Kent Edmonds
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You can download a copy of the slideshow to your comp. I use a pc 7 had no projector issues – works like any video file.
Kent - FlyFishGA
“…the array of arcane knots…the leader…is attached to the fly…and to choose (a knot) is to make a moral choice. You are made to understand that it would not be impossible to fight about it or, at the very least, to quibble darkly.” – Tom McGuane
On bigger game stuff, I also favor Blanton-style braided loop on both ends of the fly line. I also like to use it on the back in of lighter fly lines as it makes changing lines a snap. I use a surgeons loop tied with the doubled strands of a Bimini in the backing.
For leader loops, I use a perfection for tapered leaders. It is a slightly weak knot, but it tightens pretty, slim and straight. And even an 80% knot in the heavy butt section is still stronger than the tippet. For straight untapered leaders on sinking lines, I use the triple surgeons.
And Zach, when I don’t have time to use braided loop, I use an Albright to attach leader (or looped permanent leader butt) to the flyline. It’s not pretty or slick, but with sinking lines and short leaders that’s a moot point.
Kent - FlyFishGA
I recently used Prezi (free, online version) for a slide show –http://prezi.com/hvnv9oifjb7e/river-stripes-shoal-bass/
It worked pretty good. This was for live presentation with verbal narrative so the chronology may not make sense, but it’s sometimes helpful to be able to bounce around the show with zoom, etc.
Kent - FlyFishGA
For a sliding indicator attachment, you can take a separate piece of mono, tie it on to your leader with a uni-knot, then attach the indicator to a long tag from the uni. It will then be easy to slide the knot up or down and adjust depth. Might be trouble to try with “hooked indicator” as tags will exit the uni-knot more or less parallel to leader, and might be prone to tangle – but it works good with an indicator.
Kent - FlyFishGA
I spoke with Jesse Riding at Rainy’s Flies at the US office in Logan, Utah – “Sorry, but we sell flies only through our authorized dealers worldwide”. And no chance of “flies that fell off the back of the delivery truck” it seems – “The Thai government is pretty strict on whom we sell to and it must be authorized channels or we would have ot be set up as a retail shop there and not a duty sheltered enterprise like we all are…providing jobs in exchange for lower taxes and duties and such.”
Though it would certainly be a fascinating tour, Jesse says they keep the factory “really tight” and are not set up to give tours, “maybe occasionally to a dealer” but otherwise no. Part of the reason may be the many innovative techniques that have been developed over the years by Rainy and her staff of fly designers, but more likely because they are busy tying high-quality flies that catch fish!
You can see photos of the Rainy factory and staff on their facebook page – http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=114778735211229&aid=11333
This is certainly far from the stereo-typical far-eastern sweat shop. Rainy Riding, the founder, actually lives on location in Thailand, and manages the operation. Many of the management and tying staff are long-time employees, and jobs with Rainy are some of the most coveted in the area.
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Hey Zach, Jesse said you and he are talking today about an article. You should set him up for a podcast – very cool guy.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Hey Zack, make sure to ask Flip about how to cure a tailing loop – a very interesting viewpoint I’d never heard before.
Kent - FlyFishGA
J’s Hopper Popper by Rainy’s – available in yellow, chartreuse, cinnamon (above), and black.
“J” is Rainy Riding’s son Jesse – he runs the Idaho warehouse for Rainy’s…and ties dynamite flies.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Well shucks – `thought I’d invented something.
Yeah, Zach – only advantage for variation is the angler can keep fishing while I rig except for a couple of seconds when I slip the knot on the hook bend. If I’m rigging my rod while fishing, I prefer tying the fly on last – when you have that fly dangling, there’s always a chance of it hooking on something.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Hey Zach, I use a guide’s version of your invention. Fishing shoal bass on the Flint, I’ll often have angler throwing a topwater but when we come to a deep run that I think holds fish and they won’t take the popper, I want to add the dropper.
While my angler continues to throw the popper, I tie the complete clinch (std or improved) on my finger and just leave the loop open. Then I have him bring in fly, and then I just slip the loop over the hook bend and tighten the loop. The angler is back fishing barely missing a beat.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Hey Shane – those are from Callaway. In the weir shot, we were “high-sticking” blind and just spanking the bream.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Call Renzetti. I had a screw fail after several years use – they replaced quickly. `Said they had a batch of bad ones at one time.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Definitely work with longnose or spotted gar. According to TPWD (http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/landwater/water/aquaticspecies/inland.phtml) you have both, plus alligator & short-nose. They say “entanglement” lures will catch all of them.
