Neal Osborn
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Don’t be wimpy Dusty. Hold them ninnies to task, lift up your fish with pride despite the size.
See . . . this is a much smaller bass than yours . . . I win, ha!
She fought hard and it took me a good 4 seconds to land on the 3 weight.
WOW, John. Beast of equipment.
Not only is that 500mm one Badass lens . . . BUT . . . you also managed to give a great example of natural framing with that brush in the background and the rack framing your head on the first photograph. That’s a Trifecta my fiend. Strong work. 😀
Flat out wonderful shots! I am often glad my interests are not in wildlife photography, it’s much simpler in the controlled studio with macro lenses, ha.
JKilroy . . . IMHO either of the new generation waterproof cameras from Olympus or Pentax are excellent choices for fisherman. I own the Olympus and carry it with me anytime I’m on the water, even if I have my DSLR along. I have experience with both brands and actually recommend the Pentax because it allows you to do a custom white balance and adjust ISO easier (if that jargon sounds foreign, don’t worry, it just means the Pentax is a bit more advanced and flexible if you get more in to photography, i.e. more room to grow). I have no experience with the Fuji, but they are newer in the game so it might be best to stay clear, just saying.
Here’s a review and slideshow on waterproof P&S from Fly Art http://flyartstudio.com/wordpress/?p=323and
Here are a few old posts from the IA board on the topic
http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?num=1232725143/0#0
http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?num=1224118789/0#0
http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?num=1216704351/9#9
Olle . . . Congratulations on the 35mm! Nice picture, I like the tight crop. That lens is so popular in the states that all suppliers are backordered. You got lucky to get your hands on one. I recommend that you start walking around with just the lens on your camera body (no flash or accessories) and take about 25-50 shots a day for practice. Don’t forget to delete the non-keepers. You will soon learn the pros/cons of the lens in certain situations and also certain f stops, etc. The depth of field at 1.8 can be tricky up close, like in portraits, and mapping it out in your head will help for placement of subjects in the future. Try it at f 1.8/4/5.6/8 on the same subject and then compare the photos at 100% to see the differences in DOF and sharpness.
One final comment (from experience and much cursing) – IMHO – the 35-50mm 1.4/1.8’s are best employed with the camera on manual. If you use A mode (i.e f 1.8), the camera will often default to weird shutter compensation in an attempt to “auto” the exposure. to get the creamy artsy shots you need to be in charge and dial in the settings and ISO according to the desired outcome.
Have fun, prime lenses are a blast.
LMAO David. That is a great markup retouch of Bob and me. I CAN”T WAIT to see the LR3 brushes, especially the rumors on the new Philistine Correctus 😉
Bob, please show Brenda a copy of David’s picture. Unfortunately, everything in photography has a side effect – for my end, these brushes just gave me a big head, LOL.
David, I really like how you employ the sky as a big framing element and mention that it too can add “weight” and “mood”. Very intriguing . . . never really thought about weight in my compositions but it does speak to “balance” and I see how one could use it for creative framing. Thanks again.
Mike – if you keep up on those safari trips, I suspect we are going to eventually here about your new 300/400 lens purchase 😉
David – your comment about making the eye wonder and then follow is exactly what I’m after. It is amazing how the art of composition can add so much to a photograph. Thanks for the advice.
Morsie – that shot of the boat framed by trees is the kind of fishing shot I’m thinking about. Nice capture.
edit: you must have been adding more images while I was typing the reply, good stuff – all.
This link http://www.johnlovett.com/test.htm from John Lovett has been my go-to principle piece on composition for some time. I have even redrawn it myself by hand in an attempt to understand the principles of design. As I broaden my shoots to outdoors, it is often a challenge to remember composition, balance, harmony, edges, lines, and direction. However, when they come together (and if I remember to think about them in the rage of excitement) it adds to final image “in camera”, which makes post production much easier. Less crop and cram and more originality. Lately, I’ve been trying to go for some natural framing effects like employing trees, leaves, boats, people etc., who knows what will turn up.
I thought about this thread during my recent trips. Had some fun shooting in to the light and also using the Simcox low light/horizon late day sun technique.
Hard mid day light directly behind subject
Hard mid day light portrait shoot (sun behind subject’s head)
Low light horizon
Very low light horizon (almost gone) behind subjects (Brett and Charlie fishing)
Baked! Full Monty – Open Sun! Not my style, but it works “o.k.” for this shot.
Here are a few more images. Also, I learned how to do Polarization in Photoshop, so the original images on page one have been reloaded with a post-circ-pol.
Artsy portrait shot on the flats.
Fishing in the open water on day two. These are shots of Brett and Charlie having at it with the spin reels.
