{"id":739,"date":"2006-03-03T22:30:16","date_gmt":"2006-03-03T22:30:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/2006\/03\/03\/article_spey_fishing_for_trout\/"},"modified":"2006-03-03T22:30:16","modified_gmt":"2006-03-03T22:30:16","slug":"article_spey_fishing_for_trout","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/2006\/03\/03\/article_spey_fishing_for_trout\/","title":{"rendered":"Article: Spey Fishing for Trout"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
<\/p>\n
Trout speys can handle large fish on light tippet.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Spey Fishing for Trout<\/big><\/big><\/strong>
\nBy Zach Matthews
\nFirst Published January 29, 2005<\/em><\/p>\n

You have probably heard about it by now; you may even have seen it coming
\nto your area. Spey. What is it? Why is it on a trout stream? Who came up with
\nsuch a bizarre name? The development of Spey fishing began in Scotland, but
\nchances are it came to your area through the American Northwest. The style
\nis named for the River Spey, which begins in the Scottish Highlands and meanders
\nits way north east to its mouth in the Moray Firth, emptying into the North
\nSea.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n

The river is broad, the salmon in it are strong, and rods and styles developed
\nto match those conditions. Typical rods in use on those waters are 15 to 18
\nfeet long, rated for a #10 line, and two-handed. Traditional fishing demands
\nthe angler stream wet flies “on the dangle” through the current, hoping to
\nentice a salmon to bite during its spawning run. How did such a muscular style
\nof fishing ever come to be used on trout streams? The answer lies in America.
\nIn the second half of the Twentieth Century, anglers on both shores of the
\nNorth American continent began using two-handed rods for their salmon fishing.
\nAt first, styles mimicked the Scottish roots: flies were dangled, rods were
\nslow, the cast graceful. <\/p>\n

Over time, American and Canadian pioneers began adapting the newer, lighter,
\ngraphite rods to spey use. And with that development, the possibility of a
\ntrout spey became a reality.Over time, American and Canadian pioneers began
\nadapting the newer, lighter, graphite rods to spey use. And with that development,
\nthe possibility of a trout spey became a reality. <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n
Always wrap your joints!<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Technically, the term ‘spey’ is all wrong. Scots will point out
\nthat the two-handed style is in use on many rivers, including the Dee, the
\nTweed, and all over the world. “Spey,” they maintain, is a style
\nof casting, not a type of rod. However, language being what language is, the
\nname stuck, and if you look today you will find “spey” rods, reels,
\nand lines. <\/p>\n

For the purposes of most American trout fishing, no spey rod above a #7 is
\nlight enough. The best (and only) trout speys on the market tend to be from
\na #5 to a #7, 12’ to 14’ long, with a soft tip and a rather traditional
\naction. When choosing a trout spey, look for a rod with the proper length
\nof cork on both upper and lower grips, preferably at least 6” below
\nand 10” above. This will allow you to fit the rod to your grip and will
\nhelp in finding a reel to balance without breaking the bank on a billfish
\nreel. Balance is crucial in spey casting: be sure your reel is heavy enough
\nand has enough capacity to contain at least a #10 line before attempting to
\npurchase a spey line. For most purposes, Rio’s 5\/6 Windcutter is an
\nexcellent beginner’s option, which will continue to serve just fine
\nas you progress.<\/p>\n

Casting a spey rod is a wonderful, eye-opening experience. However, it is
\nnot something you can pick up in one session, even for a talented one-handed
\ncaster. Purchase Simon Gawesworth’s new book, “Spey Casting,”
\nor watch one of the Rio International Spey fishing videos. For the purposes
\nof trout fishing, where one generally can wade, a combination of standard
\noverhead casts, roll casts, and switch casts will do the trick, although the
\nsnake roll is a cast every angler should possess the ability to do. <\/p>\n

A spey rod, even a light trout spey, is substantially more powerful than
\na one handed rod of like weight. Surprisingly, spey rods will protect tippet
\nas light as 6x, although it is more important that fly size be correctly matched
\nto tippet size with a spey rod due to the torque and power of the fly coming
\noff the water. Where you might have gotten away with a #6 wooly on 6x tippet
\nfor one handed fishing, count on losing some flies with the spey if you mismatch.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n
Even trout speys require big reels.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Rigging Up<\/strong><\/p>\n

Assuming a 13’ 5\/6\/7 weight spey, a word about line selection and leaders.
\nFirst, spey lines have only recently reached industry standardization. European
\nmakers like Hardy have traditionally adhered to the old AFTMA standards, which
\nare measured off the front 30’ of line. Hardy’s Mach I, accordingly,
\nis rated an 8\/9 even though it is an appropriate match for a 5\/6 trout spey.
\nAmerican makers like Rio do a better job of matching line to rod weight, but
\nappearances can still be deceptive. Match the line to the job you want it
\nto do. A 6\/7 Midspey, Rio’s middle length spey line, is a poor overhead
\ncasting line, even for a powerful caster, because it is intended for traditional
\nspey casts. The Midspey head weighs as much as some billfish lines, and overhead
\ncasting all of it can (and, I learned, will) snap a light trout spey. Pay
\nattention to the grain weights of a line and compare around before buying.
\nFor most purposes, the 5\/6 Windcutter is a good place to start. Don’t
\nworry about buying the tips kit for trout fishing, a floating line is sufficient.<\/p>\n

