the Homer Rhode loop knot.
Buzz
Most of the cruises coordinate closely with the local ports to offer the cruise guests every opportunity to spend money while in port. Whether or not the cruise itinerary offers “fly fishing the flats” as an option, a quick call to the cruise line help line should determine that, or certainly at least how much time you’ll have in port. You can then Google information on local guides, fishing, etc. And, maybe, you’ll be able to plan a trip at the last minute. It is the off season for fishing. You’ll find in most ports, as you leave the ship, there are plenty of “opportunities” from locals to buy any and everything, including fishing. This past August – September my wife and I went on a two-week cruise/land tour trip to Alaska, and booked several shore excursions through the cruise line, including a day of fly fishing for salmon. Turns out, we could have done the same by just walking off the ship and finding the nearest truck/van advertising fly fishing. Regardless, it was a well-run trip, albeit geared more toward beginners. Still, most everybody caught something.
That said, February in the Bahamas is very problematic, weather-wise. Could be great, could be a cold snap driving every fish into deeper water. I’d go prepared, and “listen” to the weather.
Buzz
Regardless of which gloves you choose, you might want to throw some of the chemical hand warmers into your jacket/vest. My hands get cold easily, and while good gloves help, there’s nothing better than taking a few minutes’ break now and again, and wrapping bare hands around some chemical heat in your pockets. Warms the entire body. Speaking of warm body, it all starts with keeping the head warm, doesn’t it.
Buzz
I really shouldn’t tell this story, but . . .
Years ago, a group of us went bonefishing in the Bahamas. Most of us left the rods set up for the entire trip. On the last night, one of the guys couldn’t get two of the sections on one rod separated. As you did, we tried about everything. Finally, we all just laughed and, being totally unsympathetic, told our friend he apparently was thoroughly out of luck, and needed to find himself a two-piece tube (or carry the two sections on the plane) to get the rod home, and then ship everything back to the manufacturer to deal with.
He listened to us go on for a few more minutes, then a smile came over his face, and he said “I have it!”
“What”, we said, “what!!”
He raised the stuck sections up, then suddenly brought them down, snapping them over his knee, as he shouted “UNLIMITED WARRANTY!!!!”
And, he got the rod fixed, for the price of shipping it to the manufacturer.
I’d not suggest that, but I have nothing constructive to offer either. Can’t recall ever seeing the jar lid thingies not work.
Good luck!
Buzz
Hey Zach,
Factor in dealer service. Having a relatively nearby dealer, with good service (in and beyond warranty) is golden. I’ve had both extremes, and dealers with mediocre/bad service are what keeps independent shops thriving. Fierce competition around here, and dealer service has gotten much better, including perks like pick-up/delivery, loaners or shuttles, free washes, refreshments in the waiting rooms, wireless, etc. Of course, “we” pay for that. Still . . .
Google something like “mileage while towing”. Some SUVs with moderate size engines that get pretty good mileage with nothing behind them just guzzle gas when they’re pulling a load. There might be a happy medium of engine size and towing/non-towing mileage (I sure don’t know what it is). Ditto on transmissions. Some just don’t do well with extra loads. Stick with a brand/model that’s not changed much for a couple of years, and they’ve probably sorted out any problems. Sometimes, the first year of production models have some glitches.
And you already know about needing good brakes . . .
Since you’re buying new, I’ll not offer my ’02 Explorer. Still with low mileage (hasn’t broken 200K yet). It’s a cream puff . . .
But new will allow you to order the towing package most SUVs offer (frame hitch, oil cooler, pre-wired for trailer lights, bigger radiator, etc.). I’d definitely get that.
Good luck!
Buzz
Since you’re wading, and presumably your hands will be wet with saltwater, I’d carry along a couple of ziplocs with dry (or maybe slightly moist) towels (paper or cloth) to wipe your hands off before you shoot.
If it’s windy, be particularly careful of salt spray. Amazing how tiny droplets can be deposited on all surfaces . . . and sneak inside . . .
When you’re all done and back home, after the final wipe, leave the camera out where it can air dry completely, and where you can watch for any developing corrosion.
