More long lens questions.

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  • #7637

    These are straight out of the camera resized to 800×800 jpg. I shot them with a Sigma 5.6 400mm telemacro APO lens, no filter in a moving boat with a 4 stroke outboard running (heavy vibration), no tripod. I’m sure I can PS these and crop them from the original size and come up with some decent shots but I’m left wondering if I’m going to have to drop $3000 to get a lens that can produce the results I’m looking for. I know I can stage shots  and use a tripod for crisper pics but I’m looking for an on the fly hand held system that can be set up in a moments notice. Do you guys think the focus motor on my A100 could even handle a highspeed lens?

    I also have a question about polarizer’s and filters.

    What filter is best for getting rid of atmospheric haze?

    And

    The lens shade makes adjusting a Pol filter impossible for one and doing long shots freehand I want all the light I can get. Is this way of thinking right or would my results look better had I used a pol?


    #64034
    mike j
    Member

    You’ll be hard pressed to find any nature photographer shooting out of a moving boat with a motor running that would get a super crisp shot with even the best gear…

    #64035
    mike j
    Member

    You’ll be hard pressed to find any nature photographer shooting out of a moving boat with a motor running that would get a super crisp shot with even the best gear…

    #64036
    Eric DeWitt
    Member

    Labrati has it right.

    #64037
    mike j
    Member

    shot with a similar 400 5.6.. hand-held…  not my favorite shot… by a LOOONNNGGG shot… but…   with an appropriate stalk… and the right lighting the little 400’s can do pretty well…

    #64038

    Thanks for the response. I didn’t realize the HSM’s operated like that. I’m also glad to hear that my results are not just related to equipment.

    Eric it’s rare that I would go with just a camera and no fishing rod… Sure as I do the fish would be busting everywhere and I’d have nothing to throw at them.

    Like everything else I’ve learned I’m picking everything up the hard way by trial and error and help from folks like we have here so thanks again.
    It sure would be fun to spend some time with a real nature photog.

    #64039
    anonymous
    Member

    Not that

    #64040
    Avatar photoJohn Bennett
    Member

    Sorry Im late Mike, just got back from a week off.

    First
    Shooting from a boat:
    It would be best to have a len with VR (nikon) or IS (Canon). The reality is your not going to get a long lens with it, without dropping a few G. Bottom line, the more stable your boat, the less shutter speed you need. Depending on the lens IS/VR can help offset 2 or 3 stops.
    Having shot from within everythng but a Kayak my favorite is my toon.
    Its simply that much more stable but its alot slower point A to point B than anything else.

    Fast or faster glass.
    With long lenses I don’t know how much of an advantage they truly are due to compression and effective DoF. Sure, when your SS is borderline sufficient to remove shake or eliminate motion blur having the option the open the lens a bit more is great. The reality or trade off is your dof will be insufficent plus faster glass = alot more weight. Much as I dream about one day owning a 500 f4 L I know without any shadow of a doubt which lens Id be using from my boats. The 400.

    How much SS do you need?
    Ultimately it depends on how well you can handhold a 300mm or 400mm w/0 shake and how stable your platform is.

    Canon 100-400 L ( 2 stop IS )
    f8.0
    1/250th

    F7.1
    1/320th

    Tripod vs Monopod.
    Both have their merits and I use both. Which I use and when, depends on a few variables.

    As Will mentioned I also use a Bushhawk. Its my mount of choice 95% of the time when I’m out chasing Wildlife. Its not as good (stable) as Monopod and certainly not as good as a Tri but what you give up you gain back in terms of mobility (tracking moving subjects), weight, portability as in walking through deep snow snow or thick brush portability. Does make it as close to an all in one, ready to go support system your goint to get. Love it.
    Bushhawk

    Not getting results you want.
    Can mean alot of things 🙂 From just not being used to long lenses, to needing to get closer. One of the toughest aspects to wildlife photography is that you are in control of so little. The chance of a lifetime can be “ruined” by having to swing 180 degrees and shoot into the sun or simply finding a specimen you really want but it being in a bad spot with busy/cluttered backgrounds or hydo lines present…..whatever.

