bill 93
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If I was forced to choose between fill flash and asking the angler tip the brim of their hat upward I would take the latter every time. Not only does it reduce, if not eliminate that shadow, but you also get to see more of their face and it emphasizes their smile. That said, I’d prefer to not have to choose one or the other.
Of course, what would I know? With a hyperactive toddler around to keep me perpetually exhausted, it’s getting hard to even remember the last time I went fly fishing.
You can’t go wrong with a Mora knife. They keep a good edge (particularly the carbon steel models), are easy to sharpen (due to the scandi grind), don’t cost a lot of money, and they are often razor sharp right from the factory.
Note: I have bought one or two that didn’t come super sharp from the factory, which is annoying. . . scandi grind knives don’t require a lot of skill to keep them razor sharp, but if they don’t come sharp from the factory it can take a lot of time and effort to sharpen them the first time because there is a lot more surface area to remove metal from than a conventional knife. After that, maitenance is easy.
Thanks, Jason.
Bill, no filters but I did use an HDR app, then I did some final edits using Snapseed. I have an older Canon DSLR and several lenses (including some of Canon’s L glass), but I seldom ever use any of it. I enjoy being able to photograph, edit, and publish all from the same device.
Bryan
Oops, somehow, I missed the “iPhone” part of the title the first time. Thanks for the response even though I could have answered my own question if I had been paying more attention. I guess I was just too distracted by the photos themselves.
Very nice. I like your photos. Did you use ND grads in some of the shots? I’m mostly wondering because I have had mixed results with mine.
“True Grit” (It’s better than either movie version, in my opinion.)
“Treasure Island” (I have had this book since I was a kid and have never read through it because I always end up forgetting that I started reading it and end up starting over from the beginning again.)
I haven’t read much about fishing lately.
I wasn’t worried that this would catch on (in the consumer marketplace) until you mentioned that Steve Jobs was interested in buying Lytro.
That said, my instinct still says that lightfield cameras have a more promising future as scientific and security cameras than for mainstream photography. I don’t think the average consumer wants to “mess with” his or her photo after taking it, the resolution will always be somewhat lower than “traditional” (for lack of a better term) cameras. And while I would hate to use, and even abhor*, the “B-word” (the one that ends in “okeh”); I find it quite unpleasant in these lightfield images. But the biggest and most subjective reason I don’t think it will catch on for consumers, none of the lightfield images really feel like art to me, and I suspect a lot of other people consciously or not will feel the same way, they just feel articificial.
*I would rather use an English word for this concept, especially when “Boke,” simply means “blur.” Not that I have a problem with Japanese, but in this case, I just find it pretentious. . . in fact. . . when the “h” is added –to make sure we pronounce it right– I even find it condescending. I find it especially ironic that the “h” was originally added to “boke” around the same time as Pokemon was introduced to the American public. Millions upon millions of children could figure out how to pronounce “Poke” but no, we photographers are apparently too stupid to figure out it’s Japanese, even when we’re told. Sorry about the rant.
Wait, are you looking for 4/3 or micro 4/3?
Conceptually I really like the 4/3 standard, but unless I missed some big news you are asking for something that doesn’t exist and probably won’t in the near future. I think the 4/3rds camera makers got blindsided by the whole DSLR video thing the 4/3 makers don’t seem to have put as much into sensor R&D as other companies have.
1) For those of us who burn easily, there’s no a sunscreen that will last the entire day.
2) Sunscreens (in the U.S.) only block the wavelengths of U.V. that causes sunburn. They do not block the wavelengths that accelerate ageing.
