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The answer lies in America. In the second half of the Twentieth Century, anglers on both shores of the North American continent began using two-handed rods for their salmon fishing. At first, styles mimicked the Scottish roots: flies were dangled, rods were slow, the cast graceful.


The River Spey (Aerial View)


Over time, American and Canadian pioneers began adapting the newer, lighter, graphite rods to spey use. And with that development, the possibility of a trout spey became a reality.

Technically, the term ‘spey’ is all wrong. Scots will point out that the two-handed style is in use on many rivers, including the Dee, the Tweed, and all over the world. “Spey,” they maintain, is a style of casting, not a type of rod. However, language being what language is, the name stuck, and if you look today you will find “spey” rods, reels, and lines.


The Mouth of the River Tweed

For the purposes of most American trout fishing, no spey rod above a #7 is light enough. The best (and only) trout speys on the market tend to be from a #5 to a #7, 12’ to 14’ long, with a soft tip and a rather traditional action. When choosing a trout spey, look for a rod with the proper length of cork on both upper and lower grips, preferably at least 6” below and 10” above. This will allow you to fit the rod to your grip and will help in finding a reel to balance without breaking the bank on a billfish reel. Balance is crucial in spey casting: be sure your reel is heavy enough and has enough capacity to contain at least a #10 line before attempting to purchase a spey line. For most purposes, Rio’s 5/6 Windcutter is an excellent beginner’s option, which will continue to serve just fine as you progress.




The Author on the Banks of the Clinch


Casting a spey rod is a wonderful, eye-opening experience. However, it is not something you can pick up in one session, even for a talented one-handed caster. Purchase Simon Gawesworth’s new book, “Spey Casting,” or watch one of the Rio International Spey fishing videos. For the purposes of trout fishing, where one generally can wade, a combination of standard overhead casts, roll casts, and switch casts will do the trick, although the snake roll is a cast every angler should possess the ability to do.

A spey rod, even a light trout spey, is substantially more powerful than a one handed rod of like weight. Surprisingly, spey rods will protect tippet as light as 6x, although it is more important that fly size be correctly matched to tippet size with a spey rod due to the torque and power of the fly coming off the water. Where you might have gotten away with a #6 wooly on 6x tippet for one handed fishing, count on losing some flies with the spey if you mismatch.

Assuming a 13’ 5/6/7 weight spey, a word about line selection and leaders. First, spey lines have only recently reached industry standardization. European makers like Hardy have traditionally adhered to the old AFTMA standards, which are measured off the front 30’ of line. Hardy’s Mach I, accordingly, is rated an 8/9 even though it is an appropriate match for a 5/6 trout spey. American makers like Rio do a better job of matching line to rod weight, but appearances can still be deceptive. Match the line to the job you want it to do. A 6/7 Midspey, Rio’s middle length spey line, is a poor overhead casting line, even for a powerful caster, because it is intended for traditional spey casts. The Midspey head weighs as much as some billfish lines, and overhead casting all of it can (and, I learned, will) snap a light trout spey. Pay attention to the grain weights of a line and compare around before buying. For most purposes, the 5/6 Windcutter is a good place to start. Don’t worry about buying the tips kit for trout fishing, a floating line is sufficient.


The leader should be at least the length of the rod. For my 13’ rod, I typically choose a 12’ 5x leader, and I add 3’ of 6x fluorocarbon tippet. For nymphing fluorocarbon tippet is a good choice – it has a higher specific density than monofilament and will sink faster, keeping your leader from bowing as much in the water column. Strike indicators are a necessity. Choose an indicator that does not rely on being dry to float. Yarn is a poor choice, because so many of the spey casts leave the line on the water, dragging it through the film, and yarn will swamp. Palsa foam floats work for a few casts, but eventually they torque off the leader under the strain of spey fishing. I choose to use snap-on or toothpick indicators. On most trout waters appropriate for spey fishing, a larger indicator is just fine.

The current rod and reel market for trout speys is surprisingly slim. Sage makes a 12’ 5 weight in their traditional series, and it is probably the top of the market, but you will pay for it. For people used to one handed prices, spey equipment can carry some serious sticker shock. A $750 spey rod, with a $500 reel of appropriate size, and a $75 spey line can add up. Other options are available, however. A Japanese company called CND owned by former Daiwa-UK rod designer Nobuo Nodera makes excellent, cheaper speys. Their Expert series 13’ 6/7 throws a 5/6 Windcutter nicely and sports appropriate cork, a decent reel seat, especially nice internal ferrules, and quality wraps. CND emphasizes cork, blank, and ferrules more than most companies. A jewelry-bedecked trout spey does not currently exist. Another option is Temple Fork Outfitters rods. TFO offers a 12’6” 6 weight which will handle the Windcutter 5/6, but this rod is lighter and faster than the CND. If you intend to try a lot of nighttime overhead casting, or boat angling, the TFO would be a good choice. Both the CND and the TFO are under $300. Most reels capable of holding a #10 WF line are appropriate for trout speys. Ross’s Canyon Big Game 4 will hold a Windcutter 5/6, as will Redington’s Brakewater and Teton’s big game offerings. Because this is, after all, a trout reel, a killer drag is not required.


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