A couple questions on drift boats.

Blog Forums Fly Fishing A couple questions on drift boats.

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  • #5921
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    I’m about to start building one in a couple weeks. Any thoughts on what you guys like in drift boat as far as features. Also Kevlar or fiberglass outer hull. I’m thinking I can roll with glass. After the canoes, I figure a drift boat will a good change.

    #52156
    Avatar photoSteve K.
    Member

    Peter,

    What will be the dimensions? I’d suggest 16 foot and at least 52″ wide amidships. You can then carry three folks comfortably.

    #52157
    John Stanley
    Member

    A rower’s seat that has some adjustability is a plus.

    #52158
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    As far as size goes, I had the traditional 16’x48″ in mind. I had planned on making adjustable foot braces as well. I hadn’t thought about adjustable rower’s seat but that would be pretty cool and help with balance depending on rather there are two or three people in the boat.

    I hadn’t delved too far into the anchor set ups, any suggestions?

    #52159

    Not sure how far you are into the process, but you should read Fletcher’s “Drift Boats and River Dories.” Also hang out on the drift boat builders forum at http://www.montana-riverboats.com/phorum/list.php?3. Other important sites are http://www.montana-riverboats.com and Jason Cajune’s Montana Boat Builders (http://cajuneboats.squarespace.com/).

    Hull design is the most complex question in the process. Guys spend years experimenting with dimensions and most especially rocker. depending on the what you’re going to carry, where you’ll use the boat and how you will out of it. Keep in mind that traditional drift boats were never designed to have a fisherman in front and another in back. Hull designs were based on having two people side-by-side on a bench seat in front. So mind your rocker if you plan to use it differently.

    You didn’t say whether you were going framed or stitch-and-glue? Definitely you’ll want an adjustable rower seat, plus a couple of different oar lock positions and adjustable foot brace. Otherwise you’ll end up being a rowing slave for your buddies.

    Anchor set ups are all over the place. Stay away from the Clackacraft type floor stomp releases in a wooden boat. And start thinking about rod storage now. That was my mistake. I’ve been trying to resolve it for five years!

    Here are a couple pics of my boat. It’s a Montana Boat Builder’s 16′ Guide design by Jason Cajune. I built it in 06. Note the modification of rear area to accommodate my Lab who can’t row but is a great companion.

    #52160

    Hey Peter,

    I’d look more into a driftboat “skiff” style design.  I think it would have more appeal down in the Southeast.

    I run a Native Driftboat for my freshwater guide service in Florida.  There aren’t many driftboats in Florida but it work surprisingly well in the small lakes and ponds.  I also float a couple rivers but they’re almost two hours away from the shop and put-in and take outs are spaced pretty far apart so it’s only full day trips.

    My boat is 14′ x 48″ and it’s a little tight when I have two big guys with me.

    As for rod storage, it’s been an issue for me as well as the Native doesn’t have anything designed for it.  My best fix so far has been a 2 piece double rod holder.  That way I can have clients fishing two rods and two extra’s packed away.

    I’d be very interested in what you come up with.

    #52161
    Ronnie Moore
    Member

    That’s a good looking boat Michael.

    #52162

    I would second Craig’s suggestion of a skiff design. If you aren’t doing bigger water a skiff with an open floor design is great. We use a Montana Boat Builders skiff on the Delaware with two or three anglers and it’s great. It draws less water than a drift boat and with the open design rod storage along the side decks is easy.

    #52163
    Zach Matthews
    The Itinerant Angler

    Are you going wood understructure with a Kevlar or Fiberglass exterior coating, or are you talking about laying the whole thing up in Kevlar?

    #52164
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    Mr. Phillippe, that is a beautiful boat. I have seen Jason’s boats before and I think the design on the interior of the boats is amazing. I had actually looked at the guide design like you have. I have to say, you did an outstanding job. Thanks for the advice on anchors and rod holders.

    Zach, the boat would be a wooden boat. Also in reference to the thought on using kevlar, I was wondering if the impact resistance was worth the cost. I am aware that the epoxy is what takes the abuse. My canoes that I build a fiber glassed inside and out. So I would venture to say that I am fairly familiar with the process.

    Another thing I do have to agree with on the Cajune boats, the use of line-x on the bottom of the hull. When you spend that much time on a boat seeing that hull scratched up hurts.

    One of the things I was looking at the other day was that the idea that the basic drift boat hasn’t changed since the 40’s. Rather that’s true or not I’m not sure. I do want to build a drift boat and give it a sort of Southern style. So we’ll have to see how that goes.

    #52165

    Peter – When I launched my boat the bottom was 10% graphite in epoxy. That’s a cheap and lighter alternative. My buddy built the MBB skiff and had Linex applied to the bottom. After 5 seasons chines were worn and my buddy’s looked new. Last September I coughed up the $500 (like another 500 on top of $6500 I already have in it in materials alone is a big deal!) and had the Linex applied. It added about 60 lbs we think. Anyway the boat actually handles differently – a little better track perhaps. It does draw another inch of water also which can mean more dragging on the Delaware in low water. But it should be maintenance free now – unless I hit a BIG rock.

    #52166

    BTW, Zach, you should look at Jason Cajune’s skiff designs. He had a hull design that draws very little water, has good rod storage, and three can easily fish from it if you can’t get out to wade.

    #52167
    Zach Matthews
    The Itinerant Angler

    The problem I have always heard with LineX is that it grabs rocks.

    #52168
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    The guys that do the line-x in Montgomery do a smooth coat of line-x that is really slick. I’m waiting to try it out on this drift boat. All and all, I’m pretty stoked. Right now however I have about a week or two left on my newest canoe that will go on display when it’s done.

    I’m hoping to make the boat as light as possible and still keep the strength I need. I’m thinking that the line-x will supply that extra strength.

    #52169

    Zach, My son put the vacuum bag shoe on his wooden boat for the reason you state. And I do have that concern for low water times. I haven’t seen his yet, but I will when I’m in Missoula fishing next week. I’ll let you know after I see it.

    #52170
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    Can’t hurt anyway though.

    #52171
    Avatar photoSteve K.
    Member

    I have the plastic shoe on my woodie and it was the best way to go for me. Fear no rock 🙂

    #52172
    Avatar photoPeter E.
    Member

    Hells yeah! How does one go about getting one of these amazing pieces of footwear?

    #52173
    Zach Matthews
    The Itinerant Angler

    Steve –

    Toccoa?

    Zach

    #52174
    Avatar photoSteve K.
    Member

    Si’ Senor.

    Launching just prior to sunrise so we can make it to Curtis Switch by sunset.

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