Studio lighting question
- This topic has 19 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated Dec 12, 2008 at 3:22 pm by
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I am looking at this lighting kit from Calumet photo to start off with.
www.mattjonesphotography.com
I have done a little bit of studio work and i bought a set of lights from alien bees a couple years ago.
At first, I will just be shooting smaller objects at a pretty close range.
www.mattjonesphotography.com
Hi Matt
I have just gone through all of this myself ….
The Genesis are quite good I hear but I went for the Elinchrom DL4’s (kit) …they are very consistent and a very good lighting system…….The Genisis are raved at prophotolife.com . What ever way you go start with the 400’s + you can dial down but not up …my 400’s dont go over 1/4 power that often ….
or you could get some speedlights and strobe it
Umbrellas are a good place to start with lighting, they’re very forgiving.
Use the silver for shooting things like flies to give them some edge and white for people stuff for soft transition to shadows.
You can experiment with distance and angle though to the side and slightly higher then the subject is a good place to start.
If you get lights that aren’t very powerful a small softbox that can be placed close to the subject is best – anything large needs lights with grunt to work well.
(under 2 feet a side)I use Elinchrom’s now and I’m very happy.
Not sure how much the kits are in the US, but here they cost a bit more then the unknown brands or cheap chinese stuff, but cost less then things like Broncolor or Profoto and having owned all three over the years I can’t see much difference in quality of light.
Elichrom also make the best softboxes IMHO.
www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
David , you always have the good stuff. I am jealous!
I did not keep track of this field for awhile, but I think Elinchrom probably is still in the leading field. lot’s elegant functions and great design. I know many pros use them, I have test one in a photo show and really love it. Their price are about twice more expensive.Matt, for answer your question one. It depends on what kind of light you have. If you have a very cheap one, you need to use the syn-cord (or some may allow you to attach with remote control and server) or use a small flash to trig the major light. I had a super cheap one back when I was in college (ET light) . They still have light sensor in the front. I just use a tiny flash to trigger the major light.
Now I use a better one… I just buy a remote control and attached it to my camera’s hot shoe. Then it works very well. I am using this one from http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOTO-DIGITAL-LIGHTING-STUDIO-STROBE-FLASH-KIT-1FY6004_W0QQitemZ360011401407QQihZ023QQcategoryZ30087QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262Amona
They are 600 wt, the softbox is great for the price I got. I mainly shot friends, kids, and flies with shooting table. I am not sure what object you will be shooting. But 600wt for people is about right. They give you a little bit distance to test different angles.Umbrella is good, but if you are targeting people, as David mentioned the softbox give you better results, plue the model’s eyes will have great reflections.
A lot of the best big softboxes, like the elinchrom Octalight as an example, are really just big umbrellas with a diffusion cover or two.
A friend of mine used to use one old Bowens 1000 mono block and a big white umbrella for all his magazine work.
(people stuff)
It was just a question of him finding the best working distance for the umbrella and sticking with it.
I think the brolly is from lastolite.His pictures are great and prove that you don’t need to spend a lot of money on lighting to get published and also that second hand gear is worth a look..
www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
I shoot both Profoto monos and pack powered. They have worked great for years now, and are crazy expensive. That said, by no means do you want to plug a modern DSLR directly into a synch cord and to a power pack or monolight. There are many ways to trigger your lights and none of them are free, or as cheap as a synch cord. The flip side – hook a DLSR to a synch cord and fry your DSLR. Everyone I know in the business triggers with Pocket Wizards. They have great range and now are made as transceiver meaning they can both transmit and receive trigger signal. The option of triggering via slave is a good one (as recommended), but less reliable.
As expensive as Profoto is, I imagine anything with the “Elinchrom” name cost even more – top shelf all the way.
Alien Bees have been around for years, have a good pedigree and spectacular warranty / service history. Very reasonably priced too.
Now in house brands like Calumet … these are a maximum profit for Calumet. Calumet does not make these, they put their name on them, so who does actually make them? It could be good, and it could be bad. Having to even ask that question should give one pause.
As far as constant light sources – like for video? If yes, you have to remember heads have fans in them and that means noise. If you are wanting to shoot stills with a constant light source, why have strobes? They (strobes) are expensive and pretty weak when just shooting with the modeling light.
I use everything from a ring light to 4’x6′ softboxes depending on circumstances. What you will probably find as you start down this path is you will eventually want them all – umbrellas, softboxes, snoots, grid spots, barndoors … heck it sounds just like fly fishing but more expensive! You can tell, by how everyone’s list grows, lights are only the beginning.
shannonShannon, Elinchrom is cheaper then Profoto here in Australia by about 30 % (ish) and at least half of what Broncolor stuff costs.. 😮
When I was looking at getting new lights I asked around at a couple of the big studio hire places and they both said Profoto gear is very tough & reliable, and Broncolor is the best lighting.
I found both brands had great gear and gave me years of good service , but having a kit of each was getting to be a pain with using Brons infra red triggers and pocket Wizards for the Profoto’sRecently I switched everything to Elichrom, they won me over for being good value and having really good light shaping accessories, as a bonus the distributor here (Kayell) is a really good company and great to deal with compared to the people that do Profoto.
I should have added to my first post that when it comes to triggering lights a couple of sync leads is great and more than good enough for most uses, the Skyports, pocket Wizards and USB triggering is all good as well, but can be a pain and costs plenty of money.
