Jon Conner
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Bunk slicks are made of some slippery plastic but with a boat as light as yours it won’t be that big a deal. I would recommend some “bearing buddies” or something similar that exerts positive pressure inside the hub to
Great motor, by the look of the skeg its never really been used, I have that same basic thing in the 15hp configuration, ten years old now and still starts first pull, and it has been really used.
JCDon’t even think about trying to resurrect that old motor, it was junk when it was new, get a four stroke, quiet, fuel efficient, no oil smell or mixing and no maintenance to speak of. Speaking from experience.
JCHere’s anothe option, check out Leland and Red Truck, they have some very nice looking clicker reels.
JCSince DTs don’t have much variation in actual design, I would say buy the one with the texture, stiffness and feel that you like, but you can’t go wrong with either Cortland or SA.
JCI got the line yesterday and went out and cast it in the snow, throws like a shooting head, plus I think I could loop on a section of fast sink and it would still be civilized. I am going to like this line for its designated purpose but I don’t think delicacy is going to be one of its strong points,
David,
As an addendum, a normal TT line has a head length of thirty six to forty feet with the first thirty pretty close to AFTMA standard weight, they also make a TT nymph line with a twenty seven ft head which might be more up the alley of what you’re looking for, I haven’t tried one, but I have a six on order now for chucking weighted nymphs with the more compact head.These line have a very heavy short head made for single hand spey techniques, I don’t think they should be considered for normal overhead casting.
JCA lot of the same rules should be applied. Plus you may learn something even more interesting than what rod to buy next.
JC
http://mobile.slate.com/articles/life/drink/2011/11/why_you_should_be_drinking_cheap_wine.htmlMy take on rods in general is that they are like wine, they are all basically made of the same stuff, can be generally made to perform the same way, but as you go up the price scale they’re more aesthetically pleasing in feel and looks,
Back to floatation, you can get two part Coast Guard approved foam that will expand to fill your compartments with no gaps, otherwise there will always be moisture in there causing the usual problems unless they are vented when off the water. As for your decks, you don’t need to glass the undersides, just coat thoroughly with epoxy, and the edges too, that will seal them as well as anything. When installing the decks, mix epoxy with wood flour to the consistency of peanut butter and fill all the edge gaps prior to laying out the glass, that will keep it from hingeing in the joint and eventually breaking, then if you foam your voids it will give the structure a lot of stiffness and prevent the hull from squashing out when when under stress.
Have fun,
JCReally nice job, you should submit some pictures to the Wooden Boat “Launchings” page, you might get a little free exposure.
JCI have Smith straight lines mounted in regular wire frames, they set the closeup lens low so it does interfere as much and I’ve been very happy with them. I also have a pair of single vision wrap arounds, which, although they are great while actually fishing, are a giant PITA when you need to change a fly and have to get your readers over or under and keep your hat from falling off and then the readers slip down etc., I’m totally done with that stuff, and I see no advantage to progressives for our purposes.
Wading with bifocals is a challenge, and it isn’t cured completely by head angle, age has something to with it also.
Good luck,
JCRubber with plenty of cleats is just as good as felt, I have Patagonias and have a combination of carbide studs and aluminum screws. The screws wear fairly quickly but are easy to replace. The key to the whole thing is to have lots of them, I have twenty five to thirty total per boot, depending on how many I’ve lost lately. I think I will not buy more of the carbide studs and just get steel screws for a fraction of the price, the aluminum screws are what really grip smooth rock and steel or carbide will bite through weeds and grip rough rock but slide like skates on smooth stuff.
JCIt may seem unbelievable today, but even in the eighties there really wasn’t anything to suggest that fishing in saltwater required special equipment. I can’t remember what reel I used for my first bonefish, but I remember getting a Hardy Zenith and then a Marquis which I used till I started striper fishing in the mid nineties. Drags were not part of our vocabulary until relatively recently unless you were talking about a Bogdan.
JCThis is an interesting thread, especially since Scott seems to be a main subject and they’re what I’ve used primarily for thirty plus years now. I was just thinking about the various eight weights Ive owned starting in the late eighties with a G958, nineties, an STS 1008, and anHP888, and more recently an S3 958, and an S3 1008 and thinking about how much improvement there was along the way. Jumping from the G to the STS was huge in terms of power and refinement and then the S3 was just so much smoother and nicer casting, another big jump, but then we have the HP, same vintage as the STS, a direct decendant of the G series, this rod was, is, and will probably always be one of the best casting rods ever.
The point is though, that there is a lot of refinement going on, it just isn’t year to year, it’s almost like decade to decade if you want to see meaningful increments of change, and then there are rods that stand out over time, defying obsolescence.
JC
