brian primeau
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I would add to John’s point about Ontario’s licensing that our system has two licensing levels. 1 for Conservation (roughly $10 less) and 1 for regular. The regular license”Sportfishing” allows you to take up to the regulated limits 6 Whalleye for example, and the Conservation license allows maybe 2.
It appears to be a great system but since the money goes into the general coffers it means that the conservation officer still runs out of his gas budget half way through the month.The people doing the lions share of conservation, rehab etc. are the Trout Unlimiteds et al.
I have been guiding since 2003 and have never been “Carded” by a C/O. I simply do not see Conservation Officers on the water.Back when I was a teen we didn’t have a licensing system at all, It started in the 70’s if I recall. Everyone was upset at the time because now we had to pay for fishing – the fishing clubs and organizations wanted to boycott the licensing unless the funds were to be sent directly to the MNR. My understanding is that they were for a while but pre existing funds were redirected and replaced with the licensing money. Now even the licensing money goes into general funds. I think that is the definition of a slippery slope!
So be careful what you wish for Zach. Redirect the license fees and kiss it all goodbye.
Thanks John, His photos are amazing.
Morsie, I would be more than happy to personally deliver some Canadian Ice for your beer. Just say when and where.FYI, I used to ice fish regularly and on three seperate occasions have had trout rise in nearby ice holes where fishermen had left their dead and dying minnows. We thought we were crazy the first time but one day it happened three times as we watched a big splash in an otherwise deserted hole.
The minnows circle inside the hole and some never figure it out. I think that cruising fish figure the whole thing out after a time and look for the holes in the ice.
The seagulls have it figured out as well.
I know guys at Lake Simcoe who have had mink swim from shore into their ice huts!
Not sure if the shot is setup or not but….there is plenty of bait laying in and around ice holes.Hey John, looks like you finally hooked up. Are you finished with him cuz the are two weeks left in the bow season and I still have a tag.
Just sayin… 😉
Good for you John, I know you paid the price.Seriously though I am off between the 24th and 30th (1 guide TBA) if you want to get together and do some shooting….or some shooting…Or some shooting of some shooting. ;D
Or just beers. Gimmeacall.Jarrod, I am not doubting your ability to toss a line. I can understand if your client can’t feel your rod load especially if you use a stiff rod and it makes perfect sense that you overline it if that is the case. Great that you identified his issue and fixed it. Good on you.
I will never argue that it can’t or should not be done to overcome a particular technical issue that you face. That’s being creative and that’s what guides are, creative.
I just reread your post because I was under the impression that you overlined many of your rods. I was mistaken, you were speaking generally. I am sorry. 🙂
However some have indicated that they do this as a matter of regularity.
We all know the reasons for choosing a particular line. If my fishing demands a 4 wt line and I buy a 4 wt rod then have to buy a 5 wt line to load it there is a problem Houston!
But Jarrod I think it will be a majority soon who will be overlining rods due to E-bay and such as purchasers are less likely to have cast the rod prior to purchasing over the internet /mail order etc. If the rod doesn’t work well what else can you do? Overline it.Here is a link to Tom Morgan (Winston Rods) in a discussion about rods and rod action.
http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/sources/special/morgan.php
NOTICE (not for those not wanting to waste their time in trivial fingerling dialogue that’s been hashed over before we got here)Here’s the Cole’s notes –
Most rods are too fast – you can overline them to fix it / or you can buy a rod with the right action for you. Many people would toss a slow action rod better but rod manufacturers promote rods that blast through a parking lot as “the best, longest casting etc.)90% of my fish are within 20 feet! Just sayin… 😉
So to partially answer your question Jarrod, my quest over the last few years is to have one line while guiding (Browns) and not have to change back and forth from dry to nymph. I used to carry a GPX and a Nymph Taper. Neither did both well, the GPX didn’t roll or mend well and the Nymph felt heavy and splashed down too hard with a dry. Two years ago I tried the Wulff Nymph taper and it rolled/ mended well at a distance and landed delicately overhand with a dry. Last year I tried the Sharkskin and it worked equally as well.(Same taper as Distance taper but LOUDER)
You might like either as they are slightly heavier than a “Normal” WF line if there is such a thing.