If you get a bigger alligator gar, I’d suggest you let him keep the fly. 🙂
Kent - FlyFishGA
I’ll be there Fri-Sun – mainly be at the TFO booth or the Freedom Hawk kayaks at River Supply’s booth. And I’ll be tying Saturday from 1 to 5 (unless I slip out early to hear Zach’s program, which I’d like to do).
Kent - FlyFishGA
I would heartily endorse the FFF casting program – it’s not perfect , but it’s been a great help to me (andmore importantly to the anglers I guide and instruct).
I guided for many years and gave hundreds of lessons before going through the certification program. Always thought I did a good job too, but what I learned about casting and instruction has made a magnitude of difference. For example, I no longer say to a client that “you over-powered the cast.” (Honestly now, how many anglers’ casts did you actually improve by telling him he over-powered the cast?). I might say now that your loop did this, and that’s because the rod did this, because your hand did this. Now, try doing this instead.
If you can go out and throw loops that tail for five different reasons, you’ll have some insight. I can now throw a loop that looks just like the student’s, then make a slight change and throw a good loop. The FFF certification helped me develop the ability to look at the loop and see exactly where the problem started. More importantly, it gave me numerous ways to translate the problem to the angler. Not everyone learns the same way, and the input from dozens of instructors who see the same problems gave me a whole “bag of tricks” to help correct the fault with different types of students.
For guiding, it can be maybe more important. Sometimes the difference between catching and not catching is being able to make a particular cast. I can now zero in on just the specifics needed to get the angler making the fish-catching cast.
Already mentioned is the knowledge and feedback available from other instructors. When I have a student with a particular problem, I have a network of experienced instructors I can call for help. Since we speak the same language (thanks to the FFF), I can easily describe the problem and get ideas about how they have helped other “unique individuals” with th same problem.
A side benefit, and one that’s been especially satisfying, is personal – learning the potential of the fly rod. Always thought I was a good (or very good) angler – and I was… casted just fine, caught plenty of fish, and had lots of fun. But now, I see always there’s always more to learn…and it fascinates me.
Kent - FlyFishGA
My old Orvis 5 wt Far & Fine is unsanded, with cork reel seat.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Hey, Doug – been a while. I owe you a big thank you. When we fished, you gave me the great tip of using a cut-up gravel guard as a cover for my old Pentax waterproof point-and-shoot – I used the idea for years.
And now I’ve adapted the idea by using a cut beer koozie as a lens cover/shock absorber for my little digital Pentax WP. Best of all it has enough buoyancy to float the camera too.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Earlier I mentioned a quality kit that a local shop here in GA sells, but didn’t have a link. Here it is –http://www.unicoioutfitters.com/classes.html and here’s contents for the $125 kit –
Supreme Vise
Hoffman 1/4 Saddle (Grizzly)
Hoffman 1/4 Saddle (Brown)
Hoffman Bugger Pack
Griffin Std. Bobbin
Griffin Hackle Plier
Universal Scissors
20 Mustad #19580 Hooks; Size 8
20 Mustad #9671 Hooks; Size 10
20 Mustad #94840 Hooks; Size 12
20 Mustad #94840 Hooks; Size 14
20 Mustad #37160 Hooks; Size 16
Pack Hare’s Ear Dubbing
Pack Olive Dry Fly Dubbing
Pack Adams Grey Dry Fly Dubbing
Brass Beads
Spool Gold Wire
Spool Flat Gold Tinsel
Spool Lead Wire
Spool Olive Thread
Spool Black Thread
Pack Tan Elk Hair
Pack Peacock Herl
Pack Duck Flank
Pack Wooly Bugger Marabou
Pack Polypropylene Yarn
Pack Medium Dark Olive Chenille
Pack Black Yarn
Pack Goose BiotsKent - FlyFishGA
Unicoi Outfitters (http://www.unicoioutfitters.com) has a kit that is realistically packaged with pretty good stuff/ It has decent tools and materials to tie a variety of common flies. It’s was put together for the very reasons y’all state, i.e. most kits are crap.
Kent - FlyFishGA
Well, Zach’s comment refers pretty much to one occurrence. Outside of that, anglers have been great about letting me know the fly was working for them on various species, bream to tarpon. And that’s the fun part of tying flies or helping anglers – getting the feedback that it works.
Kent - FlyFishGA
