Hey Neal, does this one look a bit better?
- This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated May 25, 2009 at 7:34 pm by
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OK, this is way better. Same fly, same camera settings, but I swapped out the white background for a black one. I think that really made it pop. You can see the olive wire, as well as some of the olive highlights from the dyed Pheasant Tail I used. Plus the peacock stands out better.
Y’all have created a monster.
WOW Abe! That is a huge improvement. Less than 12 hours and you have mastered in-camera white balance. You just need to know where to look – it’s all in the User Manual, but putting it together is another story. These shots are much better and you didn’t need fancy flash and expensive gear. As you know, I am big fan of the point-and-shoot cameras and your examples are proof positive that they can take fantastic macro pictures of flies. I’m laughing out loud when I see a size 22 midge in frame with correct white balance out of a Pentax W60.
Have you read my tutorial on getting started with point-and-shoot? Check it out here http://flyartstudio.com/wordpress/?p=187. Lot’s of additional tricks on how to get light on the front of the fly to open up the shadows and mid-tones.
Are you using a Gorilla Tripod yet? If not, go buy one. Also, are you using the timer delay shutter release? Your pictures still have a slight amount of camera shake and that can be negated by using the tripod and delay release.
Strong work. I can tell you are having fun.
***Check out Abe’s previous post*** http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?num=1242779982.
One last teaching point. If you move the background further away from your fly (4 to 6 feet actually) and use a white sheet of paper to reflect “bounce” light back on the front of the fly you will open up the shadows and brighten up the fly without getting light contamination on the background. This is a deadly trick for doing macro fly photography.
It would look something like this.
Original
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