CheersMike, I couldn’t agree more but would like to add as well that for some reason the public (at least many that I have guided) seem to have an idea that a fast action rod is a better rod, then I hear how they go to lengths to mess with the lines to get a better cast!
In 20+ years of fly fishing I have never had to add a line weight to a rod other than when playing with a cane rod trying to line it up with modern lines.
What is wrong with a soft action rod? Everyone wants a Z Axis these days and before that it was XP and BII. Those are great rods but fast fast fast for most to cast. I would certainly use a rod like that on the Salt or if I ripped streamers or needed the distance but like you said changing lines changes the dynamics of the rod.Jarrod, now days you can pretty much trust that a 6 wt rod wants to cast a 6wt line. If it doesn’t feel good that’s your arm telling you not to get that rod. Your arm is not subject to advertizing or whatever your buddy recommends.
I think that if you need to overweight a rod then you are looking for a slower rod. XP + 1 line = SLT. that kind of thing.
Next time you are at the fly shop test out a G2 or an Orvis anything with a mid flex.
If you have the idea that a slower rod is not as good as a fast rod, nothing could be further from the truth. A slower rod tends to be more forgiving, easier to roll cast, delicate on tippets and accurate.
If your experimentation is in the context of Spey lines….I take back everything I said. 😀
Best of luck.Rich, don’t ask me why but even with the line jumping issue I really love the weight, drag and performance of the ULA but I will not be getting one for salt water.
Rich, I own a litespeed 3.5, ULA force #2 and owned the Velocity 1.5 for 1 year.
Between guiding and fishing well over 100 days per year I can tell you that any of the above reels work great and all have the same drag.
All are a good value for the money but here is the rundown in my mind.
Velocity 1.5 – I guided one year with the Velocity and at that price point it is a great reel – light, tough and smooth but truly a mid arbour campared to the ULA or Litespeed – no issues but I really liked looking at the ULA so I sold my Velocity and got one.ULA force 2 – I guided with it last season and absolutely love it. Nothing on the planet with a drag is as light. The ULA”P” is lighter but has no drag, something I can’t do without because I rig my line up for my clients so I don’t waste time and need the drag for them as much as I like it for myself. Summers and late season here means 6x and 7x tippets and flies to #30. I like the drag especially with light tippets because my finger friction on the line is not as delicate as the light drag on the reel. Some people say you don’t need a drag on a 4wt but try handling line with 7x tippets and you’ll see what I mean. You need a drag and a darn good (read smooth) one!
My only issue with the reel is that because it is not a full framed reel, occasionally the line jumps off the side of the spool if there is slack in it and it will stop the reel dead in its tracks. That has not cost me a fish yet but I expect it to happen and look out for it. The arbour is huge for the size of the reel so even with my 4wt line on it it won’t take much backing. You won’t get more than 1 or 2 levels of backing on it. (I like the look of bright backing in photos) With the huge arbour I seldom have to strip line when a fish runs at me, at least not as often as I did with the Velocity.Hey John, just followed a link here and there you are!
Thanks for the welcome.
I am just figuring my way around this site. Have not seen photos yet but I will take a peek. Feel free to PM any suggestions. I’d like to take a look at some nice photography.
You can borrow my G2 any time John and I’ll take your picture for a change! With a 24″ Brown on the business end. Next summer – Cahills! 😀I manage a shop in Canada (carrying Scott) and last year was definately challenging for Scott and I hope they are through it, but there are three ways of dealing with it as a consumer.
1) don’t buy a Scott rod for fear that they will not be here IF something goes wrong with your rod.
2) purchase your rod because it is a great rod, and on the assumption that they will prosper for years.
3) purchase your rod on the assumption that you will never get a chance to own one again!
Our shop made adjustments to work with the issues at Scott last year and we are in a better position regardless of what they do. But regardless of the past and future “I aint giving up my G2 any time soon!”
Like was said earlier, these company’s change models every 5 years or so. Didn’t we scream when Sage ended LL, then SP.
Until G2! Get one before it gets away! I don’t miss those others.
