Buzz Bryson
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One consideration is that some of the D800 users are finding that the lenses (some of them) that worked fine on the 12-16mp bodies aren’t up to capturing the resolution that a 36mp sensor can capture. Don’t know if a 24mp body will “best” that 12-24 lens or not.
And in another direction, a lot of folks are going to the mirrorless bodies. The Olympus E-M5 is getting a lot of press, for one. Smaller, lighter, etc. But an entirely different system to buy for most of us.
Buzz
Could be a short in circuit, maybe the switch. If camera is generally in good shape and you otherwise intend to keep it, contact Nikon service or the nearest authorized service center, ask about getting an estimate, and ship it to them. Both are listed here: http://www.nikonusa.com/Service-And-Support/Service-And-Repair.page
Can’t hurt to ask, just be sure to confirm you can get estimate, and turnaround time (which can be slow),
Since Feb, 2010, possessing firearms in YNP is governed by applicable local, state and federal law, not NPS policy. So, consistent with those regs, carrying is OK. But then, NPS says you can’t discharge a firearm in a park. http://www.nps.gov/yell/parkmgmt/lawsandpolicies.htm
That said, I’d never suggest feeling that you’re safe because you’re “prepared” to take on a big bear with a handgun. Nor do I expect most people could hit a bear-size target – – – on the move – – – with a handgun. Anybody ever try hitting a washing machine-size target while it and/or the shooter is moving, and given the time (seconds) that a bear can close to kissing distance in.
I’d think the bacon theory is more likely to succeed.
Buzz
Zack,
Having abandoned full frame for the DX and the appropriate lenses, and then adding the D700, I’d point out that in all likelihood, you’ll not be entirely happy with the DX lenses on the D700. You just don’t get the full potential of the larger sensor. Then, you start looking at FX lenses. Bigger, heavier, more expensive. Great lenses, though.
If you compare a DX setup to a more/less equivalent FX setup, you’re looking at more/less doubling everything (again, bulk, price, etc).
But, if you need really wide shots (how far can you back up in a boat?) or low light (higher ISO), the D700 has it all over the DX bodies. At least that’s my opinion.
Just take a deep breath and sit down before you look at the prices of the (again, wonderful) Nikon FX lenses (12-24, 24-70, etc).
I’ve been really happy with D700. D300 too; a big step up from D200.
Incorporation of better and better video capabilities into newer bodies might sway you too.
Conversely, there’s a lot of interest in the mirrorless cameras, simply because of their smaller size. Some have a pretty broad series of lenses, some less so. Some EVFs, others not. Panasonic, Sony, Nikon, Oly, etc.
Options are great, no?
Buzz
For so many years, we anticipated the introduction of the next new rod, featuring the graphite, resin or whatever, that raised the bar. In every case, as far as I know, that improvement resulted in a price increase. Whether the technological improvement, or the felt/demonstrated performance improvement in fishing the rod, matched the price increase, was always a question. Regardless, today’s graphite rods are better (lighter, stronger, more durable) than earlier rods.
With all that as a given, I’d like to suggest another “rod that changed the world”, and that’s the one (or those) that legitimized bargain-priced rods. Once upon a time, a fisherman pretty much had to have a top end rod to have top end performance. That’s perhaps still true, if we’re again talking about that last 5% increment.
But, more and more, we’re seeing anglers fishing with “value rods”, and doing so without any feeling of inadequacy.
If we had to name a brand, for many it might be TFO, having really good rods, and a pro staff that includes several top tier anglers. Others might say Orvis, since they’ve had value-priced rods for years. Or Echo, with Tim Rajeff.
Regardless, I think the value-priced rods have done what many folks have said was at least part of what was needed to grow the business – – – make it more affordable to a larger group of anglers.
That was supposed to be “DON’T ask”. Actually, it’s worse than that, but it was a friend’s outfit, not mine. He had a nice graphite rod I’d built for him, 7-wt if I recall correctly, and a Hardy Princess reel. He was in eastern NC fishing for largemouth bass in Currituck Sound (back when that used to be famously good). Brought the outfit home, tossed it in the corner of his storage area, and there it sat for a long while. He knew he had a problem when the reel seat – – – the nickel silver reel seat – – – was frozen fast with corrosion. He couldn’t loosen it to get the reel off. Gave it back to me to fix. I soaked the reel seat in some sort of solvent a few days, and it actually came loose. The reel was a bit rougher. Corrosion had eaten into the reel foot a bit, into the paint on the frame, and also into the spool under the line. And, most problematic of all, the spool would turn freely, but was stuck fast on the frame. Stripped all the line/backing off, soaked everything in solvent again, and let it sit. Repeated the soak/sit for a few days, twisting and pulling each day. Finally it broke loose. Once I got the spool off, Icleaned it up the best I could. It actually worked fine, just had some permanent “beauty marks” on it. Lesson learned!
For context, this was “back in the day” when the choices were primarily Hardy Lightweights, Medalists, or the few who had a Fin Nor.
Multiple issues, mostly addressed. “Painted” (non-anodized) reels, such as the classic Hardy Lightweight series, can corrode pretty quickly in salt. They need attention right away (ask how I know). Well anodized reels are pretty close to bulletproof, and will resist corrosion for a long time.
If you catch fish that pull off backing, it (the backing) will soak up saltwater like a sponge (well, GSP not so much so). Reeling that salt back onto the reel simply traps/encases the salt in the tightly wound backing. Dunking the reel doesn’t remove much. Salt will coat and dry on the line too, and casting a line crusted with salt is about like casting a deep-fried line. Plus, in a fertile marine environment, there is plenty of phyto- and zooplankton, as well as other minerals, all of which can coat a fly line.
