anonymous
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Thanks Richard. The 17-40 is on my short list of ones to look at. Your comments will make me keep it at the top of the list. Price is sure easier to swallow.
Sorry guys, I forgot to mention that I already have a Canon 70-300mm USM IS.
Matt, I have the older version of that lens (75-300). The IS works great in a boat.
I look forward to seeing some of Eric’s photos with his 10-22.
Here is my neigh…..bor today through my kit lens. Sorry for the bad pun. 🙂
You might want to look at a 1.4 or 2x L series extender, Matt. You’ll lose a couple of stops but just bump the ISO up to keep you speed up. That lens with a 2x extender should get you in the “300mm crop range.” Don’t be afraid to experiment with the higher ISO settings, especially at low light and if it makes the difference between getting the shot or not. The 30D seems to do great on 800 ISO. I’ve taken some images at 3200. You will have to enable the 3200 ISO however. It is off in the default settings. See what the camera will do for you and your needs.
Does anyone know if you lose autofocus on the 2x on this lens? What about IS and teleconverters?
I keep debating over the 10-22 and the 16-35 L 2.8? If I really need the true 16mm angle of view I can use it on my film body until I can afford a full frame camera body. I plan to rent both and try them out first. Not sure I want to commit to the EF-S lenses and I would really like a 2.8 lens. That may make my decision for me. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
ScottMatt:
Before ya get too down on kit lenses, you might take a look at this thread:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=185522&highlight=kit+lens+photos
Pretty cool images with a kit lens.
Paul:
Woolhead sculpins are great patterns and a little easier to tie than the Whitlock Sculpin Mike was showing recently. You don’t really “spin” the wool as much as tie it in in tight clumps. It will rotate a little for you if you use strong enough thread. Trims easy–especially with curved scissors. http://www.flyflinger.com/streamer.html
Whitlock is of the opinion the deer hair head attracts fish more because it pushes more water. He’s probably right, but the woolhead sculpin produces some nice too. Fish sometimes hit it really hard. Probably a better pattern in clear, calm water situations.
ScottHi
Tungsten is available in sheet form- impregnated into a maleable and thin rubber like matrix- I use it instead of lead as a weighting option on patterns.
It,s a little tricky to use- soft wraps to set the strip on the hook shank and then over wraps and
A Pulling Stroke – for sake of simplicity- is where the elbow leads into the forward cast and the forward casting stroke is a downward chopping motion to an extremely abrupt stop ( see Paul Arden vids- Sexyloops- for an extreme version). With that cast style there is an upward backward drift on the backcast to lengthen the tip travel combined with a rotation of the upper arm outward on the backcast to a very aggressive stop and then rotating back inward on the forward cast, again to a very aggressive stop. It,s the arm rotation that allows for the aggressive stop. It’s a very aggressive and powerfull means of generating line speed and keeping line and
Zach:
Here’s a link on infared photography using the D100.
http://www.robwilliams.ca/Articles/Digital_Infrared.htmSeveral other sites out there on digital infared. But it may not be what you want.
Scott
Hey Ian:
Daily use I don’t know. On my personal fishing gear on a 4wt double taper, I found myself redoing it every 2-3 months where I might go six months with a nail knot on a tapered leader butt fishing dries and small nymphs. No big deal. I’m sure you know folks like I do that can demolish a leader in a few minutes, so 2-3 months seems like forever.
The 30# maxima Ian suggests actually matches the flex of most 5-6 weight lines. This is probably as important as the diameter. The flex of the line and the leader should match. Nail knot 8-10 inches of it on the line and tie a perfection loop in it. This what I use if my customer’s braided loop connection looks iffy.
For my own use, like Ian, I just nail knot the leader onto the fly line. A nail knot is no big deal if you use a tie-fast tool, and it is the quickest/strongest connection for trout set-ups.
The Zap a Gap splice does make a very clean connection, but you have to keep an eye on it. The hardened edge of the adhesive splice will weaken the line sooner and create a hinge point and need replaced. I’ve only used it on 4-5 weight lines.
That was after trying the chat link Zach- now I get those additional dialogs- when trying to access the main board. It found the Prairiespey07 aspect all on it’s own. Win2k Pro Wrk Station Sp3
hope that helps
Will
Zach:
1) Looks like the question ought to be “What is an avid fly fisher?”
2) I wonder if what you are seeing is not, as others have noted, a decline in an aging fly fishing community.
I have several customers who only fish 1-2 times year who have been avid flyfishers for 40 years. As they enter retirement and have health issues, they do not fish as much as they did. I think the most “avid” fly fishermen I know are in that higher age group. A few of them are also crossover hardware fishermen, but I don’t consider them any less a flyfisher.
Committment and love of the sport obviously helps us define “avid,” but if you want to know what makes a mere “fly fisher,” we should probably be generous in our labels and let people define themselves.
Here’s my idea on why the release date keeps getting bumped back. They’re probably catching gigantic fish we’ve never heard of in countries we only dream of going to. Lucky bastards…they have me seriously considering quitting my job.
Steelhyde
You might try using some x-fine round rubber for legs. I’ve used these on copper johns with great success. Mountain River fly shop in Cotter started carrying these. They work well. Not had time to tie any yet. I use them in sizes 12-18. Proportion of the thickness of the material may not look right on the very small flies.
Scott
