Zach Matthews
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Well, and of course, if the company is no longer in business, then there will be no warranty repairs on T&T rods.
Brian –
At this point I have just heard what amount to rumors, but they’re from credible sources in the industry.
Guys we’ve been put on a slight hold while we wait for the Olympics to wrap up on Tim’s podcast; I had a guest lined up for this week but he got humble and decided he didn’t want to be interviewed.
Hey Henry –
Those are great shots; very commercial.
I’m sure you know this but it’s worth thinking over again.
Yeah, you’re basically just looking for something to take the local point-loads of the engine clamps off the transom, and distribute those out over a wider surface (so they don’t punch into your glass work).
I agree with Dave; most transom-mount motors have a pair of adjustable clamps kind of like a fly vise, right?
Dusty –
Bounce the flash directly off the ceiling. With a little kid you’ll have a lot of fill to make up (because he’s low to the ground) so you might want to punch it up some. If you hammer someone in the face with flash, you will [s:3nmuc96x]make them cry[/s:3nmuc96x] make them look like they live in a cave. But if you bounce off something white (ceilings are perfect), you can get a really nice, diffuse effect. In that situation I would shoot at ISO800 with my flash pumped to +1.0 and aimed straight up.
Zach
If you set your flash to ‘slow sync’ (not sure what it’s called on Canon), then it will fire at the end of the exposure, thus getting you appropriate background saturation but freezing the action. Whenever I am trying to hit a moving target indoors, that’s what I do; there may be blur, but it will be “behind” the action. You see this all the time in National Geographic; for some reason they love that effect, I suspect because it conveys motion.
Also, and not to plug a competing brand, but ever since the new Nikon D700 came out, the indoor ISO performance on those cameras has gotten ridiculous.
There are two problems with furled leaders. But first, they definitely do help with turnover; they’re stiffer and thicker than regular leaders and thus they carry the energy of the line out to the fly more efficiently.
The issues, though, are (1) the leaders spray water during false casting and (2) they’re a lot more visible. By their very nature as a braid, they unavoidably catch and carry water, which can spray off a surprising distance, thus alerting fish. But more importantly, we have to consider what a leader is for. It’s clear and thin to hide the line, and thus the angler, from the fish. When you braid mono together, you are basically guaranteed to refract light from one angle of the braid or another. So, to a fish, the braid appears to be a bright, white line pointing from the fly to the angler.
Let’s not fool ourselves; regular leaders have this problem too. But furled leaders are worse.
In my opinion, they’re great for flies like large bass bugs that are hard to turn over, especially when the bass themselves are in murky water and not all that likely to be alarmed by the line/angler. But, for dry fly fishing to spooky trout rising in clear water, I’d avoid them. I think they will cost you fish.
Zach