Reels
- This topic has 61 replies, 25 voices, and was last updated Jan 22, 2007 at 3:39 pm by
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I was under the impression that the drag system in the Tibor lights were considered caliper drags. I thought they were cork as well…?
From the Tibor site:
The Drag Brake Caliper works like the brakes in your car. The caliper contacst the drum, producing a smooth drag wihile preventing overrunns with broken tippets.
The Drag Adjustment Block prevents over-tightening.
Clutch Pins convert the reel from left to right hand retrieve in seconds.
Teflon® Coated Brake Drum features grooves to dissipate heat nd moisture and prevent overheating.
Drag Adjustment Nut is more accessible than on most reels and can not catch the line.No intellectual leap needed. I understand exactly what you are saying, the point you are making and how things are working. Two surfaces are drawn together by a bolt and nut to create friction. Absolutely the same principal in all in line disk drags. I do not dispute that. It is not so abstract as to be above my intellectual leaping abilities.
Zach, you are saying that it all breaks down to a common principal. I have no doubt that everyone you talked to confirmed that. No dispute. I am sayng that when getting specific the term “draw bar” is reserved for Abel and clones. I have been a reel junkie for a dozen years and have never, ever, heard anyone else call a drum drag a “draw bar”. It might have something you could call a draw bar, but it is not a “draw bar”. The manufacturers don’t call them “draw bar” because they are not draw bar in the specific sense that the term is commonly used. They may be draw bar, but they are not “draw bar”.
I found an article I was looking to reference and just found it buried in my docs. Here is the original link to Blanton’s board.
http://www.danblanton.com/dragsyou.html
Doesn’t Cameron have a Tibor Light?
This shows the drag system in a little greater detail, including the spring you’re referring to that prevents the caliper from being jammed against the “brake drum”
1) First, what type of reels do you use for most of your fishing? The best way to characterize these is by drag type, so available answers are click-and-pawl, gear-driven-disc, and draw-bar disc? As a sub-question, do you think you have a good grasp of what those terms mean (subjectively)?
2) Second, what price range are most of your reels in? My sources are telling me the major market component is the $100-$150 class, with only a relative handful of reels being sold that are more expensive than that.
3) Do you try to keep a particular pound test drag setting, or do you simply set the drag where it “feels right?” Have you ever broken off a fish due to having it come tight against a reel that was set too tight?
4) Do you find yourself drawn to the more creative reel designs like the Lamson/Waterworks and Nautilus reels, or are you more likely to spend money on a more traditional Orvis Battenkill/Abel/Tibor?
5) How often do you ding your reels and how important is it to you that they remain un-dinged? Several new reels are using an anodization process called “hard anodizing” or Type III that makes a much tougher surface on the reel than the old Type II, which was closer to paint. Would you pay a premium for the harder coating? What if it meant you could only have shades of gray or black?
6) Last, based on your subjective knowledge of the market, which is better: cork or synthetic?
1. Most of my reels are clickers. Spring Creeks to Spey.
2. I am at the upper end, $300 – $800.00.
3. I set all of reels just heavy enough so that they do not overrun.
4. Mainly Hardy’s and Tibor Lights.
5. Dings are the “patina” of the fly fishing reel. 😎 Hard anodization is a benefit, but not one that I would switch reels for.
6. I think that the real issue is sealed vs. non-sealed.
– David
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