Darryl Lampert
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Let us know when and where they are published please. All good this side, tomorrow is probably the last day I will be able to fish before our season closes at the end of the month. After that it’s gonna be a sad 3 months as usual!
Great to have you Darryl. Is it common for South African anglers to get over to New Zealand? It’s a long way for you too, but I wondered if there was a favorable flight schedule.
Zach
Hi Zach, I don’t think it’s that common amongst South Africans as it’s far and expensive (especially with our exchange rate being weak). I went in 2011 and flew from Cape Town to Johannesburg (2 hours), Johannesburg to Sydney (12 hours) and Sydney to Christchurch (4 hours). You can get cheaper flights via Dubai or Singapore but with stop overs it’s even longer. The trip is however well worth it if you can get out there. Hoping to get there again in 2016.
Darryl
Darryl Lampert, 47, live in Cape Town South Africa. Married with 2 daughters (14,16). Earn a living in IT. Been fly fishing since the age of 7 for trout predominantly, but happy to fish for anything with fins when I get the opportunity. Been to the South Island once and planning to go back again. Occasionally write articles and enjoy photography. Been lurking for several years.
Jack,
I agree with Mike, the 17-55 is a great lens! I use the 10-22 (17-55 was around when I bought it) but it’s only fractionally cheaper than the 17-55. Spend the money on the glass, you won’t be sorry.
Jack,
Something to consider with the 7D vs 650D – the 7D is heavier, bulkier and will require a better tripod. Something to consider if you are doing a lot of hiking. Don’t be put off by the 7D being a couple of years old, it’s still an excellent camera. Having said that I agree with the others, buy the cheaper body and spend your money on the better quality lenses.
Hi Morsie,
I use a Sennheiser MKE-400 Mini Shotgun Mic which is very small, plugs into the hot shoe, reduces wind noise dramatically and takes away the horrible camera noise that you get if you use the onboard mic. You also get a windjammer for it although standard is pretty good.
Depending on your operating system and hardware setup you might be able to run RAID1 (drive mirroring) or use external storage like Drobo which is running raid already. Over the years I have had too many of the “cheap” RAID solutions fail so prefer to do things manually.
I have a couple of internal hard drives which are backed up to an external hard drive using a batch file and xcopy 🙂 This is scheduled to run every night via the Windows Task Scheduler. I then have a second external hard drive which is backed up the same way but kept off site.
xcopy c:data*.* /s /e /v /c /d /y d:data
You can substitute the c:data and d:data with whatever drives or subdirectories you like. This command will only copy the files which have changed since the last time you copied.
If you prefer to be able to run it when you want to, just create a shortcut on the desktop to the batch file. It is simple to setup, simple to check if working and free.
There is one thing that is still eluding me though: many of you commented on a higher shutter speed, which I tried to some extent. The problem was, however, that when I had the flash connected I could not go any higher than 250th. I read about this in the flash manual but do not know how to circumvent it or make adjustments otherwise. Should I remove the flash, or just bump the ISO
Thanks,
D.Hi Dusty,
To shoot with flash above 1/250th, set your flash to High Speed Sync by pressing the button on the flash to the right of the Mode button that looks like an H with a lightning sign next to it. This will allow you to shoot at whatever speed you like.
Getting back to the pic you posted, are you unhappy about the fact that the Skoal tin is out of focus? If so, I think this is a combination of the slowish shutter speed, focus point selection and F4 aperture (your nephews face is fairly sharp). I agree with the other guys re not using a tripod when shooting kids. Get yourself a nice flash diffuser or make one and make sure you review a couple of your pics during your shoot and adjust accordingly.
Hope it helps,
DarrylHi Dusty,
I am not sure what the protocol is on the site ito non-flyfishing pics but the best would be to post one or two of the “bad” pics along with the EXIF info intact.
Hi Mike,
My choices are based on hiking where weight can be an issue:
Macro: – consider the Canon EF-S 60mm Macro (96mm on 1.6X bodies). It is super light and IQ is equal to the 100mm.
Walk-around: – Canon EF 24-105 F4L
Wide:- Canon EF-S 10-22mm (you didn’t ask but its a great lens)
Tele: – the Canon EF 400 5.6 is cheaper, lighter, faster AF and better IQ compared to the 100-400 without the versatility. The fact that you mainly shoot at 400 would make it a good contender. In the 70-200 range the 70-200 F4 L IS is a superb lens and way lighter than the F2.8. If you are going to hike anywhere then go for the F4.
Flash: Canon 580 EX II
Battery Grip – I just carry a second battery – again weight driven
If you stick to the 10-22, 24-105 and 100-400 – they all use a 77mm filter so you can buy one decent circular polariser.
Darryl,
Photo Mechanic is a great programme, but it is purely for editing purposes – it can not process RAW files like ACR does.
The way I see it at the moment is that Adobe Camera RAW gives me the “look” I am after, exactly the same RAW processing engine as Lightroom they say, but without all the extra database nightmare etc.
How about the 2nd Lions test yesterday ? What a game………..heartbroken !!
Henry, yup I downloaded a trial of Photo Mechanic and see that it can’t process RAW – no problem, I also use ACR.
The 2nd test was nail biting!
Hi Henry,
Thanks for the detailed answer. I also tried Lightroom when it came out and hated it, perhaps I must give v2 a try although like you I hate the fact that it uses a seperate database. I will give Photo Mechanic a bash and see what it’s like. Thanks, Darryl
