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Excellent – thanks for sharing. Looks like a wonderful trip!
Thanks for the offer. I’ll certainly be back – I had a great time on a variety of water. Here are some images: https://flic.kr/s/aHskes8NEq
Nice images – esp that BW one. Really enjoy seeing the progress!
You’ll have to post some recent pictures – I’d love to see your progress. One of the things I love about this board is going through the archives and watching some folks start as newbies and progress to becoming amazing photographers. I wish I could replicate what many others on this board have done in developing their skills!
I’m sure some guys who really know what they are doing will chime in, but here are a couple thoughts from me.
1. There are certainly differences in file compression, etc. when creating a jpg image across difference software programs (including that built into your camera), but I don’t think I’d bother with RAW images from your camera if you are going to convert to jpg before any editing. This misses the real benefit of RAW files, which is that you have much more information to work with when making adjustments so the end result tends to look a lot better. For example, RAW files tend to save way more information in the shadows and highlights – helping you to do some serious exposure correction if you missed it in the field.
2. I’ve been using Lightroom for a few years now. I work in education and got a bit of a discount, but it has definitely been money well spent. So many folks recommended it that I didn’t really look into what else is out there. I’m not familiar with those programs you are using, but three things I really like about Lightroom that I’d look for when you choose a program are 1) Ability to edit RAW files 2) Easy cataloguing of photos (either the editing software plays well with another program or does it in house) 3) Has a system where the the original file is never altered (e.g., Lightroom works by creating another (small) file that stores the adjustments you made to a particular image. This file is linked to the original image file you made adjustments to, but that original image is unchanged- so all the information is there and you can always revert to the original. Images that adjust this original can be exported as jpgs to be used for viewing elsewhere).
I do a lot of work at the computer, so I try to limit the amount of time I’m on it for my hobbies and thus workflow is pretty quick. I’d love to hear what others do, but here’s mine:
1. Shoot RAW files, trying hard to get exposure right in camera.
2. Import to Lightroom, saving RAW files on external HD, omitting clearly out of focus or uninteresting shots from the import
3. Select the best photos from the import and edit only those (other photos imported remain saved in the HD, but I won’t take the time to edit). All edits in Lightroom. The most common adjustments are to shadows, black point, sharpness, white balance, noise reduction. I don’t mind cropping if needed.
4. On some occasions, I use certain Lightroom plugins or free/cheap software to do some stitching for panoramas, stacking for star trails or HDR, and so on. I think the newest Lightroom builds in some of these features, but generally I’ve used them so seldom that I’ve found the software I’ve acquired satisfactory for the task.
5. Export those edited photos to a temporary folder, saving them as jpgs
6. Upload the jpgs to an image hosting service
7. This is everything other than backing up. I make copies of my external HDs (for work and photos) and store them in different locations. I keep temporary folders on my computer until I’ve backed up my computer a few times. I keep RAW files on my camera’s SD cards until they are nearly full, deleting them by reformatting the card in camera (not when importing) – and only doing that after they have been imported to LR and put on a HD, that HD has been backed up, and jpgs have been created and uploaded to the image hosting service. In this way I should always have at least two copies of both the RAW and jpgs of any image that is remotely decent, and those copies are spread over multiple physical locations.
Hope this is helpful. Looking forward to seeing your progress and hearing about others’ workflow.
Absolutely ridiculous fish and photos! Thanks for sharing.
Great question – this issue confused me as well when I started looking into cameras with interchangeable lenses.
It’s funny how the point and shoot cameras with their “_X” zoom designations to make things seem simple, actually end up making it more confusing. 16X just refers to the range of focal lengths. For example, on the Panasonic camera you mention, the longest focal length is 400mm (actually, the equivalent of that on a 35mm camera). So if the zoom is 16X, that means the shortest focal length for the camera (i.e., the widest angle of view) would be 400/16=25mm (35mm equivalent).
With the ASP-C sensor Canon you mention, the crop factor is about 1.6 (good article on what a crop factor is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor). This means that the 35mm equivalent of the focal length will be 1.6 times the focal length of the lens you use. So the 18-55mm gives an equivalent field of view on the ASP-C sensor as a 30-88mm on a 35mm sensor (note that a 35mm sensor on a digital camera is often called a “full-frame” sensor). This lens would have a 55/18=3X zoom factor.
So with the two lenses you mention, the T5i will give you focal lengths (in 35mm equivalent) of 30-400mm. With the Panasonic, you’d have coverage from 25-400mm (in 35mm equivalent). So you’ve found two systems that give basically the same coverage in terms of different angles of view. So yes, with both at their maximum focal length, that elephant will cover the same amount o the frame.
I don’t know much about either of these cameras (or the lenses), but I’d be inclined to go with the camera with the larger sensor. Larger sensors generally improve image quality, especially when there is less light. That DSLR will probably also give you some additional features that are helpful.
Whatever you go with, make sure to spend plenty of time with it learning functions, etc. before your trip!
Thanks for the info. I’ll have to adjust my expectations and play around with with the pop-up flash a bit more. I had made an adaptor for the pop-up flash with a Pringles can (e.g., http://petapixel.com/2011/04/26/use-a-pringles-can-as-a-cheap-diffuser-for-macro-photos/), but while it worked ok, it doesn’t have the durability for slingling over a should on-stream.
Thanks guys – and nice shots Chad!
Great photos (as usual)! The light and color on the bugs are awesome.
Can I ask what you are using for a on-stream macro setup? In particular – are you adding light and, if so, how? Any recommendations for a macro flash setup for a wading angler (i.e. not too expensive (in case of water damage) or bulky)?
Great advice Kent!
I only sight fish for these in clear water. Definitely a fish you need to read the body language of and get the fly close. My preferred method is to find those laid up or gulping fish then cast such that you retrieve the fly perpendicular to the fish. I like to pause and let the fly drop right in their face and that’s when they take (I have no weight so the fly sinks slowly – about 1ips – and so I can cast a fly on a 5wt). The pause in their face is ot what you do for most fish, but as Kent said, these guys lay up waiting for the ambush.
I like the look of that fly you tied. I’d fray the rope a little more so you get a better tangle.
Also, be sure to take some needle nose pliers to get the rope out. It can get tangled and trap the fish’s mouth shut so you want to be sure to remove it (at the same time, watching the teach, which are sharp, but more needle than saw blade).
Awesome! Way to get the whole family on the water!
White bass can be tough to time right – especially with such unusual weather as we had this winter. I’m hoping I can still find some this week up in Middle TN.
Failed to find them last week, but caught a carp on a sinking line (a first for me):
I’m impressed by the pano selfie – in a moving boat no less.
Incredible fish Travis!
Cool pictures – they really make the cool, wet weather come across to the viewer!
Very nice – thanks for sharing!
Happy birthday! And an excellent TR – thanks!