Buffalo River – Early Spring(?) Trip Report (no fish but lots of fun)
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This past weekend my son and I were joined by some friends to do a training hike on the Buffalo River Trail. We are preparing for a backcountry trip in the San Juan Mountains near Durango, CO in June of this year. The forecasted temps for NW Arkansas were close to what we’ll likely experience in Colorado in June at elevations above 11,000 feet so we headed south to Arkansas. During the 3 days out we’d hoped to squeeze in some early spring smallmouth fishing on the Buffalo. When we hit the trail the weather was 70F with sunny skies:
Spring had not quite reached NW Arkansas so the views of the bluffs were still good:
A few orchids (?) were blooming:
The river was running clear but was still quite cold:
We found an off trail campsite near a nice hole:
The previous occupants (apparently bushcraft experts) had prepped the site nicely for us:
We planned for a more simplistic approach sleeping under tarps:
The log chairs made for a nice place to sit and enjoy a fire:
A storm front had moved in and the fishing was off. The next morning, no matter what patterns we tossed in the river, what depth we fished, or how fast/slow the retrieve the smallmouth weren’t interested in biting. We decided to hike up to Hemmed-in-hollow falls (209′) and stretch our legs a bit:
Before our hike to the falls we found a bluff area upstream 1/4 mile from our first nights campsite and decided it would be welcomed protection from the incoming storm.
We set up camp under some overhangs, dried out our gear while the afternoon storm continued on.
Protection from the elements made watching the afternoon showers enjoyable, despite the cool 40 degree weather. The boys occupied themselves by tending a campfire and exploring the bluffs.
Overnight the steady rain turned to snow as the temps dropped to 30F:
On the hike in we descended 1200 feet from the trailhead to the river with ease. However, the hike out was complicated by the substantial snow accumulation. At the river we received about 3 to 4 inches of snow. As we ascended the trail back to the trailhead the snow continued and seemed to deepen by an inch or two per hour. The last section of the trail we hiked in 10 to 12 inches of snow (unbelievable for an Arkansas spring day). We lost track of the trail several times but fortunately were able to consult our GPS tracks from our hike in.
By the time we reached our vehicle at the trailhead a good foot of snow had accumulated in the NW Arkansas mountains and visibility was significantly reduced due to high winds / spindrift. During the hike out the boys joked about feeling like they were summiting Everest with the steep climb out and blizzard-like conditions.
Even though the fishing was off, we still had a blast on the trip and the boys learned a lot about backpacking in the snow. Its a beautiful area so we’ve decided to return with fly rods in hand later this year. Perhaps we’ll float the Buffalo with kayaks in hopes of hitting more water than we can on foot.
Zach – “canoe hatch” <- funny stuff :) We didn’t have time to go caving but its on the must do list. We also didn’t see any elk. I assume that they stay around the Lost Valley area? The most excitement was having a tree fall near our campsite in the middle of the night. I’m glad the water was at least running at the falls. I bet this week its really going.
For our return trip, what fly patterns should we tie for smallmouth later this year? Should we pound the banks with empty little cans of natural light with stinger hooks behind them? Perhaps this would match the canoe hatch?
Sweet report and great pics!
Brings back memories. I spent the summer of ’94 camping out at Kyle’s Landing as a guide for Kanakuk Camps. We would take kids into the outdoors through rock climbing, caving, and canoeing – if the water was high enough. That summer the water was so low, we only did a couple of canoe trips (which were more like 13 mile portages :D).
Did a fair amount of caving up near Ponca (not sure if the cave has a name but was pretty well known and hosts a cool place called “The Museum”. Takes about a 60′ rapel or rope ladder to get into the lower levels.
I also remember a 200′ free hanging rapell (outside) that we took the highschool age kids on that is not a far hike upstream from Kyle’s Landing. We would take the groups rock climbing on the cliffs below a scenic bluff/overlook that was across the river and about a 3 mile hike uphill from Kyle’s.
On days off we would go into Jasper to eat. A really amazing summer.
Too bad I wasn’t into fly fishing back then, or I would have been fishing every day after dinner! As it was, me and a few fellow buds would go rock climbing every evening after dinner.
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