Douglas Barnes
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Thanks Olle, DB, Zach, and Dave. I was talking to a friend about this image and wondered what kind of message it sends about proper fish handling. The carp is more than 12″ above the surface, inverted, and appears to be under too much grip pressure.
It was then pointed out to me that at least the fish is being supported with both talons, so it’s probably OK. 🙂
If that ‘s a bubba eagle he’s just going to take it home, show it to the misses, then wrap the fish in tin foil and throw it into the icebox anyway. What a waste….. :'(
Will,
I hear what you’re saying and I’m not arguing the merits of trapping & triggering vs stalking & slogging. Hell, I’m a commercial/corporate guy so ‘au natural’ doesn’t usually cut it in my biddness anyway. In fact we used the exact same triggers etc to catch high speed images of arrows going through apples for clients like Hoyt and Easton Alum.
Wow! Now that is a killer first report Tim … Can not wait for all of the others! It does indeed hunt!
No, not the hunter, OMG it’s over. 😎
Great report Tim! That’s the first thing I wanted to read yet the last thing I needed on a bleak winter N. Hemisphere day! Excellent!
db
He’s obviously never fished with a Kiwi guide where its all about the stealth & spotting. Interesting…
Okay, I stand corrected. That shot could have been pulled off with a wild animal & said trigger like those guys and the snow leopard. Those dudes deserves some cred.
But with the remote doohicky, and especially the obvious flash (which isn’t mentioned in the exposure info, as it should) it just doesn’t have that Frans Lanting
I wonder, just wonder, if the judges looked at that image and said to themselves, “gee, dude was really lucky to be standing there in the dark with his tool set on high iso next an off camera soft box powered up, synced, and ready to go’ right by that classic & picturesque gate when big bad wolf decided to jump over, cool-e-ooo! first place fer sure..” ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for posting that Michael. Judges liked it’s ‘fairytale quality’. Well, they got that right! 😀
Good stuff.
Dividers all the way. I’ve used pelican cases for years and own a few still.
That foam is good if you have a case dedicated to specific gear as it offers a firmer fit for travels on airplanes, etc. But it flakes off little pieces of black ‘foam crumbs’ over time which is bad mojo for digital. And once you cut your shape you can’t go back. :-/
Dividers on the other hand are don’t flake off and are adjustable. Plus you can get light blue or yellow as your color which is easier to use when it’s dark out. Hope this helps.
db
I really dig that first shot of Nick, that guy ties some of the sickest streamer meat around. Excellent detail and lighting queues, I’m guessing that shot will turning up in published form soon.
I agree on all counts.
Congrats Brett on your ‘Midcurrent’ debut!
I think number 1 and 3 are great, with number 2 my eyes don’t really find a subject.
Olle
C’mon Olle, admit it…. you were focused on the Camel Toe! 😉
I wasn’t then but I am now. LOL ;D
Good stuff JM!
Benjamin, Cool images! They look pretty sharp at this size but it’s hard to tell. Looking at your exposure info, I notice you shot these at a wide aperture (f4.5) @ under a second. As a rule of thumb, most lenses are sharpest two stops down from maximum. And shutter speeds from 1/15th-1 sec are pretty dicey on any tripod, it’s that ‘in between’ blur zone I like to avoid in night stuff. My suggestion is try stopping down to f/11 and compensate with shutter speed so you’re shooting more like two or three second exposures. Given your support is solid and there’s no wind, this makes the ‘shutter bump’ a much smaller fraction of the total time and less likely to affect sharpness. You might check your manual for a Canon equiv of Nikon’s “exposure delay mode” which pauses the camera after mirror up for a split second before the shutter does it’s thing. Very useful! Back in the day (10yrs ago LOL when I shot the example below) on really still nights with multi second exposures, solid gitzos and 4×5 Sinars, I’d hold a black card in front( but not touching) the lens, fire the camera w/cable, then swiftly/gently pull the card away after the shutter was open and I knew the camera was settled (usually one or two secs) then freeze for the remaining ten or sixty. This still works in a pinch.
Benjamin there are a dozen or more reasons why some images might not be turning out the way you want or expect. It would really help us to help you if you were to post an image sometime by way of example and include the exif.
Possible causes and possible solutions
Mirror Slap…..mirror lock up
Shake…higher SS, better technique, open the lens, tripods etc
AA filter ( The AA fliter in the 7D is strong) this requires more capture sharpening.
User error/ camera error. As good as the 7D is, you might be asking too much of it
etc
etcCouldn’t agree more and that’s exactly what I say when asked the same kinds of questions. Without specific examples it’s quite hard to judge the cause. It would help if you posted some jpgs of your ‘blurry’ and ‘sharp’ images w/exif data. We’ll go from there.
db
I agree with Ben & David. Shoot color RAW RGB then convert in PS. You’ll have a lot more control in the end. You can google ‘black and white conversion actions’ or something like that and find several free PS action downloads.
db
Thanks Zach & Phil! That podcast completely rocked! Learned so much I had to listen twice. Major props for putting that all together.
db
Doesn’t look like a vast improvement over the old. From dpreview:
“Although outwardly similar to its predecessor, the new lens features a revised optical design, incorporating a fluorite element and no fewer than 5 UD elements for the correction of chromatic aberrations. The minimum focus distance has been reduced to 1.2m, with a corresponding increase in maximum magnification to 0.21x. The mechanical design has also been modified, with the most obvious external change being a wider focusing ring.”
No big whoop.
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For the rim light, is that basically just another flash placed behind the subject pointed at the camera? Anything special about aiming it or setting the exposure on it?
Yes but usually high, behind, and pointing at the subject. Adds a little separation between you and the background. Power up or down, then gel to taste. Hope this helps.
db
