bryan hulse
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I honestly can’t say. The fishing, that particular weekend, was kind of tough; I wasn’t catching a lot period. And, I didn’t do any side by side comparisons.
I’ll give them another try my next time out, which hopefully will be all of next weekend, and let you know something more definitive.
I don’t fish a Prince often enough to say one way or another. I’ve fished one time and caught one on a muddler. Midging is my favorite form of trouting, but I fish so little these days that not
Pheasant tails in 16’s and 18’s. On smaller hooks like that the sequins look kind of like the shields vets fit around dogs necks to keep them from….
That’s a great example. I’ve never had much success with that one, either. But, I’ve found that if I use it along mudlines after a rain I get a few more bumps.
Kid,
Listen to Zach’s second podcast with Mike A, it covers streamer tactics for large trout.
As for line choice, I think a full sinking line would be overkill in most situations. An exception for where you are might be run-off. For the rest of the year an intermediate line would be fine; I would base my decision on water depth and current speed.
The rest is kind of like everything else about fly fishing for trout. You’ll find something you are comfortable with and that works 80 or 90% of the time, and for the exceptions you’ll have to experiment i.e. weighted vs unweighted, dead drift vs stripping, varying retrieves, that stuff.
As for when to use them, I’ve been fishing with friends who caught trout on woolly buggers at the same time I was hooking up on dries. As a general rule though, I use them for hunting bigger fish or when I don’t see any visible signs of feeding.
I’m sorry I don’t have any toppings to go on that vanilla response.
Splitshot
I’ve done well with para-adams and bushy attractor patterns–stimulators, wulf patterns, big ehc, humpies, etc.
I had two F’s and an F2 in college. I used to literally drive nails with the F2/motor combo because I didn’t own a hammer. Also had a Nikkor 50/1.2. That lens was tack sharp from edge to edge and super fast; it was some kind of chunky, though.
You got the scanner thing working. I’ve been tying copper flies for a few years. I first tied them for red fishing, which they do great for. But, I’ve also caught bass and trout with them as well. I use dumbbell
That fly was enlarged about 350%.
Did you notice that none of Peter’s messages had anything to do with fly fishing or fly tying? ::)
Thanks, but I’m not that smart. My fishing buddy Dave Daily–who is the best tier I personally know–passed that on to me years ago.
The following is for you, Mike. A size 28 parachute midge. The detail isn’t spectacular, but again, it is relatively easy to do.
All of your podcasts have been very informative, Zach. Your comment to Rick Pope about fly fishing really being a niche market and therefore not really taking a lot of jobs away from anyone was something I had never thought about.
The John Wilson interview was excellent. He is very engaging
Rusty,
Something that is inexpensive, and you can do it indoors, and will help you get a pretty good idea on where you are stopping your rod on the back and forward strokes, your tracking and drift, is to use a laser pointer. Of course, it isn’t going to help any with learning that “feel”, but it should help with your mechanics.
I think the following is a great looking boat. I spoke with the owner and he assured me it would hold up well for river travel. It is about twice as much as the Gheenoe and RiverHawks, which I think is a little spendy for a suped up canoe.
Outdoor Research makes a pretty cool, Gore Tex hat that would meet most of your criteria. They are about $40 at REI, but considerably less from sources like Campmor and Sierra Trading Post.
Rusty,
You might want to consider starting out with a soft-sided travel pack until you have the room and your little boy isn’t so much of a worry. Orvis, JW Outfitters, LL Bean–several companies make systems with zip lock sleeves, pockets, bindings, tubes for organizing threads, hook boxes, etc. that are large enough to accommodate most everything you would need for several years of tying dozens and dozens of different patterns. When not in use it can be stored in a drawer or closet. Eventually you will want something portable, this way you start out with portability and something that is practical for the here and now.
Bryan
