12-24mm DX f/4 + Nikon 77mm Circ-Pol II
- This topic has 16 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated May 27, 2008 at 11:42 am by
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I can’t wait to see the photos! I’m looking at the Tokina 12-24mm….wish I could justify the cost of the Nikon. I plan to purchase the nikon 80-400mm for this summer’s Yellowstone backpacking trip so my lens
When I was a Nikon guy, I owned the Nikon 12-24 and I believed it was a flawed lens (at least my copy) If you don’t shoot into the sun often, or use back lighting, or use it at the widest focal length stopped down, its a decent lens. The Tokina 12-24 is the best buy in that class. Its sharper, has a solid quality feel to it that the Nikon does not have, handles flare better and its cheaper.
Zach, the Nikon polarizer is the best one made, hands down.
Zach,
Did your lens arrive in time for your trip? If so….please….please….please….post some photos 🙂 I’m in the market for a 12-24 and specifically want to see some grip and grin shots with that lens. Thanks!
Here’s one from 12-24 that FFSW used as double truck (well, if I attached it correctly).
OK, trying again.
Well…….if things go as planned…..I should have a Tokina 12-24mm in my grubby little hands this Thursday. I plan to give it a workout on the trip to Katmai this summer. I’m looking for a decent low profile circular polarizer that won’t break the bank. Can one be had for under 100 bones? I know that eliminates the Nikon and Hoya….Tiffen or B&W maybe?
I’m thinking of foregoing a UV filter for this lens simply to avoid vignetting issues.
Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
I dont know Drifter. There are so many makes of filters its hard to keep them straight.
Hoya: You can spend from 75 to $225.00, ditto B+W. Depnds largely on whether or its multi coated and whether or not its “thin”. Thins cool but I dont like the way the caps keep falling off, especially when its 200.00 or more filter. Having a cap come off in the bag and scratching the filter would blow.Singh-Ray: they start around 200 and go upto 400 or so.
Is it worth that much for CPs?
hard to say imo, I guess ultimately it depends on how much you use and abuse them and what your using them for..Personal enjoyment or regular cover shots.Single coated Hoyas and B+Ws can be had for about 75.00 retail. perhaps te largest determinent of the cost to you will be your filter size. All else being equal a 77mm CP as in for my 24-70 f2.8 is alot more expensive tan the same filter for 58mm and 62mm lenses.
J
You basically get what you pay for. Â While the optical quality of the glass might be close, or even equal, often the mount isn’t. Â So go with quality, typically the mfgr, Hoya, B&W, etc. Â And do get the slim mount.
Well, check the Tokina lens hood. Â If, like on the Nikon 12-24, the hood mounts on the lens body and not on the front lens/filter threads, you’re good to go. Â If hood mounts on threads, well, typically there are none on the slim mounts.
Same on UV filters, particularly if you intend to mount one more/less permanently for protection. Â You want the best, since every layer of glass potentially degrades the image. Â But then, so does a big scratch on the front element. Â I generally use a protective filter (and saved a lens that way once!).
Buzz
You need to get a thin filter no matter what the cost. Â You are spending an awful lot of money to get a very wide angle lens and you don’t want to cripple that lens’ ability to give you the shot you need at the widest angle. Â I have no vignetting issues with the Nikon Circ-Pol on the 12-24mm, and I’ve now used that setup very extensively since I bought it. Â I do have serious vignetting with my Singh-Ray GND filter and the Cokin P mount, as is natural with that much stuff going on in front of the lens. Â I’ll tell you, it is very annoying to realize I can’t get to 12mm (or even 14mm) when I want to.
Zach
PS Edit (*wide* angle not “side” angle.
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