The leader should be at least the length of the rod. For my 13’ rod,
\nI typically choose a 12’ 5x leader, and I add 3’ of 6x fluorocarbon
\ntippet. For nymphing fluorocarbon tippet is a good choice – it has a
\nhigher specific density than monofilament and will sink faster, keeping your
\nleader from bowing as much in the water column. Strike indicators are a necessity.
\nChoose an indicator that does not rely on being dry to float. Yarn is a poor
\nchoice, because so many of the spey casts leave the line on the water, dragging
\nit through the film, and yarn will swamp. Palsa foam floats work for a few
\ncasts, but eventually they torque off the leader under the strain of spey
\nfishing. I choose to use snap-on or toothpick indicators. On most trout waters
\nappropriate for spey fishing, a larger indicator is just fine. <\/p>\n

Where to use it?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trout spey water can be hard to spot. Some locations are easy: Rim Shoals
\non the White River in Arkansas is a 100 to 300 yard wide, one to four foot
\ndeep shoal at low water – classic spey water. However, the Clinch River
\nin Tennessee, which flows through the oldest TVA dam in the country near Norris,
\nis also excellent spey water, despite its low gradient and slow current. Trout
\nspeys are appropriate anywhere a long drift is desirable, where water is deep
\nenough to rig an indicator and nymph, or where current means mending and reaching
\nthe depths within 40’ is practically impossible. Many rivers in the
\ncountry are appropriate for trout speys, even in the East.<\/p>\n

Fishing<\/strong><\/p>\n

Indicator nymphing with a trout spey can be a real joy. You have a number
\nof options. Most seams can be approached from below, above, or the side, depending
\non water conditions. When you locate your foam line or current seam and spot
\nyour approach, you can choose which tactic best suits your needs. When approaching
\na seam from above, try carrying along a stripping basket and pulling 100’
\nor so of line into it before beginning the drift. (Yes, I said 100’.)
\nBegin with a Czech nymphing style, reaching the nymph above you briefly to
\nallow it to sink below its indicator. Rig your indicator so that the nymph
\nbounces along the bottom but hangs up as little as possible. I choose to weight
\nmost of my leaders about a foot above the fly. When the nymph reaches the
\nend of the Czech swing, lower your rod while feeding line. The spey rod is
\na significant lever, and it will give you plenty of drop time to get your
\nline flowing smoothly. Keeping the rod tip close to the water, play line out
\nof the basket while swishing the rod side to side to feed line. Mend line
\nas needed with a left or right handed soft throw to keep your fly in the seam.
\nBe prepared- takes can come at any point, and on a long drift it is difficult
\nto read water. Concentrate on avoiding drag on the indicator and trust the
\nweight on your leader to keep your fly bouncing smoothly.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n
The author relaxs with his spey rod.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

What if you need to approach the same seam from the side? Conditions can
\ndictate many of the situations we face on the river, and I know we have all
\nbeen unable to reach that special spot. Try a stripping basket again. Pull
\nout about 80-100’ of line and make an overhead cast upstream, aiming
\nfor the back of a rock or some structure if possible. Shoot line out of the
\nbasket until your fly turns over, then lower your rod tip. As the line comes
\nback to you, strip into the basket so as never to create a loop at your feet.
\nHopefully you will get a take, and if you do, just raise your tip. The fish
\nwill be facing away from you and the hook should set itself. A little strip
\nstrike is also appropriate. When the line comes by your feet, switch to the
\nCzech style again, dapping the line through your position and down the other
\nside, then begin feeding line back out of the basket until you reach the end
\nof your drift. Leave your fly on the dangle for a moment; takes often come
\nas the fly rises.<\/p>\n

When approaching the seam from below, simply apply the first part of the
\nmethod above, again stripping line back into your basket and keeping just
\nenough tension to avoid drag and still set hooks.<\/p>\n

Other methods of spey fishing for trout include streamers, of course, as
\nwell as dry flies swung through the current. If you intend to do any dry fly
\nfishing choose spun deer-hair flies or very heavily hackled strong water flies.
\nApply floatant liberally. <\/p>\n

