Ian Crabtree
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On a more serious note, I don’t think any Patagonia fly fishing specific product I’ve owned could be accurately described as durable. I return them because I think the failure was a defect. I inform them of the problem and how to fix it. Once they provide a product that fails due to my own wear and tear or fault, I’ll stop returning them.
Sure, Simms won’t replace a leaky pair of waders, but they last a lot longer than Patagonia waders. I wouldn’t feel right about returning an item if I had used it for a reasonable amount of time. So… when Patagonia gets to this point I’ll feel a lot more comfortable about recommending them.
Not sure if you’ve already done this and they haven’t responded yet, but thought I’d mention it. I’d email Galvan and see what they recommend. Bauer was nice enough to send me some oil to use free of charge.
Mike,
Patagonia offers the same type of warranty service as LL Bean on their waders, unfortunately it takes more than a few weeks to get them back.
I’ve returned two pairs of waders to Patagonia in the past four years that had a failure I didn’t think wear and tear or abuse was responsible for. I returned both pairs saying that repair or replacement was fine. Both times they sent a brand new pair of waders.
One could definitely make some crazy realistic eggs in this fashion. Might as well add a touch of glitter while I’m at it.
I’m also going to try using heavy lb test cajun line (red mono) rather than toothpicks to peg the bead on the line. Might be a little less visible…
Fish just can’t resist beads.
My next project is going to be making hot glue beads. In my mind I’m envisioning threading a faceted tungsten bead onto a dubbing needle or something similar and then forming the hot glue egg around it. Once it’s set, pull it off – voila a bead. It should create some nice flash inside the glue and hopefully eliminate the need for split shot.
Hey BillySpey,
I think I found this writeup on speypages, apologies for not being able to give credit where its due. I copied it for future reference. The original poster stated that it came in an email from Chris Andersen at Sage.
“5110-4 Z Axis
The smallest of the fab-four. The 5110-4 will manly see duty as a trout switch rod, with both nymph and streamers. Along with the occasional desire to fish hoppers on the “other bank”. Sea Run Cutthroat and Sea Run Dollies both beach and stream round out the menu. . Reel Match: CLA 4, Ross Evolution 3.5, Sage 3300D.
Line Matches:
•Rio Outbound WF-7-F; Killer overhead.
•Rio Outbound WF-8-F; Nice single hand single spey, luggish otherwise
•Rio WindCutter 4/5; nice overhead. As for Spey a “little light”
•Rio Steelhead/Atlantic Salmon WF-7-F; OK for overhead and single hand spey casts
•Rio WindCutter 7/8/9 Body only with 15’ (both floating and sink tip). Note: although we didn’t try this we are confident this will prove to be the overall setup.”Hope that helps. If I can find the original source I’ll edit this post and link to it.
That is one sweet pelican case…
Along the same lines as Matt, I’ve been using a (small) Simms Dry Creek Duffel Bag in Alaska to carry my camera and additional lens. I don’t like the Great Divider because of the zippers. I can’t think of a single product that I’ve owned with “water-resistant” zippers that didn’t leak like a sieve after a month or two on the water. This is what I’m using:
I put the camera in a padded lowepro top-loading case and the extra lens in a Simms waterproof camera bag (designed for P&S cameras). It’s padded to offer protection, as well as waterproof. My kit lens barely fits in here, but the 50mm fits just fine.
Everything is protected from the elements and most drops and bumps. I like the fact that the dry bag doesn’t have a rigid shape, so I can stuff it in corners where it’s out of the way, and unlikely to catch fly lines or get trampled.
I’d be interested in hearing why you’d like to get a pelican case, I guess you’re looking for a hard case mostly for the extreme protection it offers. If so, then that’s the best game in town.
I’m not Cameron, but I’ll answer the question anyway.
The Spring Creek is one of the three models in the Tibor Light series.
http://www.tiborreel.com/tiblsiz.htmlI like everything about the design of the light series reels except for the drag adjustment. That little screw is just way too small.
This is on Digg right now, so there’s a good chance this server might go down. If you can’t access the site, wait a few hours and check back.
Check out the videos here: http://flyfisherman.com/ftb/bobclouser/
I always end up referring to these videos when I tie clousers. I don’t tie them often enough to remember the proportions and epoxy application tricks.
The answers I get are all over the map, from about right to waaaay over or under the actual catch rate. I was surprised when I started using the counter, I had been underestimating catch rates pretty significantly. It’s hard to keep track once you get into the 30s without having a counter.
Mustad C68S SS
Daiichi 2546 (this one looks like the halfway point between a Mustad 34007 and a AKI style hook) – should work wellI doubt there’d be a problem with roosters short-striking, so I wouldn’t be worried about using a short shank hook. The shorter shank gives the fish less leverage to torque the fly out of its mouth during the fight.
It looks like the fuzzy fibers could be tied just like a PB fly. Find the instructions for tying a Peanut Butter and use the stacking method.
Zach, I carry one of those click counters, but not for the reason you’re describing.
Alaska Fish and Game requires guides to keep accurate logs on the numbers of fish caught and released. I don’t tell my clients that I’m keeping a tally, and the clients never see our log books.
To be honest, once someone has caught over about twenty fish they lose track completely. I get all kinds of strange responses when I ask clients how many fish they think we’ve caught and then compare it to the actual numbers.
Are those EP fibers?
If they are, you can tie the EP fibers like you would with a Peanut Butter style fly to allow you to shape the fibers around the eye rather than the Stu Apte look.
I’d also recommend changing the hook to something more like a TMC 600SP, Owner AKI, or a Gamakatsu SC-15. With these short shank/wide gape hooks you won’t need to do the Apte tarpon fly style to keep the tail away from the hook to allow for movement. Plus the short shank hooks keep the fish hooked up really well in my experience with salmon.
I’d also consider tying them wider/longer and in all white. Carry a few different prisma color markers and a pair of scissors to make adjustments as needed on the water. Cheaper, less work, and more versatile once you get there.
But then again, I’ve never caught a roosterfish, so what do I know.
I’ve been meaning to post in this thread for a while, and I just finished The River Why, which I wasn’t impressed with, so now’s as good a time as any.
If you have any interest in saltfly, read Sea Level: Adventures of a Saltwater Angler by Jeffrey Cardenas. Amazon is selling it for $50, which is expensive as hell for a book (only available in hardcover), but I wouldn’t bat an eye at the cost after finding out how good it is. I can say with the exception of the short story “The Longest Silence” which gives the book its name, this is the only fly fishing writing I’ve ever really enjoyed.
