anonymous
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David, I like having 3-4 of the Griffin Supreme Ceramic Bobbins around for different colored threads. The ceramic insert is a nice feature.
My main bobbin is a Rite Bobbin with adjustable tensioner, and I keep it spooled with Danville Fly-Master Olive thread. I use that one thread for the majority of trout nymphs and dries in my guiding. The weight of the bobbin is just right for flipping it over the back side of the vice and keeping perfect tension on the thread for me. I like the regular shank lengths.
Sure looks like the same fish, Tim. An inch a month is very possible. Don’t know about two inches. Would depend on water quality, temperature, habitat, food availability and competition. Looking forward to other responses.
Neat photos.
PS, small heads and steep shoulders usually indicate fast growth rates.
I’m sure you’ll get a more complete answer from Scott or David, but here’s a short one in the meantime.
This link shows an example of an off camera flash hot shoe cord, from Nikon:
http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=4765
The advantage is that it gives you a lot more flexibility with lighting your subject for a good photo. In particular, it’s very helpful to move the flash away from the camera when photographing people, so you don’t end up with “red eye” or with harsh shadows on a wall behind your subject.
Dusty, Mick covered it. I use it a lot for macro often with a tripod. And just hand hold the flash at whatever angle I want for effect (usually about 45 degrees).
Big Agnes Seedhouse — no reason to look further. One pound 12 ounces with fly. Check it out:
Sorry, no time for pictures but I will try to explain.
Start by taking hanks of the material, when you pull it tight, you want it to be about the diameter of a pencil lead.
Now tie in the first hank on the top of the hook halfway down the shank. As you tie it in, try to spin the material so that it covers the top 180 degrees of the hook. This will take a little practice but it really isn’t that hard. Make sure the first hank is tied in as long as you want the finished fly to be.
Next step is to tie in another hank of material. This time you want to move up the shank slightly and tie it in on the bottom 180 degrees. Now, on of the most important aspects…..when you trim this second hank, make sure it’s as long as the first hank. In fact, every hank I tie in is as long as the very first.
Now continue tying in hanks in this fashion until you’ve covered the hook and have about 1/8″ of exposed hook left between your materials and the eye.
Next step is to comb out all your fibers, and to then cut your basic bait fish shape. Once your finished you can start the long slow process of trimming. Now this trimming is what I was taught as “lock in” trimming. Your going to just randomly trim small fibers here and there around the fly. The short fibers will lock in with the long ones and help give you that 3-d effect. Once you think your done trimming, trim some more.
Now your ready to epoxy your eyes on, and to color it up. I use the prisma markers but you can also use different colors of EP fibers.
Sorry this is so rambled and jumbled, My 3 year old is using me for a jungle jim again. Good luck, hope this rambling helps.
What fun, Neal. Great way to break the cold grip. But I have to object–the food shot simply does not meet the historical standards of this board, IMO.
