Michael Exl
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Seafood,
Thats my Patagonia Sunshade shirt. It really wasn’t that clean, you just can’t see all the carp slime on it. I think that was my 5th carp of the day, so thats a whole lot of slime. Now that I think of it my truck still smells of carp, ahhh the smell of victory ;D
Don’t know how I missed this thread. I have caught a lot of carp on the fly. I would say that I spent about 150 days this year targeting them. Here are some of the flies that I like to use. Chartuese clouser, yeah figure that one out. Good during pre and post spawn. Whitlock’s rubber legged squirrel nymph, Befus swimming carp, hex nymphs, mulberry fly, just sucker spawn that is black and purple, crayfish imitatitons. A tip that I will give you is that it makes a big difference when your fly is close to the color of the bottom. Here a just a few of the carp I took this summer:
Mark,
Thanks for the link. I’m going to order one after Christmas, I’m leaning towards the Wheatly as of now.
-Mike
It really depends if there is bait there or not. Its really hit or miss timing wise. I would head there now looking for browns and steelhead though. With the cold temps bait should be in shallow warmer water.
Here are some of my boxes. As you will notice they are loaded with flies. I like being able to tackle any condition that may come up.
This is my smallie streamer box.
My permit box.
My bonefish box.
My Lake Michigan tribs steelhead box.
My tarpon box.
My popper/terrestrial box.
My steelhead streamer box.
My reef box.
I was curious if anyone has any suggestions for a good tube fly box. The most that I have seen are just a plain clear tackle box.
Warm water discharges are also a good bet. Glad my dad is a manager at US Steel in Gary. I plan to introduce myself to some browns over my break ;D
I have 9 of the large C&F boxes and 2 of the smaller C&F boxes. Those things are awesome. I have one for all my carp flies, one for steelhead nymphs for Michigan and Indiana, one for Erie steelhead, one for smallie streamers, one for steelie streamers, a bonefish box, a permit box, a tarpon box, and one for poppers/terrestrials. I use the smaller ones for dries, midges, and smaller nymphs. For all my big reef and off-shore flies I have a fly brief case.
Neal, I used zap-a-gap on the eyes. As for painting the eyes, I use model paint, then will put a coating over it to stop it from chipping. Try the finger polish though I’d be interested in how it turns out.
Other then a two-hander, I would get a 10′ 7wt. mod-fast action such as a Scott A2, Ross CLA 4, with a Rio Versi-tip for a good setup with limited use.
Did you guys also notice that their rods broke right above where they had their hand on the blank in the video.
Neal, Thanks for the link. I do a fair amount of salt fishing myself, mostly flats. The eyes are from Wapsi. These should work, http://www.kaufmannsstreamborn.com/Catalog/Fly-Tying-Supplies/Materials/Eyes/SRI3DEYE/ Good luck with the bones.
I think your points are right on. 90% of time a rod breaks it due to user error. I’m including lead eyes hitting the blank in this as well. I have seen two rods break to manufactoring error. The first was my brothers Scott two-hander which exploded right above the cork on a cast. It also happened to him again on the same rod about two weeks after getting it back from Scott. The other rod that I have seen break was a Scott S3S, that crazy interal male end of the ferrule just broke and slide back down into the blank, and this was straight out of the tube.
A 9wt. is a little bit stronger, but not by much. An 8wt. should have no problem handling a salmon. You would be surprised the amount of pressure that you can put on a rod. Does a heavier weight rod make it easier to land a fish,well yes. But you also have to take the anglers skill into play. I personally love using a lighter rod for big fish. When I go after big carp 20+ I use a 6wt. I have even landed a 15lb carp on my 4wt. I landed all of them in under 5 minutes, not to mention putting a ton of pressure on them to keep them out of log jams. Its all about gettinga the right angle on the fish.
My standard sink tips I have cut back to 13′ for the T-14 I have it in 11′ , 9′, and 5′. I’m going to get some T-11 when it comes out and have them as long as 20′ tips. I would definitely use the two-hander. For a stripping basket just make one yourself. Get a small rubbermaid bin, about 3 gallons should do. Get some zip ties and some bungie cord. Drill a series of hole in the bottom of the bin and insert the zip ties so that the tag end sticks up in side the bin. Cut them to various lengths and angles and smooth them down. Next take put some holes in the side of the bin so you take the bungie cord and use it as a belt. Then you have a stripping basket.
This is the set up that I will be using 8110 Z-axis with a Nautilus 12 with a 400 gr. Skagit and various tips including T-14. I also have a Bauer loaded up with with a type 6 Rio Outbound in a 10wt. Also a stripping basket for line control. As for locations definitly areas around river mouths. Also warm water discharges would be great spots.
Here is a tube fly that I tied up using the glowing material. The top wing is all glowing material along with some strands coming off the back.
