anonymous
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Technicaly “No” , it’s not in TU’s Mission Statement as pertains to stream access; however, what is TU “protecting” trout for if it’s members cannot gain access to them? Suppose EVERYBODY was wealthy enough to “own” their own private stream. We would all have our own fish to “protect” and fish – then what would we need TU for? I don’t want my money going to protect and/or restore trout and habitat for some private organization or individual who would then prevent me from fishing those very fish. I’m afraid TU’s “Big Wigs” are more concerned with alienating potential big donors than it is with the grassroots member’s ability to gain access to fish. If TU’s Pres. gets his way, you’ll find an ever decreasing stream/river accessability as they would choose NOT to get involved.
David:
Technically, he is right. It’s not in the mission statement. Neither is anything about fishing. Although these are important issues to every angler, TU’s mission is very specific and limited to conservation of trout and their watersheds.
I continually run into folks in our local area and even some members in our chapter who think TU is a fly fishing “club.” Wrong! That’s FFF’s mission–to promote and educate about the sport of fly fishing.
I am happy that our chapter has been able to improve stream access on our tailwaters, but that is only ancillary to the main goal of our habitat work. “To conserve, protect and restore …” yada yada yada.
No defining moment here. That’s been the mission since its inception.
Respectfully,
ScottTy Ian:)
Those were taken on basically small black leech patterns, it,s spring here we have a leech hatch-
Stu calls them his own pet name for the pattern ,but for the most part
Tim:
A. K. Best continues to use Park’s clear lacquer for head cement. I used it for several years, and it does a good job. You just have to throw out the contents of your head cement bottle from time to time and refill. You can find it at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
If you want something that really looks nice, try the Orvis high gloss head cement. It does a nice job for streamers where you want to show off the head and painted eyes. I like it for Deceivers.
I use Zap-A-Gap in lieu of head cement on nymphs. Just bead it up on the threads and take about 5 wraps around. Hold for a few seconds and trim. The trick is learning to spread small beads on the thread.
Would suggest anyone interested in this topic pick up a copy of Schwiebert’s _Matching the Hatch_. His book published in 1955 started the “matching the hatch” movement and the precise imitation school.
The matching the hatch philosophy was developed as an answer to fishing to selective trout during a hatch event. If you have never experienced selective trout, it is hard to understand how important the concept can be.
It is more important on some streams than others, but I would venture to say all trout waters can produce selective trout at times where the fish key in on naturals, or a stage of the naturals, to the exclusion of all else.
I see stocked rainbows regularly key in a some hatch events here on the White. It does not take them very long to learn what to eat. Fortunately for most anglers, those times are rather limited, but a person who has some skill with matching the hatch can find exceptional fishing during times that prove difficult for the casual angler.
If anyone is in the Tulsa area, I will be speaking on some aspect of this subject at the June 14th meeting of the TulsaFlyFishers.org. Would love to meet anyone from the board that can come.
Man, I’m glad someone is broaching this subject!
I have always paid more attention to color and size rather than a particular fly “species”.
Hi
On some things I’ll agree and others I’ll veer off:)
A medium/medium fast action rod with a properly balanced line for the rod ( important distinction), will get you on track faster, feeling rod/line loading. If I were teaching someone I would have them stick to that rod/line combo for the a while.
Teach them the distinction between pushing and
Billy:
Did some checking back into my river reports. In 1998 we had a convergence year of the 13 and 17 year cicadas hatch on the White. A very rare event. We will not see another convergence in this century. I would guess that the northern Arkansas hatches would hold true for the Little Red. Some one else might know more.
Next hatch should be in 2011.
I,ve tried a few!!!???
PT Assembler is the one I settled on- very smart auto stitching and very deep “you create your own nighmare controls”:))))
http://www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr.htm
Windows only I believe for what that is worth.
a hand held pan 3x3888x… pixel stitch, which this program seems to have no problems dealing with. Excuse the crappy exposure , my issue not the program:)
There is a decent tutorial and support backup and a forum on Max’s site.
Will
Jake:
Unfortunately, the closest flowing waters with smallmouth I know of for you are:
1) Spring and Shoal Creek – around Joplin and Carthage
2) Elk River – south of Joplin down around the AR line
3) Upper Illinois and Flint Creek – west of Siloam Springs, AR in OKYou might check into some of the rock quarry and pit mine lakes in SE Kansas around Coffeyville and Independence. I know some of them put in trout in the winter months. So some of them may have some smallmouth also. Would be fun in a kick boat or pontoon.
Maybe someone else knows of some other options.
I really liked the first shot Phil. Very nice composition. Shows you have a lot of creativeness.
Might make a nice project to work on. Two things would improve it to my eye.
1) Try redoing it with a carefully wound line. Would make a good ad shot.
2) Let the reel rest on the rock. I keep wondering who’s holding the rod up.Sage:
All the rods I have seen coming from the factory have the butt section placed down in the sock (handle up near the opening) and the rest of the sections with their butt ends down first (tips up). Don’t know how else to say it.
If your rod tube does not have a piece of foam in the bottom of the tube, you might consider inserting one just to cushion things when you drop the rod sack in.
I’ve never seen a rod damaged from dropping a tube on its end. More common problem is sealing the tube up with a wet rod and leaving it to damage the rod either through mold on the thread wraps or swelling the wood reel seat.
I hope Scott Branyan sees this …
See indeed. Matt, you are a dirty dog :-). How could you take advantage of such a deal ;D
Sorry I don’t know much about the gel coat process. My fiberglassing experience is limited to laying out cloth with epoxy on wood. Some people are able to tackle it, others aren’t happy with how it comes out. The chine area will be what you beat up on the boat the most here on the White. It also affect how the boat tracks. How does the chine look?
Dave’s boats (870) 404-9278 (cell) in Gassville is now a Hyde dealer for this area, so next time you are down here, it might be worth touching base with him. He may have an established relationship with someone in the area that will do the fiberglass repairs on drift boats. He’s located on 412 heading toward Mt Home before the A&W.
Enjoy your new boat! Will look forward to photos.