Rods and Reels<\/strong><\/p>\n

The current rod and reel market for trout speys is surprisingly slim. Sage
\nmakes a 12’ 5 weight in their traditional series, and it is probably
\nthe top of the market, but you will pay for it. For people used to one handed
\nprices, spey equipment can carry some serious sticker shock. A $750 spey rod,
\nwith a $500 reel of appropriate size, and a $75 spey line can add up. Other
\noptions are available, however. A Japanese company called CND owned by former
\nDaiwa-UK rod designer Nobuo Nodera makes excellent, cheaper speys. Their Expert
\nseries 13’ 6\/7 throws a 5\/6 Windcutter nicely and sports appropriate
\ncork, a decent reel seat, especially nice internal ferrules, and quality wraps.
\nCND emphasizes cork, blank, and ferrules more than most companies. A jewelry-bedecked
\ntrout spey does not currently exist. Another option is Temple Fork Outfitters
\nrods. TFO offers a 12’6” 6 weight which will handle the Windcutter
\n5\/6, but this rod is lighter and faster than the CND. If you intend to try
\na lot of nighttime overhead casting, or boat angling, the TFO would be a good
\nchoice. Both the CND and the TFO are under $300. Most reels capable of holding
\na #10 WF line are appropriate for trout speys. Ross’s Canyon Big Game
\n4 will hold a Windcutter 5\/6, as will Redington’s Brakewater and Teton’s
\nbig game offerings. Because this is, after all, a trout reel, a killer drag
\nis not required. <\/p>\n

Spey Differences<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n
An aerial view of the River Spey, where it all started.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Spey rods carry some odd traditions, and it would be a shame to turn away
\nfrom a rod just because you didn’t know why certain choices were made.
\nMost traditional speys have an insert-style tip top, like a casting rod.Most
\ntraditional speys are downlocking, and they frequently carry a large metal
\nand rubber fighting butt. Typical spey handle designs are full wells both
\non top and on bottom. <\/p>\n

Whenever you fish a spey rod, you should “tape your joints.”
\nUse high-quality electrical tape and lay a strip down one side of the blank,
\nover the ferrule point, then down the other, then wrap the tape in a circular
\npattern up over your existing tape. Do this for every joint. The ferrule that
\nloosens is the ferrule that explodes. Also use paraffin wax on the male end
\nof all rods before inserting, and check frequently to make sure the ferrules
\nare clean. If your wax becomes dirty, use a hairdryer and some cotton swabs
\nto clean both male and female, then reapply wax. I will not cast a spey rod
\nthat has not been taped.<\/p>\n

Also, as I stated before, points of balance are very important. If you find
\nyour reel is just too light to bring the balance point under your top hand,
\nwith a fishing amount of line out, you should consider applying lead tape
\ndirectly on the arbor, under the backing, of your reel, until the rod balances.
\nThere is nothing more tiring than swinging an imbalanced spey rod all day.<\/p>\n

Spey Lines<\/strong><\/p>\n

Spey lines largely control spey casts. Most spey lines are a variant of the
\nWulff Triangle taper (or vice versa). Because a standard spey cast involves
\nforming a D loop of line from the middle of the line and throwing it into
\nthe air, most of the weight of the spey line must be at that middle point.
\nAccordingly, most spey lines taper gradually almost all the way from the back
\nof the head, where they are very thick, to the front. Custom spey lines can
\nbe constructed out of different sizes of component lines using knotless splices,
\nbut thankfully most trout fishing will not require such complex maneuvers.\n<\/p>\n

Spey lines are not widely available in all shops. A few online resources
\nfor spey equipment include the Red Shed Spey Shop in Idaho, www.redshedflyshop.com,
\nand Dana Sturn’s Spey Pages, www.speypages.com. Members of the spey
\nfishing fraternity in the Pacific Northwest are the best source of information
\nabout line development and custom spliced lines, and many of those original
\npioneers today serve as rod and line designers for the major manufacturers.
\nJim Vincent of Rio Line Company got his start designing spey lines, among
\nother things.<\/p>\n

Differences in Trout Spey Approach<\/strong><\/p>\n

The article you just read contains some key differences in my approach to
\ntrout spey fishing. Most spey fishers do not rely on stripping baskets except
\nfor ocean use, because most spey fishers even today swing a set amount of
\nline in the current. The advantages of using the spey rod for trout largely
\nare bound up in the ability to control line at a distance, and the best way
\nto do that is to be able to control a variable amount of line at your feet.
\nLetting a 50’ loop of line dangle downstream while you attempt the Czech
\nNymph pass portion of the drift described above would spook every fish in
\nthe lower drift. Instead, construct or purchase a stripping basket and learn
\nto use it. L.L. Bean’s $19 beauty is the best deal on the market, and
\nI highly recommend it.<\/p>\n

Also, many traditional spey fishers will object to the use of the two-handed
\nrod for dead-drift indicator nymphing. Let them. The method is more effective
\nthan single-handed nymphing and is highly fun. Give it a try.<\/p>\n

For more information about trout spey fishing, check out the Bulletin
\nBoard<\/a>.<\/p>\n

  <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Trout speys can handle large fish on light tippet. Spey Fishing for Trout By Zach Matthews First Published January 29, 2005 You have probably heard about it by now; you may even have seen it coming to your area. Spey. What is it? Why is it on a trout stream? …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-739","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-articles","column","onecol","has-thumbnail"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/files\/2013\/01\/spey11.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/739","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=739"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/739\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1353"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=739"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=739"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.itinerantangler.com\/blog\/podcasts\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=739"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}