Why do we buy these high end reels?
- This topic has 42 replies, 24 voices, and was last updated Nov 4, 2007 at 4:25 pm by
.
-
Posts
-
Object lust is hard to rationalize so I don’t try. I’ve got several Abel click and pawl Creek reels a Lamson and a couple of Sage reels. I really like the new Hatch reels they look good, I can’t wait to check one out in person. Who wouldn’t like to have a Tibor with their name on it! You might as well own what you want and feel good about it! I think the question is really how much reel do you need? If I fished for Tarpon or Bonefish or Permit often I would have to have a Tibor. It seems to be the reel that the top saltwater anglers use. I wouldn’t mind having a nice cane rod with a Peerless reel for trout but thats really a lot of money. Some things are just a pleasure to own and use. Fine guns and great cameras like the Leica or Hasselblad have a quality that transcends cost. Otherwise no one would buy them or cane rods and classy reels.
I should have looked at this earlier.
I’ve done a number of “tear downs” on reels ranging from the Okuma to Lamson to Ross to Tibor. There are very few differences from a 20 dollar Okuma China special and a top of the line reel, in terms of drag, start up inertia, and other features that people look for in reels. The main differences, as many people have pointed out so far, is the way they are made and the components used. It’s like comparing the Chevy Prism to a Cadillac. Both are gonna get you from A to B the same, but how comfortable you get there is the big difference. A Prism could last just as long as the Cadillac too, but it just might not be in the greatest shape at the end of it’s life. My point is, cheap reels will “get the job done” but they most likely not be as smooth, as reliable, and/or as pretty. I buy both “cheap” and expensive reels, depending on what I am using them for. Same goes with rods.
But then again, I am a hyper-consuming gear head. What do I know?
Nice summary Tim!
I see people use (cheap) basic reel and rod to catch fish, actually, I have more respect to them. Because they put themself in higher standard in catching a fish. Be honest, I do buy expensive rod and reel (and cheap one too). It’s all about the feel…I don’t believe a $350 Loop reel will live longer than $25 medalist. They pretty much last a life time ;D or last to several generations if you don’t lost them…
Another friends also told me, “Life is too short to use “not right” gear…” I like to find sometime fit me well and feel “the feeling” regardless the price tag ;DI should have looked at this earlier.
I’ve done a number of “tear downs” on reels ranging from the Okuma to Lamson to Ross to Tibor. There are very few differences from a 20 dollar Okuma China special and a top of the line reel, in terms of drag, start up inertia, and other features that people look for in reels. The main differences, as many people have pointed out so far, is the way they are made and the components used. It’s like comparing the Chevy Prism to a Cadillac. Both are gonna get you from A to B the same, but how comfortable you get there is the big difference. A Prism could last just as long as the Cadillac too, but it just might not be in the greatest shape at the end of it’s life. My point is, cheap reels will “get the job done” but they most likely not be as smooth, as reliable, and/or as pretty. I buy both “cheap” and expensive reels, depending on what I am using them for. Same goes with rods.
But then again, I am a hyper-consuming gear head. What do I know?
Here’s my question, why can’t I find a cheap version of a Tibor/Abel/Bauer/other cork disc reel? The only ones I’m aware of are the TFO Hayden reels, and even those are in the $350’s. The design of these reels doesn’t seem all that complex. You would think someone could have built these offshore pretty cheap.
Here’s my question, why can’t I find a cheap version of a Tibor/Abel/Bauer/other cork disc reel? The only ones I’m aware of are the TFO Hayden reels, and even those are in the $350’s. The design of these reels doesn’t seem all that complex. You would think someone could have built these offshore pretty cheap.
Isn’t the TFO Hayden made in Asia? I am assuming it is because it doesn’t say on TFO’s site or on the reel that it is made in the USA. On Zach’s podcast with Ted Jurasik he talked about the high cost of good quality cork. I suppose that fact, combined with the fact that people will naturally pay more for a reel with a cork disc drag, means the prices are higher.
Grant
I should have looked at this earlier.
I’ve done a number of “tear downs” on reels ranging from the Okuma to Lamson to Ross to Tibor.
The Redington Brakewater was a cork drag reel made in Korea – a fine reel too, albeit heavy. Their new CD (Cork Drag)L reel is lighter and is a fine reel. I know you can pick those up at a very good price if you shop around. (Not quoting prices here but friends have bought the largest model for under $200 US from the states).
Morsie
Here’s my question, why can’t I find a cheap version of a Tibor/Abel/Bauer/other cork disc reel?
You used to be able to get great ones from Old Florida before they decided to go solely with the Nautilus line.
I went for the “fundamentally different reason” option although i could have just as easily chosen being a slut for a pretty girl or being a gear freak or liking the looks of some of them….
From a trout perspective, even big trout, I don’t want or need a drag, I do want an exposed rim and I’ll take care of that aspect myself, no worries. Never been spooled by a trout, had a couple try and fail. I have had several clients lose fish due to reliance on a drag, messing with it when fighting a fish and not concentrating on what the fish is doing.
In the salt it’s different. I need drag, I need it smooth and strong and I want it reliable. 2 miles offshore is no time for a reel to start pi**ing me off…. The fish i mainly target are hard running powerful fish who’s main motive is to get to structure first and foremost and I need to use maximum rod and drag pressure to beat that first run or i will lose….
