Daryl Human
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According to my brother, this is the appropriate fly for trout that won’t bite:
Amazing that he hasn’t been tying in prison yet…
HAHA, can only imagine what the farmer would say if I walked through his paddocks with one of those in my hand.
Hey Dazza,
I agree with Marc, now days when in the South Island I steer away from the ‘reccommended’ flies and give them something small & simple.
I hardly use a Pheasant tail or hare & copper nymph anymore and my go to nymph is size 16 dull green , no tail and a small brass wire rib.
It still looks like ‘food’ but nothing too specific.
The same with dries, I will go a size 16- 18 simple CDC or DHE emerger, or para adams .
Also go to a longer leader say 15′ with a long 6x tippett say 18-20′ in total. While this can be tricky to turn over ( practice practice )when presented well, this will give a better and longer drag free drift .Show us a pic when you get one hey !!
Howdy Andrew,
I’ll have to make some adjustments to my leader/tippet. I’m only fishing a 12′ leader/tippet.
I got a couple the other day on an #18 H&C, but after that I’ve been out 2 more times, and they are flat out refusing anything, even the super #16 Klinkhammers that my good friend Mike McKeown tied up.
I’ve also tried Stimulators, but no reaction to them.
I guess you are right Lando, its got to be perfect everytime.
On one drift, I watched 22″ fish follow the fly on the drift, must’ve been 6ft. Nothing!I’ll give your idea a go Marc!
John, its a 2 piece! What line/s are you using on yours?
I’m thinking of getting a Sci Anglers XPS line for it, but not sure if it will suit. Other options are the Sharkskin or Rio. Anyone using any of these lines on their “G” series?Learning lots from your posts Neal! Nice fly!
We use CDC on Klinkhammers for the streams in South Africa.Been taking a few more – think I’m getting somewhere:
The legs on the fly have faded a little, not totally blurred 🙂
Not to great, but I’m least seeing what Neal and Morsie were talking about re the background. Neal, you are right, this is addictive.
Got a reply from Scott:
“It looks sounds like an old “G” series, but without actually seeing the rod it is hard to say as it doesn’t have an identifying series mark on it. Rods that are custom built are often hard to identify if the builder didn’t inscribe the rod with the series of the blank. The “G” series rods that were factory built had cocobolo reel seats and standard nickel-silver guides, with a rust brown colored thread wrap. Hope this info is of some assistance.”Couldn’t get a good enough picture. Will try again tonight.
Guys, I found another auction.
Its for older model SAGE RPL rods that belonged to a fly fishing academy. They are selling @ US$70
How does that sound? Considering get 1.I think I have the same rod, probably same era. Actually, I have three of them in different weights. It’s probably an original G. A San Francisco Rod. You got a steal. Don’t hide it away, use it. You will be pleasantly suprised that those old rods fish just as good or better in some instances that todays high end flashy sticks. Do you have the tube? Does it say SF on it?
Love the comment about “finally getting a real rod!” That’s what I say to my friends that don’t fish Scott G’s!
Its got a tube, but its clearly a home made version (not a really great one at that). Another reason why I suspect that this could well be a custom.
Nope, its not exactly the same as the writing above, which is why I initially thought it was custom built. I will try and take a pic of it later on.
Wow, I’m stoked at this bargain!Zach, there were a whole lot of deceased estate auctions earlier this month here in Wellington – apparently a good place to find bargains on gear.
Dizzy, you finaly own a real fishing rod, nice one my son…
🙂 Its been on my list for a while now!
Incidently, I was an auction the other day (never had cash on me so I couldn’t bid), and they sold a Thomas & Thomas, 2 cane rods, and a Winston for less than $65 each. A bag of miscelaneous fly tying feathers sold for more.
I am with Bob. You have almost certainly got a Scott G on your hands (G906 would be a standard “G” in 9-foot six weight). The “glassi-ness” you are seeing is most likely the unsanded gray blank. Does it have spiral wraps on it, like a snake belly? That’s a classic hallmark of the G series (including the current G2). Most old Gs were wrapped in ruby red with a composite cork cap on the front of the grip (also found on the G2).
That’s a very coveted rod.
Zach
Thanks I will make sure its a G and not a 6. It looks to be hand written as if it was a custom built rod. Yep, its got the spiral wraps, and the wraps are ruby red and it has the composite cork cap on the grip (in place of a winding check?)
I will also send the model number off to Scott and see what they say.
Only paid $65 for it, think I scored a bargain?
Thanks for the replies
Cool, thats what I was struggling with, and exactly what I needed to know.
Thanks a million Neal.
I will go and practice now!Ok, cool, I get what you are saying now. :-[
That simplifies it a whole lot ;DPS. Zach, where do I pay my membership fees?
Hi Morsie,
I’m limited in terms of lens, as mine on goes down to F4, so if I am understanding this correctly, I will not be able to achieve that result with my 17-85mm EFS F4/5.6 on my DSLR? I am more likely to achieve a total “blur” with my P & S that goes down to f2.8? Hope I am understanding this correctly?
Daryl
Thanks Neal!
How do they make the backgrounds black. I can see this done in a lab environment where I could shoot with a green or blue background and replace the color. But on stream, this is not always at my disposal.I’ve picked up a few things in my pics – using your list to analyze them, and had I had a your list before I posted them, they would not have gotten any “airtime”.
Thanks again for your advice and assistance!
Ok, so I took a couple more. Would be good to know if there is any improvement, but bearing in mind, these were shot indoors.