3) Suncreens have been found to cause coral bleaching.
http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=nw#hl=en&sugexp=frgbld&gs_nf=1&cp=17&gs_id=2o&xhr=t&q=sunscreen+coral+bleaching&pf=p&biw=1225&bih=740&sclient=psy-ab&oq=sunscreen+coral+b&aq=0v&aqi=g-v1&aql=&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=180aa9184df0bb33
4) In hot climates a hat isn’t always enough to protect you, there’s enough light reflecting the water, bottom, boat, etc to burn you from below. I’ve had guides here in Texas tell me stories about the occasional client who didn’t take the guides advice and couldn’t walk after a day on the flats because they wore swimming trunks instead of pants and got sunburn on their balls.
I keep getting holes in any waterproof bags I own, I’m starting to get frustrated with them in general.
Shooting lightning is definitely a pain in the butt. Every time I’ve even succeeded in getting lightning in the frame it’s always faint and in the corner of the frame or mostly running off an edge. . . perhaps if I lived in a more open landscape allowing wider angles I would have better luck.
You’re right Curtis, I read too quickly and saw that he wanted to display video on an “overhead projector” and I instantly assume he’s talking about the old fashioned kind, when what he was really concerned about was latency and camera quality.
They used to make LCD panels to fit on top of an overhead projector. Here’s an example that claims to meet the VGA specification, but it might be too old (slow response time/low resolution) to be effective for displaying video.
I’m glad your camera is working, here’s another trick that worked for one of my cameras in my Pre-DSLR days (We successfully tried the following on a Konica Minolta Dimage Z2.):
Duct tape your vacuum cleaner hose to the memory Card slot and let the vacuum running over night. The vacuum should suck nearly all of the moisture out.
Fortunately, we had an upstairs bedroom on the opposite side of the house from our master bedroom and couldn’t hear anything through the night.
On a DSLR you probably ought to cover the lens mount with a body cap. Of course, of the card slot doesn’t work, I would consider also taping the hose to the lens mount to suck the moisture out, but something tells me this might be bad for delicate shutters, so I would start out with the card slot.
I have seen it, but my “my milage varied.” I was actually interested in this post (not it would help from a tech perspective) because I have been curious about whether I have been doing something wrong with the DNG profile editor.
I do shoot film, but Kodachrome was discontinued last year, that’s what got me wondering if I could successfully emulate the look of it.
Films l
Kodachrome was quite rich in colour but print tech often sqewed colours in one direction or another.I know I wasn’t the one that asked, but that explains so much. I’ve been looking at a lot of old films (particularly Kodachrome) and trying to approximate the look with digital, so that explains why every time I think I’ve got it down I see another group of photographs and realize, “oh crap, I’ve got it all wrong.” At lot of examples I see on the web are probably printed and scanned. I guess I should rely more on my parents’ old slides instead, even if they didn’t take particularly compelling photographs.
I love that photo Kyle! There just seems to be an incredible amount of depth to it whether it’s the sailboats, the mountains, or the clouds. I’m even more impressed by that depth since the foreground is entirely water. And no, I’m implying that you should crop it, because that open space feels to me like sailing into port, but I haven’t quite arrived yet; I suppose that gives me a feeling of anticipation.
Scott, that is a really nice tarpon.
I’m on a full frame so your milage may vary. . . I’ve had the 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS and the 24-105 f/4 L. The 24-105 is a much better lens, and in my opinion worth every extra cent I paid for it over the 28-135.
It might hurt the wallet up front, but it’s usually better to pay once than to be constantly upgrading. However, if you have a cropped sensor you may wish to go wider.
For landscape photography, I use a lot of manual focus Nikon Lenses from the ’70s and ’80s on an adaptor. The image quality is usually fantastic and these lenses can often be had for very little $$$. However, these aren’t really walk-around lenses I only mention them since you mentioned you’re interested in landscape photography and on a tight budget.
This is not my best image of 2010 from a technical perspective since I didn’t quite nail the focus, however, it just might be my favorite photo from a fishing trip.
I couldn’t see anything through the viewfinder at all when I took this. In fact, I could barely see anything when not looking through the camera either. . . fortunately, a 30 second exposure allowed the camera to make out a few details.
