[John Bennett]

Thanks guys, to answer your questions. The ties aren’t mine. I’m terrbile at tieing. My own cant stand up to the naked eye, let alone 1:1 macro or more 🙂 good thing the fish arent fussy or so demanding. Mine look like somthing a cat would hack up. All ties I take photos of are bought or have been graciously donated to me so I can ramp up my library.

Hardware is a 1:1 macro (180mm) and 68mm in Tubes. If I have the math and resulting ratio right that gives me about 1.5 : 1 (or more).

[John Bennett]

Something seems screwy.
ISO 200 1/15th f4.5 I can undertand a camera on auto choosing, even flash (when there isnt enough light) but

+2.0 EV and flash firing I cant, especially in an auto mode unless its Program mode which is exactly the same as your green box full auto but with the ability to change/override some settings. I dont know, off the top of my head of any camera that allows a user to dial in exp comp at the full auto level. The body would never use exp comp, it would simply adjust one of ISO, Fstop or SS to compensate.

Somwhere in your menus should be an option to reset all settings to factory default. See if you can find that and then do it. It may or may not help, but theres little to lose except in camera processing options (jpeg) and a few others you may need to redo.

[John Bennett]

Still no interent connection for me at home. Hopefully by tonight I’ll be back up and can give it a go.

Bringing detail out of clipped shadows isnt hard and a little neat image/noise ninja etc can take care of any resultant noise. As Kevin noted, recovering blown highlights is another matter. Of the two its better to “underexpose” than “overexpose”. Theres just not alot you can do with bown highlights.

Im still curious as to what might have caused your camera to overexpose so much if it was in full auto.
It just shouldn’t happen. Exposure comps +/- are disabled in auto modes, in fact any setting the user leaves are. The cameras have “preset” ISO, f stops, etc for each auto mode (sports, backlight, landscape etc)and then adjust accordingly for “proper exposures”. Even the metering modes are preset. Tim, are you sure you were in full auto? If you were in “P” ( full auto with some user lattitude) that might explain whats occured.

Any chance you could post the EXIF?

[John Bennett]

I can have a go at it in a day or two. In the process of converting a spare room to an office/studio and as such converting my desktop to wireless…Nothing but trouble, even the tech guy couldnt get the pc to recognise the wireless adapter..signal is fine as we tested on his laptop…Grrr. Enough of my troubles though.

Anyways I’m no PS expert but it looks saveable and can be improved on. Once I have a net connection (hopefully within a couple days I’ll make an attempt).

As for why your camera overexposd in auto mode.
No idea. The only thing I can think of looking at at the image is that it exposed for her purple sweater ( partial or spot metering) and all the highlights around her ended up being blown.

[John Bennett]

Kendal if you re thinking of adding a full frame like the 5D I’d give more thought to it.

By getting the 17-40 f4 L which is a bit cheaper you save a bit of money and get a lens with slightly better glass, better build quality  and double the focal range vs 10-22 f3.5 to 4.5.

17-40 on a 5D vs 10-22 on an XTI.
At the wide end Id want the 17-40 on a 5D and theres no comparison which wins the long end

70-200 on a 5D vs 70-200 on the XTI
Id want the 70-200 on the XTI for the crop factor.

The 17-40 can be used on the XTI in the interim without sacrificing much relative to the 10-22 until you buy a 5D. Once you do buy the 5D the combination of using the 5D for WA and XTI for mid range and reach is more powerful as your playing to the boidies “strengths” rather than vice versa ( 10-22 on XTI, 70-200 on 5D).

J
/edit
Forgot to add. Youd still have 2 lenses capable of being used on any body, rather than needing the XTI for WA stuff. Youd have nothing to put on the 5D at the wide end. If your XTI ends up in the shop (shutter replacement) ……….

[John Bennett]

Gladly Phil.

I’m in the process of changing it over from predominantly Bird to more hunting/fishing related content. As i expand my library it hsould change in tone and content dramatically over the next few months.

http://jben.zenfolio.com

[John Bennett]

Ive heard nothing but good things about it. Its not “L” glass or build quality but its as close as you can get without the designation. The only drawback is the EF-S which means absolutely squat if you never plan on buying a Canon Body thats not one of the 1.6 crop bodies

Specifically the 5D and 1D series.

If you *do* plan/hope to one day buy a 5D or 1D Id probalby not buy it, or give it alot of thought
EF-S lenses are a little harder to sell, dont hold their value quite as well as the EF.

