anonymous
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The boulder boat works are extremely nice looking. However, being lightweight does not always give the best performance in critical situations. On big rivers, the wind will get the best of them. Same with the Hog Island boats.
On my wooden mac I’ve been in flows of 30,000CFS on Bull Shoals tailwater at Calico Rock and winds gusting to 45 MPH and felt “relatively” safe in standing 2-3 foot waves and with the wind to my back still had “control” of my drift. I don’t think I would have wanted to be out there in any other boat. The weight of wood and keel effect of a hard chine made the difference in a lousy situation–not one I planned to be in.
Here’s an oversimplified comparison of drift boat materials I did for a drift boat presentation a while back. FWIW.
http://www.flyflinger.com/pdf%20files/Comparison%20of%20Drift%20Boats.pdfMore likely it could remove the bronzing which will cause the hook to rust sooner. It doesn’t take as much heat to burn off the bronzing protective finish. If your hook looks silvery afterwards, that’s what happened. You can probably scrape it off in a lesser amount too with a blade.
THAT’S IT!
I sometimes accuse my clients of ADSD (Attention Deficit Strike Disorder). Glad to know there is description for my malady ;D.
There is a practical reason to pay attention to these things. It allows you more time on the water to actually fish.
You name it with equipment, and I’ve probably seen it happen to my customers. Tiptops come off, guides are bent and they didn’t know it. Ferrules about to bust wide open. I warned a guy one day that I didn’t trust his braided heat on leader connection. He did not want to take the time to redo it. Sure enough he hooked up with a big fish and lost leader and all. There’s probably nothing more frustrating than being in the middle of good hatch and all your flies look like crap and the fish know the difference between a fresh looking imitation and one that looks like it ran the gauntlet.
I am not superstitious in the least nor do I consider myself fastidious (I don’t press my clothes or vest like some of my customers ;D), but the blood stains I mentioned because a customer a few seasons back caught an 8 pound brown. When I got the photos back, every one of them showed two blood stains on his vest right above the fish’s head. The photo was essentially ruined. No conservation based publication would print such a photo, and I suspect they would also have a dim view of photoshopping it out.
As far as inventory of fly tying materials, just a suggestion. I tie too many flies the night before or the morning of. You have to think ahead and think seasonally. Guides have to multi-task :).
Anyway, like any sport or occupation, there is also a discipline as well. That’s why I redo my slovenly tied knots, throw away rusty hooks and so on and so on …
Cameron:
I like the Whistle. That’s a great idea for every angler. I need to add one to my lanyard. Thanks!
Lou, if you have a chance, also check out the Thomas and Thomas LPS series in a 4 wt 3 piece. I think you would be pleased with it if you prefer slower rods. A very accurate rod also. Perfect for dries, small nymphs and wet flies. If you expect to throw a few streamers go with the 5 weight.
Scott
T&T Select Guide (disclaimer)Hey Zach,
The uses for a gps are limitless. I use mine to mark put in and take out information on new rivers. Like previously mentioned, you can mark your vehicle, tree stands, cool places, or whatever…..and return to them in the dark. Anyway, enough about all the uses.
When picking a unit that can fit both automotive and handheld uses, you’ll find yourself caught between easy to carry and easy to see in the car.
Personally, I’m a big fan of the garmit units. They are very user friendly and customer support is pretty good as well.
The etrex series are great units for the money and I used one in my truck for years. The screen is a little on the small side but they are still functional for the ride. The size on the etrex units are also some of the best for packing a long in your fishing vest. I would reccommend the color screen, as they are much easier to distinguish roads from streams etc. If you pick one of the upper models you’ll also get the goodies like auto routing, barometric altimeter, electric compass etc.
Last year I updated to the Garmin 76CSplus model. The color screen is a little bigger and is sunlight readable. It also supports auto routing which is a feature you’ll totally love if your traveling a lot. It also has all the other bells and whistles you’d want. The unit is a little bigger than the etrx series which makes it a little more cumbersome to pack a long but it’s still manageable. In my opinion it’s a great unit. Now Garmin has updated it to accept memory cards which is a cool feature I wish mine had. Mine has 115 MB internal memory which is enough to hold Driving and topo maps from Lexington to Atlanta and memphis to Asheville.
One thing about Garmin though. You’ll want to purchase two different mapping programs. First off will be the City Navigator series, this will make your autorouting feature complete as it list all roads and features over 6 million points of interest. The second program you’ll want is the Topo USA. This program does not support auto routing, but it does show all your topographic needs, bluelines, great shoreline detail, and most trails. I use these two programs on my unit and like I said, the coverage area is quite wide. The memory cards would be nice, but you can always just plug up to your computer and download whatever maps you need.
You can usually find a great selection of Garmin and other GPS units on ebay at great prices. The new Garmin GPS 76CX (the one that takes memory cards) has been listed for about $325. Almost $200 dollars less than retail. You can also find the map programs as well as vehicle mounts and cigerette lighter adapters for fairly cheap.
Either way you go, I’d look for a unit with a color/sunlight readable screen, electronic compass, barometric altimeter, waterproof, autorouting (this is so awesome), good mapping programs, and easy to use.
Hope this helps.
Have to echo that- ty for the info:))
My thinking on the 300 AFS , was that with the D200 1.5 x factor it is a 450 mm. Add in the TC-14E 1.4x convertor and we be getting closer, in a pratical, hump around package.
a review here of the combo-
http://www.bythom.com/300AFSlens.htm
I did look at some of the 80- 400VR reviews but the general consensus was that over 300mm it started to get soft, so I had that kinda written off.
Buzz- yep- I love the field combo re- laptop etc you suggested and was thinking that way, great to hear a solid complementary opinion- ty:)
I suspect that I will have to spend some time getting my ” long lens” chops in order as I have been a wide angle slut for many many years:))) and this will be a new experience
Will
Hi
From a Canadian Manitoba perspective Pike are interesting when they get over 40″. Best times of year
We can move past the “least varied and most anemic”
Point taken … end of rabbit trail … please resume …
Greetings Jackie:
You might take a look at my annotated fly-fishing bibliography.
http://www.flyflinger.com/bibliography.htmlMay you have good reading,
Scott
Buzz- you bring up an interesting point/points:) – for most!!! a drag/ and its Ad pimped advantages , is a selling feature not a real world neccesity( my point not yours:))). The% of anglers that NEED
Reels-
Redington AS/AL series from 5/6 to 13/14 (for the Spey stuff). Disc. Simple straight ahead well built machined from stockreels
4 reel bodies
A little info from my site/curiosity of a good friend and hard core pike fly fisher:))-
http://www.watersidemb.ca/julynewsletter1.pdf
some patterns-
http://www.watersidemb.ca/stupikebox1.html from Stu T
hope that helps
Will
