Douglas Barnes
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You should really ask a local. My buddy Steve Buckner is quite the guru and can steer you in the right direction. He lives there. Call him:
http://www.northwestflyfisherman.com/
Good luck and be sure to post some pics.
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Thanks Tim! I called and talked to Randy who in turn is trying to connect us with Chris. He sounded enthusiastic. This could be good!
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.. I do always keep one with with me as well as a few ND’s, and one gnd plate…
Good point! Always bring ’em along, (even if not permanently attached). Filters and filter brackets are light and small compared to other non mandatory equipment. Plus, they can make a big difference when least expected.
🙂
Call me crazy (or simply the Devil’s advocate) but I only use filters when I absolutely need them, especially polarizers. The 2+ stop penalty combined with the contrast robbing results of extra glass layers make me think twice about leaving it on full time. Sure, I’ll screw one on when its raining & I want to reduce reflections perhaps, or other times to increase shutter speed/aperture for creative effect, etc (like John Bennet’s excellent example above). Once in a while I’ll use a ND grad (or two) when a little evening-out is required. But only then, really. Outdoor photographer guru Thom Hogan (who rarely uses them) writes: “Filters always rob a bit of light (and in some cases, a lot of light), increase flare tendencies, and add to your equipment cost…”
My advise John S. is to use them but do so selectively, carefully, and ALWAYS use a lens hood. As you know, no amount of filters will turn mid day sun into golden hour light.
my 2cents.
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Curtis, what I meant is @ 85,000 captures in a starting role my D700 has seen a lot of playing time and will have to come in off the bench soon. When I take them to 125k, it’s time to retire them and that’s when I re-up. But you’re right, it’s a fantastic tool and the first camera I grab on any assignment. Especially for people or if it’s going to be a long day (the viewfinder is sooooooo much bigger and better on full frame which make a huge difference after putting up to your eye 1000 times).
Zach, I agree with you about the grip and hope they stay with a removable one on the D400/800. I believe they will. Having the option to go small when when you want to save weight, then the ability to slap on a grip when you want comfortable vertical shooting or more horsepower is cool. Plus, the same grip works on both the 300 and 700. Hopefully they’ll do that again too! And yes, the F100 was legendary! I never had one (the last 35mm film bodies I owned were D90s’s) but a buddy of mine did. Solid!
I’m thinking 21mp for the D400, and the D800 going 24mp. My D700 is in it’s Autumn years so I’ll prolly get the new full frame (D800) if it’s got a Nikon’s sensor.
Zach, do you ever read Thom Hogan’s stuff? He’s got some great commentary on the subject.
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Dave,
 What is dry shake actually containing? ..
EricEric, it’s fumed silica epoxy. Mostly used as a thickener for marine use adhesives etc. $6 buys you a lifetime supply. I bought mine six or so yrs ago and haven’t made a dent. Link:
technically it is not epoxy.
It is fumed silica. Â
Ah, thanks Dave!
Either way, it comes in a plastic bag so the hard part is getting the stuff out of the bag and into a jar without turning your house into a Superfund site…lol.
Sorry for the hijack fellas..
Dave,
 What is dry shake actually containing? ..
EricEric, it’s fumed silica epoxy. Mostly used as a thickener for marine use adhesives etc. $6 buys you a lifetime supply. I bought mine six or so yrs ago and haven’t made a dent. Link:
… Â You should be able to pick up a decent roll top dry bag in any outdoors store. Â Simms makes a nice one too, but pretty pricey for what it is: http://www.simmsfishing.com/site/dry_creek_camera_bag_09.html#.
….Tim, I have that exact bag and its great for my LX3. (I agree, too exp- although I picked mine up on the last day of the Outdoor Retailers show a few yrs ago for free..=). Has padding inside as well-BTW. Pretty sweet! I simply put it on my waist belt (if wearing waders), or on the hip belt/strap of my WJ Exodus pack during summer. Lightweight, handy, waterproof. Perfect!
Holy shee-ite! Fantastic TR! Those bones are huge! Great stuff Tim and thanks for taking the time to write and post this. I’ll be coming back again to drool, often… 😛
As to your question, I wouldn’t recommend the Nikkor 18-200VR. I owned (the old version) and wasn’t too impressed with it’s sharpness, focus speed, or build. However, the new one’s supposed to be better.
May I suggest Nikkors 16-85mm-VR and 70-300mm-VR for your new DX body. I have them both and they constantly amaze me. Sharp as hell. Sturdy yet light. Only $600-700 each. Toss in a Nikkor 12-24mm and/or a fast 85mm prime and you’ve got yourself a good range. You can pick up some close focus filters if you want to get all macro’d up (for a lot less than buying a macro lens, link below). This set up is what I take fishing and my Nikkor 14-24mm/24-70mm/80-200mm 2.8’s (read-heavy and expensive) are reserved for architecture/indoor/studio stuff.
http://www.pictureline.com/lenses/hoya/close-up-filter-sets.html
Hope this helps.
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Paul, Sorry to learn of your theft, BTW. >:(
Good advise so far. I just wanted to throw in Thom Hogan’s link while we’re looking at online opinion blogs. He’s a Nikon guy with great info and lots of real world experience. Bonus, he doesn’t include as much hyperbole or reviews of 20yr old equipment… 😉
I check it once a week at least.
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