[John Bennett]

Thats my “Holy Grail” Joel.
To get Ospreys as they crash into water and again as they exit. Ive gotten Terns doing it and ive gotten a couple Osprey but in the Osprey case from too great a distance.

I’m very familiar with Miguels work. He is an amazing Bird/wildlife photogrpaher.

Something you should know though, and while I personally have none/nada/zip problems with the practise the vast majority of such images, whether its Osprey taking rainbows, or Owls taking mice are baited.

The “odds” of getting Birds of Prey taking prey in the wild are slim, extremely slim especially when the bird is facing or flying towards the photogrpaher.

Ive tried everything short of it.
By Pontoon, by canoe, waiting hours in small ponds/lakes they frequent to trailing them by motorboat as they cruise above actively hunting.

being on the spot at the right time and getting the right angle from birds that are normally very wary of humans……….

Does he bait?
ive heard he does, I dont know, I dont care..I labsolutely ove his images.

I do have philosphical problems with people who buy Rainbows at stores and introduce them to foreign waters though or transport minnows/coarse fish for King Fishers and the like. Yes, there are people who use aqauriums with minnows in them to bait Kingfishers and very likely dump any when they are done, not mention escapees.

[John Bennett]

Thanks again 🙂

Ben, the *only* time I’ll flash Deer is when they are in strong sidelight and Im looking to add a little fill.
As you know I have a BB (Fresnel lens) which doubles a flashes output and with a RRS B87B I can get the flash off body avoiding Steel eye. However, by far I simply prefer to shoot them in natural light. Even when light is very low or non existant.
ISO 800 1/1600th at F5.6

heres one where I could have used fill but I like the shadow cast by the strong sidelight, the catchlight in the right eye and the “contrast” between the lit/unlit sides

Cutting my teeth so to speak on Wildlife where Im used to shooting natural light, the rain, the fog…whatever “nature” throws at me without using flash I think may be part of my “bias” against flash.
Shooting in poor light, at high ISOs and low shutter speeds doesn’t deter me. I know I can get good results w/o flash.
ISO 800 at 400mm handheld @ 1/50th

Dawn, very liitle light, just enough to bring out highlights
ISO 400 at F1.8

But I do *know* I need to start using flash more. To me its another aspect of photography requiring different specialised tools and techniques. Just as getting the best results from macro photogrpahy or wedding photography or sports photogrpaphy…The foundations and principles are the same/similiar but very different to, requiring different tools.

Thanks Eric.
Thats one reason why I’ve asked for advice and tips here. The “photography” website I participate on, while loaded with many great photogrpahers with varied “strengths” ( some are great Macro shooters, some are great Bird shooters, some are great Portrait shooters etc) no-one there (imo) are died in the wool “Outdoors” people. Some would get lost on park paths 🙂 and some are outright hostile against hunters/anglers yet wouldnt know a dozen fish and game laws themselves…Thats a different rant though 🙂

This is the one site on the net Im aware of, where “Outdoors” people who also do some serious photography and who wil understand the challenges of shooting fishing/hunting come together. Its a unique blend.

Anyways while a couple have made many similiar suggestions about using strobes to solve the problem they are approaching it mainly as people who utilise strobes in studio type shots.

All the best laid plans could be shot to hell in a handbasket if its raining, or fogged in, or….. I’ll still be expected to produce though, its a go, rain or shine….Or as you said the Toms themselves could screw everything up.

Im breaking this down into 3 phases.
1) Pre hunt shoot which is whatever I can do from the moment we arrive in the dark to the moment we hunker down in the blinds before sunup. I’ll be in a camp chair style blind with a pullover “roof”. I dont think there will be room for my tripod so Im bringing my self standing Manfrotto monopod along as well.

2) Inside the blinds while waiting for Tom, Im not planning on taking many shots other than some Landscape/Enviroment shots. If I have a backup Im thinking I may set the back up with a WA up on the tripod outside my blind, prefocused and then trigger via cable release from inside the blind. Inside the blind I’ll have my 1D with 85mm f1.8, 180 f3.5 and 400 f5.6 to choose from. I may, might, just maybe chance shots of the Toms themselves but unless its at 75 feet I dont want to chance spooking them via the sound of the shutter releasing. The hunter will be in a 2 man Dog house type blind.

