Camera Help
- This topic has 10 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated Jan 9, 2011 at 10:17 pm by
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Hi Brian, this can be very frustrating! Please post a few samples here of what you’re talking about, otherwise it’ll be hard to discern what issues are causing the problem.
Cheers,
db
Doug,
Thanks for the reply. Attached should be an image of my wife and one of my daughters taken the other day. Both are in relatively the same focal plane, yet neither are in focus, though the focus point selector was on my daughter’s nose.
Jarrod,
Thanks for the comment. I knew about the micro adjust feature, but figuring out how to make it work was where I had problems. I was able to find a website (google is your friend), which described a procedure for testing lenses and then adjusting them. Following the procedure there I found the lens seems to have a significant back focus issue (I had to adjust it to forward 15). So now I need to take some test shots and see if the issues is if not resolved helped.
Brian
The Procedure can be found here:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.htmlI bought a tripod and it pretty much solved the soft image issues. It’s actually hard for me to get real steady when standing. When hand holding it’s best to try and lean on something to help steady yourself and the camera. Most soft images IMO are due to camera shake. It’s hard to get tack sharp images when hand holding, not impossible though. Another trick I learned is to shoot in burst mode if you are hand holding the camera. In burst mode you will likely get some sharp images and some not so sharp, the method works for me.
Posting another one ofmy other daughter. Used the center focus point on her face (not 100% sure where).
It’s hard to tell from such a small photo, but it looks like the fleece on her jacket is in focus. So maybe you’re focused a bit too deep. Which would make sense if you had some back focus issues.
Just a tip, try to make sure you’re shooting with a 1/90 shutter speed or faster if you’re hand holding your camera. That will reduce the chance for motion blur. It has a different look than being out of focus, but will contribute to an overall softness of a photo.
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http://instagram.com/chad_simcox InstagramRule of thumb for handlholding for the average person.
1/focal length or better.So if your shooting at 100mm, you want to be at 1/100th or faster. Keep in mind IS/VR changes that by 1 or more stops depending on the lens and version of IS.
It is not your body but the aperture limitations of your lens unless you are shooting in very good light. Soft pictures are due to inadequate shutter speeds. Unless you are shooting in very good lighting always crank up your ISO setting and then go buy a cheap prime lens like the 50mm 1.8 and learn how to shoot in aperture priority mode. Not knocking the 28-135mm but get a lens that lets you shoot in the f1.8 – 2.8 range and I would say your 28-135mm will start gathering dust. The only problem is that the cheap 50mm 1.8 will expose you to what good optics can do and then your addiction to good glass will most likely begin. It can become a very very expensive hobby in a hurry.
And yes the rule of thumb is 1/focal length but when you are shooting a crop factor body like the 50D you have to factor in 1.6 x your focal length. So if I was shooting a Canon 50D at 100mm I would want a minimum shutter speed of somewhere in the 1/150th or 160th of a second.
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