So . . . none of that makes me particularly anal about cleaning a reel during a trip. I’ll rinse/wipe off the line, and maybe the outside of the reel/rod, but that’s about it. At the end of the trip, after I’m home, I’ll do a pretty complete cleanup. I’ll strip off the line, and at least any backing that got wet. I do wash them in warm (not hot) water with some mild soap, and scrub things with an old tooth brush. I’ll then rinse well, wipe everything off, and let everything air dry completely. I’ll then regrease any bearings/bushings/shafts/drag plates/springs/etc, maybe using a drop of lighter oil in some places. I rewind the backing, and may/may not put the line back on the reel. Sometimes I store them in loose/larger coils. I have seen plenty of high $$$ reels have corrosion problems, but rarely are those on the larger, smoother surfaces. Mostly, the problems occur in the tight corners, joints, and/or where salt was captured by the backing (shows up in vent holes, under the backing on arbor, etc.). About the worst thing you can do is to put a reel back into a neoprene or other more/less waterproof bag when it’s damp. Then the corrosion has plenty of time to work its mischief. Don’t forget to wash out the reel bags, particularly if you’ve put the wet/salty reel in/out of the bag during a trip. No one way to skin the cat.
I’ve been using the Panasonic GF1, hoping for it to be a smaller alternative to take along when I didn’t want to carry a DSLR. Overall, I like it very much. It’s definitely not a pocket camera, but there are quite a few lenses available for it that allow it to cover things a typical P&S won’t. For instance, there’s a 7-14mm (14-28mm equiv in 35) that’s great. The LCD screen certainly isn’t a viewfinder of the likes of that of a DSLR, and is at its worst in bright light. There is an accessory hot-shoe mounted EVF, and it’s an improvement in bright light. The images are actually quite good. Given that it is half the size, and about half the price of DSLR equivalents, the image quality is far better than half as good. I’m pleased enough with it that I’ll probably get the soon-to-be-released GX1, relegating the GF1 to backup status.
So-o-o-o-o many choices!
Buzz
If you’re going with a guide (highly recommended, hugely increasing chance of success), just use his/her gear. Most expect clients, especially first timers, won’t have their own gear, and they will have first class outfits rigged for both right- and left-hand wind, set up for the fishing they plan on doing. They’ll have lines, leaders and KNOTS that work. They want you to succeed! Pick their brains on what they use and why, and then decide what you might want to buy. Might turn out that you don’t like tarpon fishing, and then you’ve invested an awful lot of cash . . .
Henry’s such a nice guy we made him an honorary Southerner . . . as long as he doesn’t speak.
He can’t help it, but once he starts talking, all that Yankee accent just comes out. Give him another couple of decades, and we’ll be able to passably understand him.
Buzz
Cameron,
About the only thing I can suggest is that you locate the nearest camera shop stocking several sizes of Pelican and heading there to try them out.
Just got a Droid 2 Global. Had a Blackberry Storm. Stayed with Verizon because of better coverage (my opinion) where I seem to be. Droid, being newer, has faster processor, more features, etc. Selling point to me (in addition to being global phone and faster) was choice of (larger!) keyboards, apps, (OK, and good sales pitch).
Like it. GPS (“Maps”) is good, and low-priced app BackCountry Navigator has good topos. Expect I’ll find flaws, but so far, it’s fine.
Jay,
Overall weight is indeed a potentially high $$$ item, and if the bag starts out weighing 12-15 pounds and up empty, it’s already accounted for 25%+ of the non-penalty weight.
Well, yeah, but not to fish for albies with. It was in the car, just in case we had a blow day, and needed something to occupy our time making hero casts.
For the first time in a few years, weather was great, we fished for albies, and the 5-wt stayed in the car. But the 8- and 9-wts got bent pretty much.
Not to diminish other rods, ’cause there are certainly plenty of very nice ones out there, but Rick Pope and the TFO crowd do seem to turn out rods that make you pat yourself on the back for being such a smart shopper to buy a rod that works so well at such a modest price.
Buzz
Rick Pope (along with others of the TFO gang, Shu and Jeff) visited us in NC for some albie fishing last week, and had sent/brought out the 8- and 9-wt BVKs to try. They are amazingly light (I had actually carried down a 5- and 8-wt, the former just for casting in case we got blown out of fishing), and kept thinking I had picked up the 5-wt when it was in fact the 8-wt.). Unloaded, they feel a touch stiff, but cast very well. Bunches of 8 lb and up albies were caught, and the rods did fine (again, the 8- and 9-wt). Chuck Laughridge had an 8-wt for a couple of weeks, and had landed several dozen albies on it.
I’d say the choice might depend on whether one wants a softer/slower or stiffer/faster type action, but they are light, well-designed, and finished well beyond their price point.
I can say that folks were not wanting to give them up after fishing with them, and that’s a pretty good indicator. (In the interest of full disclosure, yes, I didn’t go home w/o the 5- and 8-wt, and am convinced I’ll fish them happily).
Buzz
Adding a bit about “pulling” vs “lifting”. Some might say they’re the same, or very similar. I’d make the distinction that “lifting” is when fish is more straight down, and all you can do is to pull straight up, i.e., lift. It’s a vertical fight, such as fighting albies or other tunoids around the boat, when they tend to bore straight down and/or circle. “Pulling”, again as I’d make the distinction, is more of a horizontal (two-dimensional) situation, such as shallow water fishing or simply fighting a fish that doesn’t sound. In the latter situation, you can usually get a better (shallow) angle on the fish (tarpon vs tuna). The BVK isn’t designed as a lifting rod (get a glass/graphite composite such as the TFO Bluewater if that’s your primary game), but it does pretty well. It’s more of a pure casting/fishing rod, and does that extremely well, again depending upon your action preferences.