As for capturing the moment when he fires …luck more than anything else 🙂

3) After the hunt assuming hes succesful
I’ll be busy taking the vast majority of shots..Everything from staged shots to whatever we can dream up. I may buy and bring along a ground blind, their cheap at 20 bucks and its not like I cant use it myself for as you noted the back to the tree shots. If were lucky and he tags a Tom early we will go to a seconday location for the explicit purpose of calling a Tom for some good shots.

thanks for the link, Im going to study it.

J

/edit
Double thanks for the link, Ive gotten some great ideas.
Not the least of which is dressing my 14yr old daughter up in my camo this weekend and taking some “prop” shots with a our two Diamond Comps and my Martin recurve.

[John Bennett]

Its cool Ben and it does apply, no appolgies needed 🙂 I do want to get those shots as well and will need to. Flash will be a part of that so I need to use it and get better at it. That said, the bulk will be during the daylight where I presume Im mostly looking at fill flash and Im ok and getting better at fill.Bascially, basic flash techniques 🙂

Its the advanced stuff requiring more gear, more technical know how and what not that /searches for right words…Im not putting high priority on..

I guess it the difference between a wedding photographer who wants to some long lens or macro photography and a wildlife Outdoors shooter who occassionally needs better lighting technques.

So when it comes to “prioritising” purchases my inclination is towards things that further wildlife shooting and I guess action shots of the same. One day I hope to have most of it but Rome wasnt built in a day. Either way for now the next purchase is a 5D. I dont want to contnue to borrow spare bodies indefinately nor do I want my 1D failing during or just before an assigment, so thats priority #1.

[John Bennett]

Thanks Ben.
90% of it understandable 🙂 Fill Im comfortable with..or atleast mostly so. Ill read it a few times to digest it better 🙂

Flashing in utter darkness not so. I just finished one last week, it was an overnighter and as such part was a night fish to 11:00pm. Granted I was limited to the confines of the boat and only had the shoe but I tried a few different things from soft boxes, to positioning the head vertically and even spinning the head so it was more behind me.

Theres only a couple shots that Im ok with..Maybe Im too stringent 🙂 As for accessories…Ive got the BB and RRS B87B to get it off body. Cut my teeth on wildlife so fill during the day Im ok with..Flash as primary Im not. Its likekly also why Im very compfortable shooting in very little/low light with no assistance ..thats norm for wildlife but also why I often dont like flashed wildlife, it can look like crap if its not nailed.The preverbial deer in headlights 🙂

As for gear and assignments yeah no kidding. I just dropped a bunch on more RRS stuff and I havent bought the BH55 yet 🙁

But if I had to choose and I do.
A good backup body is more important than more strobes and flashes imo…Next up is a 5D, then the 70-200 f2.8 IS, then I still dream of getting a 500 f4 L. If I get alot of hunting stuff whats more important…strobes/stands/umbrellas/etc or the reach that could mean the difference of getting elusive game and not 🙂

If something comes up that screams alot of flash or studio shot work I’ll pass on it. Its imposible to have everything and be good at it all especially as someone whos just starting. My thing is Outdoors/Wildlife/fishing/hunting and while agree at some point I need to hone and bone up on flash photography……..

Trust me I have a list a mile long of stuff I need and my head aches at times trying to prioritise it all. My wallets nowhere big enough, nor my wifes patience. But some $ should be inc and that will help.

[John Bennett]

In no particular order

1) Adams
2) Elk Hair Caddis
3) Usual
4) Royal Wulff Stimulator
5) PT Nymph
6) HE Nymph
7) Wooley Bugger
8) Scud
9) Griffiths gnat
10) Hopper

[John Bennett]

Thats actually a pretty cool idea and would make for a nice shot Aaron., one Im going to stow for future reference.

The plan is to be done between 11am and noon, so I doubt I can stage something like that this time…but for future hunts, be it Turkey or Deer..chilling afterwards around a campfire would absolutely qualify as “lifestyle” shots..

Anyone with any amount of photogrpahy experience is suggesting I use strobes in one manner or another and I would tend to think its way to go for the *best* results. Im not going to argue with wisdom I dont have ….but as noted above there are problems to overcome with them to, most notably fumbling to set up in the dark, take it down in the dark, stow it and likely being limited by the hunters patience to get moving 🙂

Whereas sticking a standing flashlight + lite disc inside the trunk would take all 3 seconds. Plus the light then is coming from inside the trunk and may be indistinguishable from the trunks natural interior light.

