willmilne
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi
Sounds like you have some solid options – though Gimp is probably the least attractive.
If it is not on your or anyone else’s radar Picture Window Pro is an amazing image editor for little cost.
All operations are 16 bit and it functions in a very ” darkroom ” like user interface with full color management etc . It lacks the graphic options and bells and whistles of PS ( which suits some folks like me just fine ) but has a very deep editing toolset if you follow the capture image at optimum /do as little manipulation as needed/output to industry demanded specs , in other words a very straight ahead approach to image making
That is a great image . If I can be so bold with some judicial/sensitive post work would be top drawer
Will
Out of curiosity has anyone seen/heard of where Nikon is going with live view on the newest iteratations of thier cams?
Tim – for photomicroscopy work your comments is a very pertinent and important one and in my case a major factor in resolving a new cam body choice.
Will
Eric nice stuff – images and bikes. Just bought one of these plus chaps a leather thong and waistcoat :)))) so I can relate :))))
http://yamaha-motor.ca/products/products.php?color=SL&model=2912&group=M
Will
“this looked more like an American school cafeteria.” Given the quality of food served in the average school cafeteria was that really an endorsement ???? :))))))
Will
Jay
Tremendous images especially the mating behaviour ones . Nice to see images that get beyond the simple saw this bug took pic stuff.
I cant help but think that the attractive lady in the last post is responding to the Garter snake image with some emotional response – I’m a sucker for connecting images with narratives:)))
Will
Hi
Great series Mike.
Seems we tend to overlook the little feesh which are clearly just as interesting , if not more , as the troots.
Not sure if this plays into where your tech interests are at, but it is a very effective approach for taming highlights and saturating colours ( yes I grew up in the UK ) – works just as well with a single flash as the dual example
http://www.naturescapes.net/042004/wh0404.htm
hope that helps
Will
Great image Mike – I have a feeling you are imagining images that most of us have not seen which is very exciting – to me at least :))- there is a level of abstraction in that image I love – the hint of a rerlected environment in the eye – that references back to the viewer that could be a powerfull element to play with.
Will
Hi Mike
I think it depends on where your goal is focused .
I have a a number of custom ( home ) made tanks ranging from 2x3x 1/2″ in thickness to 6x4x 1″ in thickness for imaging aquatic critters from bugs to small fishes.
They all have the facility to recirculate the water and keep the specimens alive for many days to even weeks in a very confined environment.
Lighting of micro-aquariums is most easily done using diffused cross polarized flash.
The reason I ask about the end result is this –
If you are trying to create a definite or usefull image with respect to ID or imitation with a pattern then taking a photograph of an aquatic critter outside of that environment basically leaves out way to much info.
There are incredible subtle color and structural features of small fish and macro invertebrates that get lost when you simply photograph them out of the water.
Hope that helps
Will
Great shots and sorry to hear of the injury. Just consider it training. I turned 54 this year. My new routine before leaving the house.
1- Confirm I know why I am leaving the house?
2- Underwear – am I wearing any?
3- If the above is negative am I wearing pants?
4 – Is it actually the day I think it is or am I yet again heading to work at 4 am at Sunday morning?
Will
It occured me after being out for a walk earlier there is also an other approach that cuts against the grain that you might like. Using wide angle primes in the macro range.
John pointed out that focal length is generally a matter of working distance – greater with longer lenses and closer with shorter lenses. There is however another consideration and that is the degree of isolation from the background that is created. Longer lenses tend to give a greater sense of isolation and shorter lenses less so.
I dont know how things work with Canon but on Nikon manual focus wide angle lenses with extension tubes are a superb option for close up work. The focus range is so limited that you just set the lens on inf or closest mark depending on the look you want and “rock back and forth” acheiving focus with the viewfinder and fire away.
Not fly fishing related but – Orchid seed pods – each approx 5 mm long with a 20 mm f2.8 and 14 mm extension tube and balanced flash-
same setup except with an 8 mm tube with an Orchid about to bloom –
both hand held – working distance approx 2 inches.
hope that helps
Will
Given you are on Canon you might also consider the 65 MPE Canon which goes beyond 1:1 . Up to 5:1 I think but can also be rigged to do sub 1:1 –
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/924853
Nikon uses (me ) are jealous of this lens :))
If you are planning on working without a tripod you may want to consider the addition of a diffused flash as main or fill and get the fastest shutter speed you can as a basic principal.
Will
Not sure if this is the case with Canon. I use my Nikon tethered a lot of the time. With the utility I use I need to switch , in the camera menu, from ” talking ” to a CF card to “talking” to a computer for tethering to work.
Perhaps there is an similar function in your 5D .
Will
Hi
A couple of questions-
– are you sure it is a Circular Polarizer ?
– does it have a double layer of polarizing material ie:
Hi
Cameron has a been a guiding light with Tenkara . It is a really refreshing and engaging way of fishing . If you ever tied a piece of line to a pole and stuck a worm on a hook and dabbled it in trout stream as
Hi
Realistically – you have some nice images in the group . Overall you have some very balanced and strong composition in every image. However I get the sense you know that:))) and your concerns are related to #1 in particular.
A polarizing filter in #3/5/6 might have tamed some of the highlights and strengthened the midtone values
#2 and #4 look fine to me :)))))
#1 is basically a very nasty situation for any photographer, please let the light change!!!, screw taking pics!!!!!, I’m sitting down and smoking my pipe situation!!!!!!!:))))
Next time you could try – a polarizing filter that would cut down on flare and give you a bit more saturation and highlight info
Next time you could try – a Graduated Neutral Density Filter to hold back the excessive amount of camera perceived light emanating from the sky/fog
Next time you could try- compositing under and overexposed images of the scene
I think what would be the most benificial is looking at the sequence of images you have and saying hey- that worked!!!! ok I have something that works in that kinda light with my cam/lens setup !!!!!!! ok I will remember this and when I see that kinda light I am good to go!!!!
I have huge respect for John so I won’t try and paraphrase him – ok maybe I will cos he’s a nice guy and won’t mind :)))
When you get outside the “press button/rely on camera ” . Experience and a personal vision of what you feel does or doesn’t create balance becomes the guiding principle . So “is this overexposed” becomes less of a technical issue and more of an aesthetic one . There are times it works in your favour and there are times it simply never will – sucks but that’s life :))) Any photographer that tells you do this/do that and you are always good to go is full of shit!!!!!
The only way to gain experience in those kinds of situations is to experiment with modification techniques in different circumstances and decide on your own – what works and what doesn’t in relation to your vision .
Polarizing and Neutral Density Filters are a great place to start with the kind of images you posted IMHO
hope that helps
Will
