anonymous
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1) I have and use all three types. Use gear driven the most. Prefer the sealed bearing clutch type for smoothness. Is the last what you mean by draw-bar?
2) Most about $200 retail. $100 reels have not proved to be reliable enough for my guide use.
3) I usually set the drag for my customers unless they are fairly experienced. Less than a pound. Clients have broken off large fish on too tight a drag.
4) Appearance is not a critical as drag design and machined tolerances. Use more traditional reel designs but try something new every now and then. SA large arbor, Orvis large arbor, Galvan OBs.
5) Rarely but still hurts when it happens. I prefer the darker satin finishes. I expect durable finishes according to the price.
6) cork or synthetic? I would not hesitate to use Able or Bauer except for the cost factor. Older, cheaper cork or rulon disc drags I steer clear of. Would have a couple of 8-10 weight Van Staals if they ever get into serious production, Zebco didn’t downgrade the product, and I could afford them.
My .02
ScottSorry for the thinking out loud and bandwidth but I may have answered my own question. I just redid the experiment using Canon zoom browser to view the raw and jpg file and then importing them into Adobe Photoshop Elements for resizing and saving. The color on the shots that came out is exactly the same–not like when I used ACDSee Pro. That tells perhaps me something is off in ACDSee’s raw converter. Hmmmmm. Anybody have any similar experience or thoughts?
Is it best to use the camera manufacturer’s software to view the raw files?
Scott
Just an experiment. Here is one shot on the 30D, saved as RAW and JPG FINE. Shot saturated (+2).
Beta.jpg is the original jpg file only resized in ACDSee Pro.
Beta2.jpg is the raw image saved as a jpg and then resized in ACDSee Pro.What am I seeing in the color difference between the two shots?
The RAW vs JPEG issue comes up quite a bit in Outdoor Photographer Magazine–a publication I’ve found very useful.
An interesting article was in the July 2006 issue of Outdoor Photographer on “double processing” Raw files to keep max detail in the shadows and highlights.
Congratulations Zach (and Lauren). I know you work hard to maintain a good site. One of the things that got me reading was your fresh perspective. I appreciate your board and the people I get to interact with. All the best in the new year,
ScottA few more things to ponder.
Some pros will advise you to archive everything regardless of how it was shot as TIF since it’s “lossless” or uncompressed data and not a proprietary format. Outdoor photographer George Lepp is a big advocate of this. Remember, like Zach says every time you save a jpeg over itself, you are compressing the file and loosing data. That’s not true of TIF or RAW, although you will lose data through edits in TIF. One sports photographer I know says he only shoots JPG.
One plus to the Canon 30D I use is I can shoot both RAW and JPG at the same time. I leave it on that setting. But when I upload files to the laptop, I delete the raw images except for the really important ones. A few times I have been able to salvage an image I had to shoot on the fly, and it turned out over or under exposed. I then later save those RAW files and unedited JPG’s I keep on CD when I have enough to fill it.
Archiving in TIF is not as critical as it once was, since there are a lot of programs (such as ACDSee Pro) out there now that can read every proprietary RAW format–a nice plus if you use more than one model of camera.
I am with Carter on leaving it alone.
I don’t know. Looks like a good candidate for a beadhead at the eye and a chunk of foam in the tail for some jiggy action. ;D
Several years ago a marine sargent I had been corresponding with sent me a photo of himself with a large steelhead caught underneath the downtown Rochester, New York bridge. There were old bicycles in the river. Pretty strange looking scene–“trout live in ??? places.”
Happy New Year all,
ScottI wish all the board members peace in the New Year.
I don’t know about the Nikon D70, but the kit lens with my Canon 30D which is the equivalent I believe is pretty cheap (about a $100 lens). Unless its under warranty I don’t know if it will be worth the repair cost unless NPS will work something out for you. Hope it works out for you.
John or Buzz – Does Canon have a Canon Professional Services in the US? Does anyone have the contact info?
Thanks,
ScottMay you each have a wonderful Christmas.
2006 Multimedia Christmas Card at:
http://www.flyflinger.com/merry_christmas2006.exe
Large file (12MB). Turn on your sound.Scott Branyan
http://www.flyflinger.comMike, those are truly wonderful photos. Looks like your had some great opportunties this year and took advantage of them! I always enjoy seeing some depth of subject matter. Thanks for sharing.
For those of you wanting to increase you skill in photography, I’d say shoot…shoot…shoot.
I’d be interested in knowing how many shots you think you took this year Mike–if you kept track. I set up my software to keep track of cumulative shots, and found I’ve shot about 2,000 photos since June. One photo shoot about 300 shots. I’m getting about 1 really nice shot to every 100. Shooting a fair amount of angler action, it seems even if lighting and settings are right, there is always something I don’t notice in the composition that ruins a shot when looking at it later.
Sometimes too I get lazy, and it just requires taking the effort to get the camera out and think creatively. This is definitely one of the more creative boards, thanks to Zach, Mike and everyone, and I’m learning.
Seeing the bee pictures makes me want to ask, what’s the technique for good photos of insects swarms, for instance aquatic insects in the air. I know the lighting is important, either some backlighting or low angle side light, but any special lenses (super wide angle perhaps to get in as close as possible) or techniques?
This fella came into my yard just before dark back in September. He followed 30 minutes behind 8 does. Taken through my double paned kitchen window. I would not have gotten the shot on film. Canon 30D, 75-300 IS, 300mm, 1/50s @f5.6, 3200 ISO. It was about the limits of the equipment.
