anonymous
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Would suggest anyone interested in this topic pick up a copy of Schwiebert’s _Matching the Hatch_. His book published in 1955 started the “matching the hatch” movement and the precise imitation school.
The matching the hatch philosophy was developed as an answer to fishing to selective trout during a hatch event. If you have never experienced selective trout, it is hard to understand how important the concept can be.
It is more important on some streams than others, but I would venture to say all trout waters can produce selective trout at times where the fish key in on naturals, or a stage of the naturals, to the exclusion of all else.
I see stocked rainbows regularly key in a some hatch events here on the White. It does not take them very long to learn what to eat. Fortunately for most anglers, those times are rather limited, but a person who has some skill with matching the hatch can find exceptional fishing during times that prove difficult for the casual angler.
If anyone is in the Tulsa area, I will be speaking on some aspect of this subject at the June 14th meeting of the TulsaFlyFishers.org. Would love to meet anyone from the board that can come.
Man, I’m glad someone is broaching this subject!
I have always paid more attention to color and size rather than a particular fly “species”.
Hi
On some things I’ll agree and others I’ll veer off:)
A medium/medium fast action rod with a properly balanced line for the rod ( important distinction), will get you on track faster, feeling rod/line loading. If I were teaching someone I would have them stick to that rod/line combo for the a while.
Teach them the distinction between pushing and
Billy:
Did some checking back into my river reports. In 1998 we had a convergence year of the 13 and 17 year cicadas hatch on the White. A very rare event. We will not see another convergence in this century. I would guess that the northern Arkansas hatches would hold true for the Little Red. Some one else might know more.
Next hatch should be in 2011.
I,ve tried a few!!!???
PT Assembler is the one I settled on- very smart auto stitching and very deep “you create your own nighmare controls”:))))
http://www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr.htm
Windows only I believe for what that is worth.
a hand held pan 3x3888x… pixel stitch, which this program seems to have no problems dealing with. Excuse the crappy exposure , my issue not the program:)
There is a decent tutorial and support backup and a forum on Max’s site.
Will
Jake:
Unfortunately, the closest flowing waters with smallmouth I know of for you are:
1) Spring and Shoal Creek – around Joplin and Carthage
2) Elk River – south of Joplin down around the AR line
3) Upper Illinois and Flint Creek – west of Siloam Springs, AR in OKYou might check into some of the rock quarry and pit mine lakes in SE Kansas around Coffeyville and Independence. I know some of them put in trout in the winter months. So some of them may have some smallmouth also. Would be fun in a kick boat or pontoon.
Maybe someone else knows of some other options.
I really liked the first shot Phil. Very nice composition. Shows you have a lot of creativeness.
Might make a nice project to work on. Two things would improve it to my eye.
1) Try redoing it with a carefully wound line. Would make a good ad shot.
2) Let the reel rest on the rock. I keep wondering who’s holding the rod up.Sage:
All the rods I have seen coming from the factory have the butt section placed down in the sock (handle up near the opening) and the rest of the sections with their butt ends down first (tips up). Don’t know how else to say it.
If your rod tube does not have a piece of foam in the bottom of the tube, you might consider inserting one just to cushion things when you drop the rod sack in.
I’ve never seen a rod damaged from dropping a tube on its end. More common problem is sealing the tube up with a wet rod and leaving it to damage the rod either through mold on the thread wraps or swelling the wood reel seat.
I hope Scott Branyan sees this …
See indeed. Matt, you are a dirty dog :-). How could you take advantage of such a deal ;D
Sorry I don’t know much about the gel coat process. My fiberglassing experience is limited to laying out cloth with epoxy on wood. Some people are able to tackle it, others aren’t happy with how it comes out. The chine area will be what you beat up on the boat the most here on the White. It also affect how the boat tracks. How does the chine look?
Dave’s boats (870) 404-9278 (cell) in Gassville is now a Hyde dealer for this area, so next time you are down here, it might be worth touching base with him. He may have an established relationship with someone in the area that will do the fiberglass repairs on drift boats. He’s located on 412 heading toward Mt Home before the A&W.
Enjoy your new boat! Will look forward to photos.
Add these folks as someone who advertises “switch” rods in thir lineup
I suspect there are a number of makers rods being used as “switch” rods especially in the lighter wt’s
Jake:
I still remember my first trip to Crane, and it too was difficult. Take cheer, however, and don’t be afraid to take your time learning it. It will teach you important lessons.
Crane can be tough at low water like any other creek. The upper conservation area is harder to fish at low water. You might actually try the park area in town. I have not fished it in the park, but have heard from a number of folks that it can fish well at times. The lower conservation area has a lot more habitat and better flows. It’s also where I’ve seen more snakes.
Pick your times. It fishes better after rains and especially if there is a little stain to the water. I rarely fish it in the summer months because of snakes and pests. November through March is about ideal and the brush has died back then.
The fish are not picky on patterns. They see a lot of different bugs and are not generally selective. I do well on standard nymphs like PTs and Princes, EHC and parachutes, and also some streamers. But the fish are wild, and you get one crack at them on the take. You will not fool them a second time that day. Move on. The fish hold in the classic places like undercut banks, log jams and deeper pools. I rarely see them in shallow areas unless it is a very fast run with good overhead cover. The stream calls for short rods, short leaders and as heavy a tippet as you can get away with, otherwise you will loose a lot of fish and flies in the snags and overhangs. I rarely fish 6x there. 4x is better but may keep you from getting deep enough. Tungsten beadheads actually help on this stream.
Roaring River catch and release area is a good place to hone your spring creek skills. Talk to Tim Homesley at his Orvis shop at the top of HWY 112 going out of the park towards Cassville. Tim has fished the area more than anyone and knows all its secrets :-).
Be sure to check out the other streams as you have opportunity. The North Fork as Grant has mentioned is one of the best. Definitely check with Matt as Zach has suggested. Missouri has some fine spring creeks.
Happy fishing.
Mark:
Kelly’s style is big flies and aggressive presentation, and it is a fun way to fish. Bear in mind, however, Kelly is a former weight lifter and in excellent shape. Most anglers don’t have the stamina to fish the way he does for very long nor do they have their casting mechanics down like they need to to fish in this manner. Athletic types will enjoy it though.
Joseph Bates, _Streamer Fly Tying and Fishing_, is about the finest book on streamer fishing there is. History, fishing tactics and tying are all covered.
The book was expanded after his death by his daughter and reprinted in 1995. The wealth of information on the American history of streamer fishing is excellent.
