How to build a treehouse
- This topic has 12 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated Apr 27, 2010 at 7:32 pm by
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Couldn’t figure out where this guy was at. I could hear him pecking but couldn’t pinpoint the sound. Then the wood chips hit me on the head.. ;D Can anyone name that bird?
Hey thanks for that info Scott I’ve always wondered what the yallarhammer name was all about. Now it makes sense.
Yep, Northern Flicker.
Very skittish, very tough to get good images of. This time of year they are nesting and so it’s easier. If you can locate a nest, their tolerance level is less and so you can get images. I just got some good shots th other day of the male at work.
I was really waiting for the female to come in so I could get one in flight, a shot that’s eluded me for 4 years, despite alot of effort 🙂
Their underwings are a golden yellow and the only time you can really see it, is when they are flying.Beuatiful bird.
I have a front seat at the front door of this couple. Went again today but I was cut short when both my spare batteries were dead! Note to self, move charger away from where wife can inadvertently unplug it and always verify the LED is solid before removing battery…. We had solid cloud cover and very soft light today. Would have been a high ISO shoot but the animals were in rare form..
As I walked away the Male Mallards were all lined up overhead doing touch and go landings as is they were auditioning for a Top Gun movie. I just shook my head and walked back to the car.Here are a few I did get before it died. Nothing spectacular but I was wanting to experimant using TV mode and auto ISO. I set the SS at 1/1250 and the ISO worked out to about 1000 to 1250. Noise isn’t that bad unless you want to crop.. What do you all think is the lowest SS to catch BIF?
Lowest for Bif?
No real answer to that. In part because the SS you need to freeze anything that’s in motion is dependant on both speed of subject, size of subject and distance to subject. So obviously the faster the bird, the higher your SS needs to be. Some birds are bullits, some aren’t.
So you can gt away with slower speeds on larger, slower birds than you can faster/smaller. Hand in hand with that, is distance you subject.
1/500th may freeze a fast mover at moderate distance enough for a keeper. Same SS, same bird, but at close range. It will be soft.Whenyour practised enough you can shoot birds at slower speeds. Bascially your “panning”.
1/200th with the 400mm
As a general rule if I’m looking for BiF I like 1/1000th and better.
Semi auto modes. Av and TV.
Both have their merits, both have their pitfalls. I really don’t like the pitfalls associated with TV, namely I dont want the camera mucking about with my aperature which affects my DoF.Dotn get me wrong, both can trip up and screw an image up.
Its what happens when they “work” but dont.In the case of TV if theres too much light it stops down..increasing DoF.
In the case of AV when theres too much light it increases SS. The shot looks the same whether its taken at say 1/1000th or 1/3000 (most of the time), thats not the case with a shot at f5.6 vs F11.
I always want to control DoF.
Another problem with semi auto modes, you can test this in your back yard on a day when there is consistant light. Say for example a nice sunny day, but a foggy day will work just as well.
Set your body to av or tv any metering mode. Look through the viewfinder and watch your SS or f/stop (which ever the camera is controlling) as you swing the lens around. What happens when it goes from pointing above the horizon with alot of sky in the frame, to under the horizon with less sky in the frame. The element that the camera is controlling changes….quite a bit.
Why? Meaning why would you want it to? The light falling on your subject isnt or hasnt changed. Your expsosure should be the same regardless if the BG is bright or dark.
Typically when you are shooting wildlife or subjects, you want to expose for the subject. Also, in this vein if your in spot metering (which I use a fair bit) and you slip slightly off the target.. Say from a black bird to a blue sky…if your in a semi auto mode whats going to happen to your exposure?
A whole bunch of light is going to be registered, the body will stop down or ramp up SS and your black bird is grossly under exposed. Conversley what if your metering for the whites on a bird and it slips off just a bit to something darker (water, bg, dark feathers)…Well your camera is to adjust by opening the lens or reducing SS.
blowing the lights to hell and back.
/deletefar cry from the earlier pic where I blew the breast a bit vs exposing for *it* this time. yeah the waters a little underexposes as are the blacks but this image is about as perfectly exposed as you can get. Lots of detail in both the lights and darks.
the only time I use AV is when light is very inconsistant..say the kind of day when the suns constantly in/out from
As usual John great info. You have a knack for both the art of photography and helping others perfect it. Thanks!
I don’t use the semi auto modes that often either but yesterday I was just trying to see what the camera would do with that shutter speed and what the higher ISO’s would look like. I pretty much knew it wouldn’t budge from 5.6 and all it could adjust was the ISO. I’m still
I almost got him. I Took these with the Sigma 70-200 ex dg. It’s not an L lens but it isn’t that bad until I can get one. The image difference between 1 and 2 is flash.
Looks better bigger
http://www.trophyfishingtn.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=60
Almost…
I was out during the storms seeing how the birds were dealing with the weather. I found the Flicker at home and he even gave me a decent shot as he left the house. He had no idea how lucky he was for leaving when he did. I was watching the tree waiting for him to return when a gust of wind hit and broke his tree right where he had made a hole. Had he been in the hole he wouldn’t have made it. I don’t know if it had any young or not. I’ll go back soon and see what becomes of this guy.
This is what is left of his home…
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