    And you can never have enough reach.

    The more homework you do “generally” speaking the more you can control. Learn some of their habits ( Ive found a spot where a couple Osprey regularily go fishing thats within reach)..To get that 1 shot of an Osprey crashing into the water without resorting to baiting them I may need to camp out for a few days. I cant control the when, the weather or even the light. I do know the “where” and can position myself as to get the background and light for the time of day I want. I may come home empty to….Wont be the first time thats happened.


    To get those kinds of shots I camp about 75 feet from on of their nest.

    Coyotes?
    I tried all last winter to get close to one…Still skunked.
    A blind depending on your target species will do way more for you than any 2, 3, or 6 grand lens.

    Full camo inlcuding at times face mask.
    I wear that to when chasing Whitetails, Coyotes, Turkey and the like.
    I’m out before sunup and in position before they arrive. One I dont spook them and two I increase the odds of getting favorable light (frontlight) by choosing my spot where I know they frequent.

    Other times I stalk them when need be

    Work on the things you can control and then if your still not getting results think about a new lens. Upgrades are expensive.
    You can never have enoug reach, no matter how much you have…Alot of species simply arent tolerant of humans and whose comfort zones are small.

    Filters.
    I dont bother with a UV unless Im at great risk of wind blown grit (beach). Its just 1 more layer of glass. Nothing Im aware of will take care of atmosperic haze as you get with long lenses.

    CPs.
    I use one on my 400 only rarely. One they tend to take 2 stops of light and even in good light you can rarely afford that kind of hit. Bu when I do, I dont bother using the hood. One the CP will cut glare (flare) and 2 it take the place of the hood with regards to protecting the frm element from a ding or scratch.

    #64041

    Thanks for the reply John You answered my questions as well as I could have expected. BTW I cut and paste a lot of your advice and tips from this board. You’re a real asset to the place and thanks again for the time and patience you give us wannabes.

    #64042
    Avatar photoJohn Bennett
    Member

    Your welcome.
    Just remember I’m a “wanna be” myself and nothing more at this point.

    #64043
    Aaron Otto
    Member

    Mike – I was reading and rereading through this post and I couldn’t help, but notice the similarity in approach of wild animals for photography purposes and Bow Hunting. People have discussed blinds, camo and stalking.  Now by no means do I have a tenth of the skills behind glass as the guys above, but I do have a lot of years growing up in Minnesota hunting Whitetails via the tactics mentioned above.  Now I don’t have long glass, what I do most my shooting with is a 2.8 vr 200mm. Here are the three things I try and do when sneaking up on animals. ( I hope this makes sense).
    1. Come from downwind.
    2. Use Cover and Concealment to mask my movements
    3. Never take more than four steps in a row.

    The above three are shot with the 200 all the way out this below shot was taken with a 50m, to give you perspective of how close I got to this animal, before he figured out we were there. I apologize for the poor quality, I’m still figuring out the hand hold.

    #64044
    Avatar photoJohn Bennett
    Member

    Just to confirm what Aaron has said.

    I use alot of woodcraft I’ve learned myself over the years, and steal alot of pages from hunters and hunting techniques. Bow hunting is about as accurate an anology as there is. When I first got it my mind last fall/winter to try and locate and subsequently record Coyotes.

    It was Coyote hunters I approached for tips on locating, stalking, calling and while I havent resorted to it yet baiting and herding.

    The most common tip was to locate a pack (done), visit a butcher, colect some scraps, place in bucket with water, allow to freeze over night. Place bucket around 4am and wait 🙂

    I spent month trying to learn how to use calls. The only thing I’ve thus far mastered is scaring the crap out our Basenji. All I need to do now is pick up the call and she bolts to another part of the house trembling in terror
    ;D

    #64045
    Aaron Otto
    Member

    Now when I shot this one, it was one scary stalk with my Black Berry camera ….Just Kidding, he was at a Safari park.

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