And insurance is a really good investment . . .
Buzz
Zach,
Good rod article. I’d add that buying a used rod is somewhat like buying a used car, although any meaningful wear and tear is going to be apparent, and there’s little worry about what’s hidden in the engine, transmission, etc. If the prospective buyer gives the used rod a good once-over, looking for any damaged guides, nicks or scratches that could lead to fracture, etc., and if the price is right, go for it. Well, one more thing, if having a lifetime warranty is a major issue for a buyer, and the warranty on a rod is not transferrable, those so concerned might want to make another choice.
Totally agree, though, that for the most part, year-to-year changes are minor, although perhaps noticeable and/or meaningful to some. Most of us in the middle of the bell curve have to ask ourselves if a 10% betterment in weight, performance, “shine”, whatever is noticeable and/or worth that $700 price tag. Can’t see it for new anglers. For years, the “admission price” was viewed as a major impediment to recruiting new fly anglers. To the extent that was an issue (and it was), TFO, Redington, Echo, etc., broke down that barrier.
That the more moderate priced rods have reached the level of performance they have, greatly increasing the offerings to prospective buyers, has benefitted us all.
Buzz
Hey Zach,
I’ve been through a lot of “waterproof” bags over the years. Most were OK, in that nothing inside got wet. Which is not to say that some were not better than others (those making some of those others memorably worse . . .).
I’ve had zippers that wicked water to one end or the other, where there was just enough space to dribble water into the bag. Not normally fatal, but not as “waterproof” as advertised.
Some fabric just didn’t cut it in the sun, or if pinched (an all too common occurrence in some designs). Some had “sharp” corners that quickly abraded and leaked. Some zippers were so hard to close, that pulling on them finally pulled something else loose.
One concern I always had was that even if a bag passed a submersion test, how well would the zipper hold if you happened to fall on the bag while wading. Or, even if the zipper is waterproof, is the design such that it holds up well over time. Or if a bit of grit gets into it. Or will it have the “sunscreen on a fly line” deterioration.
A lot of variables, so I just assume NONE of them are 100% reliable, but having little choice, try not to test them in real life. I don’t fall down too often (although some have been quite spectacular), but take extra care when wading with a camera in a “dry bag”.
One of the “best” (worst) failures I had was with a bag that was intended for boat use, and had a waterproof bottom shell, extending up the sides a couple of inches, with the bulk of the bag being constructed of “water proof” fabric. Problem was, as I found out during a torrential rain one day on the flats, was that the zippers weren’t waterproof, and the stitching around the many pockets wasn’t waterproofed. The end result was that the bag filled up with several inches of water. Water was going in much quicker than it was leaking out, and the bottom shell was truly waterproof, right up to where it was stitched onto the fabric. All in all, about the worst design possible.
I’m a big fan of the roll top bags, but then they’re not particularly suitable for many needs.
Buzz
I suppose you young whippersnappers would find it humorous if I told you I remembered when the best lines (SA Air Cel Supreme and Cortland 444) were in that price range (and less). And Hardy Lightweight reels (back when they had the 2-screw nickel silver line guards) for $35. Full retail. Relative to a high schooler’s income, extremely pricey.
Buzz
Zach,
Agree with the others, can’t see what the Df has to offer for the price. But, as you’re thinking, bodies might pretty quickly begin showing up on used markets, and if the used price is significantly lower . . .
Or go back to DX. Been reading lots of good stuff about the D7100. A bit lighter/smaller.
On that same smaller/lighter vein, I’ve been pretty happy with the M4/3 system. 16mp, about half the weight, size and price of a FF system. Flash is pretty good, not quite like the SB800/900s, but good. Primary downside I’ve seen so far, and it’s not a showstopper for most uses, is that it doesn’t track action nearly as well as the Nikons. Did some side-by-side shots of some string instruments, and used both the D800 and Oly E-M5. You could definitely see the difference, but the Oly files made some really nice prints that more than satisfied the customer. And my computer wheezes less when pulling up a 16MP file compared to a 36MP file.
Size/weight makes trekking through airports much easier, and attendants don’t even look at the case at the gate (as opposed to the “you’ll have to gate check that” refrain I get with the larger case the Nikon gear requires.
