Peter E.
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My main rod is the TFO TiCr and the reason is because of how tough it is. I do like the way it casts as it has a very nice recovery and is fairly light in the hand.
But I will say that after having casted the BVK I’m planning on that being my next rod.
Now if I was looking to buy a spare rod, I’d be hard pressed not to go with the TFO Pro. I like the way it casts, easy on the wallet and very tough.
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
Charles, Alabama is a pretty good spot too. Though we are not as blessed in the way of trout. I imagine if I were to spend a year or two up there I could manage a few good stories. And I absolutely agree that they are three of God’s greatest gifts.
Mark, I really appreciate your buying the book. I hope you enjoy it. I know I enjoyed writing it and getting to go and do all of it.
I believe Andrew is right, I have the green mirrors and they are an amber lens. But they could have changed it up.
By the same token though I have to agree with Zach, a good quality pair of glasses makes a world of difference. Or at least it has for me. I was skeptical about shelling out the coin, for my glasses but I am very glad that I did.
As to the weight of the glass lenses, I haven’t noticed any difference. I have noticed however that they are almost impossible to scratch. I have to say, I am not going back to a plastic lens.
Sorry to hear about it man, don’t worry, you do enough as it is to make a head spin. You ought to do some fishing, a trip report would be nice.
If I was going with a mirrored look I would go with the amber lens and a green mirror. I use that very one and love it.
I would say right at 30#’s and no I never got around to it. I could make them to match any boat but as it is, it is just easier to go with someone like bending branches.
I believe it would be without any doubt. I would search on line and see what all is available along those lines. Now I would like to see some pictures of the sloop. That would be very cool.
Well Gary in truth eastern red cedar is a type of juniper so as such it has different properties. Like for instance western red cedar does not have as much color and it is much clearer. It also shapes much easier. As a result eastern red cedar makes for a much rarer boat. I can’t say that I have seen or heard of a cedar canoe made of the same. Though I would like to see one other than the ones I make.
As I have said before I am building one now of cypress and it is quite a different boat, in shape as well as color. I will post pictures of it after it is done. I think people might like to see it done as well.
Ok so at this point I have built the yoke and put it into the boat. The next step is to put the risers in so that the seats can be placed in. The Seats are not put in on the gunnels. I lowered them to drop the center of balance on the boat for greater stability.
The first step is to get the measurements and then glue them in. I used super glue. Now I want everyone to know that they later had fiberglass tape up on and then epoxied it.
Thanks guys I may just.
Zach, though you can stand in it, I would not suggest trying to stand and fish out of it. But the design could be changed to fit what ever specks you might want.
Ok so in this set of photos the inner hull has been faired and sanded down. After that I added the inner fiberglass. It’s a boring thing to watch and I needed two hands. As a result no pictures of that stage.
Now on to the next part. In this section it shows the first time the boat is put in the water to see just where the seats need to be placed as well as the yoke. The inner and outer gunnels have been added, with the inner being scuppered.
The first shot is me meeting up with friends to watch the maiden voyage of the craft.
This second shot is me checking to see just how stable the boat is. Though you can stand in the boat, it is not an ultimate. But it does paddle much faster. It’s a give and take. But I was satisfied that it is a stable boat.
Next my friend Doc took the boat for a spin trying to get a feel for where the seats should be placed. He is our resident canoe guru.
After getting the boat back on the dock we all sat around and had a look at the boat and discussed how it did.
I use “bite-wire” or as we say down here, steel leader. I use 15# and it makes a nice loop that gives the fly plenty of action.
I understand, I tell folks I’m a wuss, that’s why I build light boats. As a matter of fact this boat is looking for a home right now.
Alright, this next section shows the placing of the second layer of fiber glass on the outer hull.
And with that done, the next step is to take the forms out and then put the boat in a yoke then begin faring out the inside of the hull.
That is a pretty cool idea to use the magic eraser. I might have to try that out later on. Thanks for giving me the heads up.
This one weighed a little over thirty pounds. They are very light boats. And if somebody wants, I can have the bottom of the hull covered in clear, smooth, line-x. That basically makes it bullet proof. And it doesn’t add hardly any weight.
I tie some articulated flies. I use 7 strand wire leader material to for the loop for the rear hook. Mainly use them for short striking species. Most fish I fish for go for the head, so you don’t need the hook that far back. I also use a stinger rig sometimes, which is not the same as an articulated fly.
Even though they slow down it seems to me that when a speck commits, he commits. That’s just me though. I also notice a down size in my offering for specks works a bit better in the colder months for some reason too. Could just be me though.