Dunno…time will tell:) Im still open to any ideas and havent ruled anything out. Its a case of trying to find a method that quick and easy, practicle, not weather dependant ( rain or wind may be a factor)

[John Bennett]

Not really planning on taking too many of him inside the blind for those reasons.

As for strobes.
One: I dont have a mini studio and this doesnt pay that much to warrant purchasing a couple more + accessories

Two: Set up time. I doubt I have the time to set up anything elaborate before he want to get moving. If were late setting up the decoys and blinds…….

Three: Flash photography isnt my strength, so even if I had the strobes and stands and the time to set it up, take a few images and then take it down and stow it again, (which I really doubt I’ll have). Im not sure I could even pull it off without having that obviously flashed at night look. 🙂 I may try for a couple just with an off shoe if hes alright with getting flashed in the dark but Id like to avoid using flash if possible.

[John Bennett]

Thanks guys.

Here is how I’m hoping it will go but I want to remain flexible as even the best laid plans……

We’re to meet at 4am on a rural road and I assume make a trek of unknown distance to the hunters spot. So that could be 5 minutes or 20 minutes for all I know. Assuming all goes well he’ll start setting up the blinds (one for each of us) and then the decoys. For all the obvious reasons my blind will be about 20 feet behind and to the side of his. My guess is he wants to be in the blinds well before sunup.
I plan on bringing both my tripod and using a cable release from inside the blind with a WA to capture “the monent” or atleast try to.

Once were in the blinds its a waiting game. I havent decided if Im going to try for any shots of the birds with the 400 + TC. While my body is quiet and a 400 + TC offers aot of reach, I’d rather not chance being busted by the sound of the shutter. The hunter has said if its “money shot” he wont mind getting busted.

Assuming he bags a Tom then we’ll spend a fair bit of time doing the “staged” shots. Everything from gear, to him calling, to the exotics like looking down the barrel (maybe with muzzle blast and spent shells etc). to other staged shots like sighting while sitting against a tree and if time allows who knows maybe a quick to his secondary location to see if we can call in a Tom or Jake.

So that leaves the arrival in the dark and setting up blinds/decoys in the dark. They are want to see, not need to see. Meaning if I can pull some off its gravy. id really like to pull some off for the editor though as I gather he doesnt get any in dark images that arent flashed or obviously light assisted.
Its supposed to be a full moon that night and if the nights clear Im pretty sure I can use the moonlight at F1.8 so long as he’s frontlit by it. Id love a couple with the moon in BG though and thats the problem.

How to expose for the moon, yet get just enough light on the subject to illumiinate some highlights.
I may even try bouncing some moonlight back at him assuming its bright moon with a reflector or mirror if I can, not sure that will be enough though and where painting or using a bounced flashlight might have to come in.

J

[John Bennett]

Thanks guys.

Patrick I use Canons 1DMKIIN and in this case with the 24-70 f2.8 L

[John Bennett]

Nice Patrick.

[John Bennett]

Thanks Drifter.
I had wondered a bit about that having heard of it, never tried it. Not so different from putting some red celophane over the head of my light and bathing the area that way. I’ll play with that, see how it works with a 2 second or so exposure.

Its not a neccessity that I get useable images shot in the dark for them. They were more of a “wish list” but Id really like to come through and deliver a few images if I can. So anything thats reasonably easy for me to set up (a couple seconds) and doesnt make it appear too unnatural, is worth the the try.

J

[John Bennett]

I suspect although don’t know for sure for “justification”. Something I’m just learning about.

The short of it is, if a field editor writes an article saying….go here…do that
it should be justified in the article. Much like making sure fish displayed in Fly-fishing mags have flies in the mouths. Or if a writer says go to Belize and catch Bones the backgorund better be Belize 🙂

While its not a neccessity and that “stock” photos could be used, the preference is to have the writer featured (not a model) in the location hes writing about and employing the techniques. So I tihnk the big one here (again dont quote me) is that as much preference as possible be given to using images of the writer himself..not stand ins. Its a long drive for me and given we need to be on location at 4am some logistics are envolved making more than 1 go at it impracticle not the least of which is Im sure they dont want to pay me for a second day either 🙂

[John Bennett]

Bass doesn’t open on my waters until Jun 28th :'(
These are killing me, well done.

[Author]

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