Buzz
Most everyone, myself included, likes to discuss the results of rod tests. And Bernd hit upon many of the variables that can affect the results, e.g., line taper, weight, belly (and front/rear taper) length, typical casting distances, fly, leader, etc. And let’s not forget density and cross-sectional area.
Some . . . many . . . years ago, at the fly fishing trade show, I ran into a shop owner casting new rods at the casting pool. He started out by removing the manufacturer’s reel, and mounting one he pulled out of his pocket. I asked him about that, and he said “The only way I’ll ever know how one 5-wt rod compares to another is if I cast them with the same line and leader, and there’s no way all these rods have the same lines on them.”
It’s been years since line makers stuck with the AFTMA 30-foot standard, except perhaps “standard” lines, and the rod makers certainly have no standard. Many/most will tell you that they will design a rod for an intended use, and if that use typically involves aerializing 40 feet of line, they optimize the rod accordingly. Consider, as Bruce Richards once pointed out to me, that on average every ten feet of line belly is equal to about one additional line weight. So when you’re aerializing 40 feet of line (and assuming it’s all belly), you’re loading that rod with roughly one extra line weight. Which can certainly add to the confusion.
Add casting style and abilities, and it’s easy to see that all the variables can quickly overwhelm any line standard or corresponding rod designations.
The point, if I have one, is that even using as standardized methods as possible, the results might prove “correct” for many anglers, or not at all for others. That doesn’t mean the tester was wrong. Perhaps s/he was just different. Or wrong . . . It’s all very subjective, once in motion.
Good thread, I think!
Some years ago, three of us did an evaluation in Fly Rod & Reel of 8-wt rods for largemouth fishing. While we didn’t always agree that one specific rod was better than another, we did pretty much agree that the rods could fit into three groups, and which rods fit into those good/great, OK to fish with, and thanks but I’ll pass groups.
What we also knew, and quickly confirmed, is that an 8-wt that casts long, tight loops with a piece of yarn on the end of the leader might cast like a rug beater when a poofy bass bug is tied on – – – particularly at moderate distances (30-70 feet), and when considering the number of false casts needed to get things going when the bug is stripped up to the boat/bank.
And, as George’s shootout noted, some rods performed much better with 9-wt lines.
Same thing with sinking lines/heads: some rods that do well with floaters do just as well with sinkers, but some don’t.
I enjoy reading such comparisons, partly for the information, and yes, partly to see if I can pick out any shortcomings. George, who I’ve known for years and who is a superb and versatile angler (and a fish predator if ever there was one), does really hammer on rods lacking tubes. Yet virtually everybody I know who carries more than a couple of rods on a trip uses one of the many multi-rod carriers. I think the shootout has that backwards. Instead of suggesting those rods ought to be priced $30 higher to be “even”, I’d suggest all the others are overpriced by $30, because most anglers would rather buy the rod w/o a tube.
Good entertainment!
Buzz
Presuming that you don’t wear corrective lenses for distance, I’d get one of the magnifiers that clip on a cap bill and flip down. They should offer enough close-up correction to tie on a fly, without your reading glasses.
Here’s the Orvis version: http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx?pf_id=1269
Most fly shops or on-line stores have some variation of those (clip on hat, on glasses if you do wear them, etc.)
They work fine for occasional knot tying, but if you were going to use them to tie flies for hours, I’d search around for magnifiers with a bit better optics (e.g., go to your ophthalmologist and ask him). Assuming again that your current reading glasses don’t quite give you the magnification you need.
Buzz
Figured so Zach. I was in the local “Pelican store” (it’s a master distributor, or whatever term Pelican uses), and has multiples of pretty much every Pelican and Storm case made. Plus they do custom inserts (amazing the military hardware you can see in there for fitting). They had some coolers up front, with a sign on top, comparing them to Yeti; thought of this thread.
I’ve found I can buy a lot of ice for the price difference in an Igloo and the premium brands. In fact, I can buy multiple cooler replacements and still be ahead! One item of “tackle” that generally doesn’t terribly impact trip if it fails!