I use the Skyports, but always have a sync lead hanging off every pack just in case..www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
So all in all, sync chords, lights, boxes, remotes, what have you; I’m looking to spend at least $600?
www.mattjonesphotography.com
Matt, with that kind of budget you could get a second hand monobloc from Profoto, Bron or Elinchrom and a large umbrella and maybe even a white/silver reflector.
With that kit you could shoot a lot of stuff from people to product.
400-600 Watt Seconds power is a good starting range, though 1000 will give you some more grunt.
A couple of sync leads will be more then enough.
www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
I have a Genesis 200 w/ softbox and like it quite a bit. It uses an Elinchrom mount for the adapter ring, so you’ll be able to outfit it with a lot of accessories. It has plenty of power for small objects and is more than enough for in studio use. I have yet to use it at full power, even on full body portraits. They have a built in optical slave, and I’ve only had a few mis-fires out of hundreds of shots (literally close to a thousand photos over the course of a few weeks). So you only need the supplied sync chord going to one monoblock and the other will fire from the slave. The modeling lamp isn’t very bright and the replacement bulbs can be pretty pricey, but there are 3rd party bulbs on the market that you can get if you need to.
I’m looking at picking up the two light kit myself for use when shooting full band promo shots. The sunpak 383’s just arent enough when wanting to shoot around f11.
Here are a few shots to show results big and small.
http://society6.com/grainfarmer Fly Fishing and Landscape open edition Photography prints.
http://grainfarmer.vsco.co/ iPhone photos
http://instagram.com/chad_simcox InstagramI actually have no idea the US cost comparison between Elinchrom and Profoto. Elinchrom certainly has a superior reputation for quality and quality of light. Sounds like Elinchrom has a distinct advantage over Profoto. Virtually all Profoto power sources can be purchased with built in receiver, but the added cost isn’t worth it in my opinion.
Now, what are Skyports?
Marvelous images Chad! I gave up the band scene (for profit) a long time ago – they seem to be the only people with less money than photographers.
ShannonI gave up the band scene (for profit) a long time ago – they seem to be the only people with less money than photographers.
ShannonIt depends on the level of artist you’re working with for sure! I’m shooting musicians through work so I don’t get paid extra, but it’s the highlight of my week and I get to build a nice portfolio.
http://society6.com/grainfarmer Fly Fishing and Landscape open edition Photography prints.
http://grainfarmer.vsco.co/ iPhone photos
http://instagram.com/chad_simcox InstagramI gave up the band scene (for profit) a long time ago – they seem to be the only people with less money than photographers.
I gave up the ‘for profit’ part of music photography as well, though still try to make a living at it.. ;D
It’s still fun and there’s a little money around so I wont complain.(much ;))..Shanon, ‘Skyports’ are Elinchroms version of the Pocket Wizard, though IMHO havng used both, the Skyports are a lot better – for one they cost much less and you can raise and lower the power on the pack from the camera.
They’re also very compact and the kit comes with two receivers and a transmitter and a real nice little hard case.
(I got two kits here for the price of 1 pocket Wizard set)Nice shots Chad, I also like the knife shot, the highlights are very well done.
Your band shot is also cool for it’s simplicity and feel – something missing in a lot of what’s around in the magazines.www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
A lot of the best big softboxes, like the elinchrom Octalight as an example, are really just big umbrellas with a diffusion cover or two.
The concept of umbrellas and softboxes are totally different. If you mean the structure of the “backside” of the softboxes resembling umbrellas that might be true. However, if you mean the effect are similar… that’s misleading. IMHO.
I have a Genesis 200 w/ softbox and like it quite a bit. It uses an Elinchrom mount for the adapter ring, so you’ll be able to outfit it with a lot of accessories. It has plenty of power for small objects and is more than enough for in studio use. I have yet to use it at full power, even on full body portraits. They have a built in optical slave, and I’ve only had a few mis-fires out of hundreds of shots (literally close to a thousand photos over the course of a few weeks). So you only need the supplied sync chord going to one monoblock and the other will fire from the slave. The modeling lamp isn’t very bright and the replacement bulbs can be pretty pricey, but there are 3rd party bulbs on the market that you can get if you need to.
I’m looking at picking up the two light kit myself for use when shooting full band promo shots. The sunpak 383’s just arent enough when wanting to shoot around f11.
Here are a few shots to show results big and small.
I love this band shot, I think the photo capture the feel. The fly shot is pretty unique also.
A lot of the best big softboxes, like the elinchrom Octalight as an example, are really just big umbrellas with a diffusion cover or two.
The concept of umbrellas and softboxes are totally different. If you mean the structure of the “backside” of the softboxes resembling umbrellas that might be true. However, if you mean the effect are similar… that’s misleading. IMHO. Â Diffusion distance and size of the diffusion can form a lot of variations that unbrellas never can achieve. Well, this is just my personal opinions. Â
You’re right, I was being over simple, but big softboxes like the Octalight where the flash fires backwards into the umbrella then out through a diffuser have the same wrap-around look of large umbrellas and give softer gradations from highlights to shadow than traditional soft boxes where the flash fires out through a layer or two of diffusion.
Personally I like big lights like the Octa or Recta lights for main lighting and regular softboxes for hair lights or product stuff.
The point I was making is that you can get some great lighting with the humble white umbrella if you don’t have the money for softboxes.
Here’s a shot done with the Octa up close.
www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
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