I’m having a ball
- This topic has 10 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated Jan 8, 2008 at 8:03 am by
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with the Sigma 400mm APO lens! Man, this is like hunting and fishing all tied into one. I’ve been spending time getting bird shots with it this week and that’s a different monster all together. A tripod is a must with this lens and while the head I’m using (Bogen 3055) isn’t the fastest, once you get used to it, it works pretty good. I’m satisfied with its performance so far.
I scanned thru the net for some long lens pointers on technique and I’m trying to use what I’ve learned like left hand on the lens to dampen vibration etc. I do have a few questions about grip however. How firm do you grip the camera with your right hand. My grip on the camera body seems to be the source of most of the vibration. Does anyone use a remote for wildlife shooting?
Focus on this lens is on the slow side but the glass seems pretty decent. Its only one stop slower then the Minolta “G” lens. What I’ve found playing around with the birds is that AF is almost useless when there are lots of branches in the fore/background and manual is 100% faster. Is that the case with higher end lenses as well? I’ll have to really work at seeing sharpness thru the viewfinder (any tips?).
Anyway I just wanted to ask a few questions and say thanks to all the great talent on this board. You guys have been a lot of help and inspiration and I really appreciate it.
Welcome to the dark side.
Once you get used to shooting with a long lens you should find that a tripod isn’t a must with a 400, but that like most things it can be an aid. Im comfortable handholding mine, and would even hand hold a 500mm despite the extra length and weight…but not for longperiods. Keep in mind that the general rule of thumb for the average person 1/focal length. So with practise a day should come when you can get crisp shots at about and around 1/400th. As for grip, again I think in time and with practise you’ll find that just comes.
One product you mightwant to look at if long lens wildlife shooting really gets a hold of you is a Bushhawk. This is mine with my 400 mounted. The red button take the place of your bodies shutter realse both for releasing the shutter and focus acquisition.
In my opinion its a godsend. It makes tracking flying birds and moving wildlife considerably more intuitive/easier and for those occassions where shutter speed/focal length are an issue its pretty darned good t as a support mechanism.
1/50th at 400mm
But most importantly practise, practise, practise.
With regards to AF grabbing twigs or other elements one thing you should do if your not already is switch to center point focus only. After that different lenses and different AF systems react differently both with regards to grabbing and maintaining focus or losing focus and grabbing back gorud elements in te case of tracking flying birds. Keeping center point on target isnt easy with longer lenses and fast moving targets, especially when theres twigs, brush and grass to contend with.
Run Forest Run courtesy of the Harris above 🙂
Lastly, getting at wildlife is alot like hunting/fishing. Leaning the targets habits, habitat and how to find/get close all go hand in hand. Its a blast an extremely addicting 🙂
John I could look at your photos all day long!!!! If it is not your real job it should be cuz your good!
Joel
John I could look at your photos all day long!!!! If it is not your real job it should be cuz your good!
Joel
amen
Thanks guys although I do really just think its a matter of practise and no inherant ability. Since taking this up I can mark and see improvements each month, whether its improvement with capturing the image or improvement in processing techniques. You should see my images from first year 🙂 and I still think I have a long way to go.
Awesome!
Thanks again for the advice. What lens did you use for those shots?
I’m looking at an 80-200mm 2.8 G lens and was wondering if I paired that lens with a 1.4 TC if it could pretty much “do it all”? The reviews I read said the 1.4 TC had little to no effect on IQ. Seems this would be the best setup for on the go shooting. Am I off in my thinking?
Thanks guys although I do really just think its a matter of practise and no inherant ability. Since taking this up I can mark and see improvements each month, whether its improvement with capturing the image or improvement in processing techniques. You should see my images from first year 🙂 and I still think I have a long way to go.
John…as always your photos are amazing. Like Joel said, I could look all day. I find myself logging into IA just to go back and look at some of your old posts.
I use Canons 400f5.6 L
As for TCs its hard to say.
At one time I used Canons 100-400L and would on occasion mount a 1.4 TC. I was occasionaly happy with the results. I guess it depends on what you want the image for. If I saw an Eagle in the distance and needed the reach Id be happy with what ever the result was. If I saw a Hawk at moderate distance and put the TC on hoping for a frame filler rather than accepting the reach limitation of the bare lens and the shots we’re so-so I might be dissapointed. Even with my 400 there are times when I debate putting the TC on. If for no other reason aside from possible IQ loss they cut your light by a full stop which has a direct impact on your SS and for wildlife shooting I dont know if anything is more important than keeping your SS high enough.That said, a guide that Im going out soon with has a 70-200 and is thinking about picking up a 1.4tc. I happened to be at his shop with my gear and let him try his lens with my Canon 1.4 tc and I think it sold him on picking one up. Bottom line is, sometimes you cant have enough reach and wildlife are rarely accomodating. If the extra reach puts a smile on your face than its worth it. Although it has to be said that I ‘think” when discussing TCs they are better paired with primes than zooms.
J
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