J A Y M O R R
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Also, and not to plug a competing brand, but ever since the new Nikon D700 came out, the indoor ISO performance on those cameras has gotten ridiculous. I shot a few frames with a D700 and a 50mm f/1.4 over Christmas (granted, a great increase in cost over your system, but the color performance was astounding. At 6400ISO, still there was no noticeable noise. It was the first time I’ve ever thought that flash might indeed be unnecessary one day.
Zach
Very true Zach! Last night I did a portrait session in low-light using both the 700 and 50 1.4 and I was pleased with some of the shots taken without flash.
Dusty,
As mentioned, post a couple of examples so we can see. I photograph kids a lot 😉 I have not run into this type of issue when using flash. Even with ISO 200, and 1/500 at f5.6, my images come out sharp with enough light from flash. I also use a number of different diffusers and bounce the light. Your flash is more than sufficient to light the subject. What mode are you shooting in? If you are shooting in AV mode (Aperature-Priority), this could be causing a noticeable delay and causing the motion blur. I guess we will see that if you post the exif data on one of your shots.
While I appreciate the higher ISO quality at 3200+ with my camera body, I rarely need to use it, especially when combined with a nice speedlite. I am pretty sure you will be able to stick to under ISO400 when you are shooting the kidos and you will want to if you are going to be doing print enlargements for the house.
Phil,
Here is a link to some of my other shots:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaymorr/sets/72157615060964539/
Phil, I have quite a few more I can share. Would you like me to shoot you email with a link to a gallery of images?
greaaat photo man…i have a female thats been cruising around across from my house, i have a few poor shots of her eating something off the ground, but yet to get quite close enough for my 300 mm to give me that spectacular shot..
LOL! You don’t need a 300mm for that man, you just need a Ferarri!
Thanks for the comments.
ps.
Grats on the new lens John. I think the last shot is the best out of the series.
In the first shot, it would have been nice to see the entire ring on the ripple. It is clipped in either side. Get the entire reflection.
Second shot, lighting is a huge factor when shooting Mallards. Without good light it is hard to capture the iradescent greens from the Drakes. The colors in the shot do not stand out making it hard to see the eyes of the birds.
Third shot, Try getting lower to the subject. If possible kneeling down or getting at eye level with the bird will create a better feel to the image and draw the viewer into the subject.
4th Image, Nice clarity, but the reflection of the birds head is chopped off at the bottom of the photo. When you compose these type of shots, try and capture the entire reflection.
Last shot. By far the best image out of the series. However, again…get eye level and draw the viewer into the subject. This shots looks like you were shooting downward onto the “Egyptian”.
Birding is tough. I have learned so much the past couple of years by practicing and also improving upon some of the things mentioned. You will find as you shoot more waterfowl that the real secret to success is “Lighting”.
It will be exciting to see your images on the new lens! Take care.
Interesting stuff. I love the shot regardless. To bad he was not honest about it.
Have you guys seen Andrew Zuckermans BIRD stuff?
Mike, not to take the question away from John, but yes it will work. And yes you will lose the stops. You also get the crop factor of shooting on a crop body so take that into consideration. With the crop factor it puts you over 400mm. However, the 2x is known for being very soft when fully extended. So that would actually put you about 640mm with the 50D having a 1.6 crop factor 🙂
I think number 1 and 3 are great, with number 2 my eyes don’t really find a subject.
Olle
C’mon Olle, admit it…. you were focused on the Camel Toe!
