I want a record of this
- This topic has 14 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated Nov 29, 2005 at 2:37 pm by
.
-
Posts
-
Hey guys-
I’ve been critical of Winston for going to much cheaper components with the BIIx, which I don’ t like very much. This rod and the recent throwdown over the bamboo guys has convinced me the ethic and image I was proudly buying in to really does have its roots in the real world. I’m disappointed in Big Green and will probably be buying Scott rods until they too make some catatrophic mistake.
Just for the record, here are some images of quality control problems at Winston from another board:
Zach
I agree that the graphite spacer on the BIIx rods look cheap and I always thought that when I was up for another premium rod that I’d order mine with the wood insert even if there was an extra charge.
C’mon now, Zach… in all fairness it should be noted that you can get either the carbon fiber reel seat OR the wood with nickel-silver at the base price. I opted for the graphite simply because I personally thought ‘form follows function’ with that light of a rod. Winston went to great pains to make sure the BIIx series were some of the lightest rods on the planet and many of us opted for the lighter seat because of that.
As for the two pictures of mine that you posted, that DOES indeed peeve me off! There was no way before the current buffoon started running the company (to the ground?) that rods like that would leave Twin Bridges.
I do not blame those who built the rods as much as I blame the current management (remember ‘the buck stops here’?)
It is MANAGEMENT who provides an atmosphere for perfection. If they have sped up production to the point of compromise the fault lies clearly with them!That said, I will more than likely but more Winston’s unless this downward spiral continues or until I get another that has shabby workmanship OR, and this is very possible, I fall in love with that Scott G2 when I finally get my mitts on one!
Build them yourself. It’s cheaper, you will use better quality components, and you can build them to suit your own style. I really like to build mine with the Fuji Titanium SiC fly guides. You can’t come close to that with a factory rod.
Hey BD, welcome!
I think the pic points out that the reel seat used is one that cost about $1 to a company like Winston. They are $7 where I buy my supplies. The label or butt cap looks like it’s not aligned right also. Not sure but I think this rod sells for over $500.
I guess I only answered part of your question.
A lot of the things that are important to me you really can’t see on a rod anyway. Things like what type of arbor was used to fill the space between the reel seat and the blank. Masking tape does a poor job of transmitting vibration but is still considered a viable option by many builders. What type of adhesive was used to glue the seat in place? There are products out there now that can be removed with a little work. The clear 5 and 20 min epoxy is almost impossible to remove, rod bond works much better. Was the cork sealed? Most likely not if it’s a factory rod. Were the guide feet prepped? This can cause blank failure if not done properly.
Things I notice on the outside are the wraps of course. Those damned cheap chromed snake guides that eat fly line! The finish,, is it too thick, football shaped, sloppy, etc. I like a minimal amount of epoxy that extends very slightly beyond the wraps. What kind of winding check was used. If you paid $500 for the rod it better have a nice metal one. Is the blank straight! Most all blanks have some curve, some have a lot of curve and that’s bad. This can be hard to see once the guidesfinish has been applied. Where is the spine located. I like mine up but everybody has an opinion on where it should be. I build em the way I like em but the main thing is that it isn’t on the right or left. Also I like to use what is called a Forhan locking wrap on all single footed guides. This is several wraps around the guide and the blank that prevent the guide from ever being pulled out. Tests have shown guide failure before the guide will come loose from the blank.
I have looked at several high end factory rods and I think you get pretty good quality with most of them. Orvis and Sage seem to stand out the most when I think of a nice well put together factory rod. I hate to say it but some Loomis rods I have seen had some obvious flaws that shouldn’t be on a $500 rod, mainly sloppy wraps. Let me follow that up with, I LOVE G Loomis blanks.
Hey BD, welcome!
I think the pic points out that the reel seat used is one that cost about $1 to a company like Winston.An attempt at weight reduction, but weight is only part of what makes a great fly rod.For me, it’s about the action… first and foremost. You can put a platinum and ivory reel seat with a ruby stripping guide on any rod, but if the blank is a wanker all you have is a fancy wanker!
More things to look for are the number of guides (quick and easy way to cut costs), hardware that works (a reel seat should actually HOLD a reel) and the ferrules should hold the sections together firmly yet still allow disassembly!), a fair warranty and good, overall workanship.
You can learn a lot by looking closely at different rods in different price points.
You’re lucky in getting into this rapid hobby now, the middle-of-the-road rods now were the cream of the crop a few short years ago.* on both of the rods above, the wraps and epoxy work was perfect. It almost seems they got so lost in the detail they forgot the bigger picture!* ::)
Another very unusual feature of that rod was the built-in metronome. At the stop of every cast the rod clicked. We ran through all of the usual suspects… from tightening the reel seat to casting with no reel at all. I think we figured it was something in the lower ferrule.
Personally, I’m not so sure they improved the classic ‘G’ with this rod. It didn’t strike me at all like a classic, smooth casting ‘G’ of old. I can’t quite figure out what Scott had in mind with it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.