In the fresh I was a fan (Still am) of the original Loop’s (Danielsson) because their start up inertia is almost nil and they protected light tippets on BIG fish well.
Having said that I currently have Sage, Danielsson, Lamson, Hardy, Fin-Nor reels in my collection and plan to add a couple of Tibors later this year or early next. Simon Chu said somewhere that reels are more like an heirloom than a rod is and I am inclined to fully agree with him. I have reels that are now out of date technology that i simply will never part with.
You can judge a man by the size of things which annoy him.
Those Albright (now made by Sealevel) Temptest reels are supposed to be nice.
That’s what I have in 10/11.
In the salt it’s different. I need drag, I need it smooth and strong and I want it reliable. 2 miles offshore is no time for a reel to start pi**ing me off…. The fish i mainly target are hard running powerful fish who’s main motive is to get to structure first and foremost and I need to use maximum rod and drag pressure to beat that first run or i will lose….
In the fresh I was a fan (Still am) of the original Loop’s (Danielsson) because their start up inertia is almost nil and they protected light tippets on BIG fish well.
Simon Chu said somewhere that reels are more like an heirloom than a rod is and I am inclined to fully agree with him. I have reels that are now out of date technology that i simply will never part with.
I do agree Simon’s quote “heirloom”! I use them and remember which scar came from which battle or (foolish mistake) 🙂
Clark, I was wondering, have you ever got some amberjack “smoke” your reel? Just curious… And have you use the Loop reel for salt species? Thanks…
Amberjack are not a species we encounter here. The yellowtail Kingfish is a very similar fish and a good one is more than capable of smoking you. I have never had the experience personally. The Kingfish head to the nearest structure usually… if you are fortunate to hook one in an area of clean ground you could possibly be spooled simply because the fish will still endeavor to head for the nearest structure… If that’s mile away that’s where it will try and get. Craig Worthington has had this experience in the far north of the country fishing from shore.
The better reels are needed for the amount of drag you require. I wind them up pretty close to full on the first run because if you don’t stop them before they get to structure you are doomed… you can usually back off a bit after that.
The Danielsson models I have are the original freshwater models and I haven’t used them in the salt at all, it is one of my all time favorite trout reels though.
The Sages and Lamsons are my go to reals in the salt. Neither have ever let me down on big fish.
Clark
You can judge a man by the size of things which annoy him.
The Danielsson models I have are the original freshwater models and I haven’t used them in the salt at all, it is one of my all time favorite trout reels though.
The Sages and Lamsons are my go to reals in the salt. Neither have ever let me down on big fish.
Clark
Thanks a lot, Clark, That is too sweet to have these fish!
It’s also good to know I don’t have to upgrade my lamson to chase them… 😀
I do have a Danielsson original- “Midge” also. I totally agree with you, it is a fun reel to put a trout on…enjoy the palming…Thanks again and looking forward to see your photos!
Mark“‘How does a guy who drives a beat up truck and dresses in rags afford such snazzy tackle?’
‘It should be obvious.'”– John Gierach
Lots of good points here. I’ll only add that I know I can get a replacement spool (or extra spool) for an Abel, without worrying that they have redesigned the reel or changed the finish and no longer support owners of their reels. The same may be true of a select few inexpensive reel designers but for the majority it is not.
This is an interesting discussion. I’ve enjoyed everyone’s replies. I voted “gear freak” because I am. I fish mainly for trout and I’ve always maintained that you do need some type of adjustable and fairly smooth drag if you fish for trout and large (20″ and above) trout are a good possibility. Just a click drag or a coarse uneven drag – and you are just asking for trouble in my opinion.
But I’ve caught trout over 20″ on a pflueger medalist. But for a cheap reel (even the ones made overseas) – the medalist is fairly smooth and adjustable.
But I just like the look of a finely machined reel with a super smooth drag. I have a copper colored Ross Rhythm that I’m really partial to currently. It’s beautiful but also extremely functional. I don’t know if at $220 it qualifies as a high end reel or not. It is the most expensive reel I currently own.
Just my .02
Greg
“‘How does a guy who drives a beat up truck and dresses in rags afford such snazzy tackle?’
‘It should be obvious.'”– John Gierach
Now, that is funny! 😀
“…snobbish is an attitude, no the gear per se …”
– John Gierach-Gentlemen (and I use that word losely!)
The only person I need to justify a new flyreel to is my wife.I had the great privilege of being given a guided tour of the Tibor factory (its on my web site) by Ted himself. The new anodising plant he had installed was 1.5 million dollars, the “waste” water that came out of it was cleaner than Miami’s drinking water. There were 2 X $50,000 engraving machines as well.
Think about how many reels you have to sell to pay for that plant and equipment alone…………
We should be grateful for them. I know this makes me sound like a crusty old bastard but I can remember when the only decent saltwater fly reels were Seamasters (and they never responded to an inquiry) Fin Nors, (dreadful shape), then mercifully the Billy Pates came along, thank you Billy and Ted. There were a few others – Catino for a while, the Feura Taurus and the cheapie was the SA System 2. I am so bloody grateful for the quantity and quality and CHOICE of great reels that’s out there at the moment.
Morsie
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.